2.3L ('83-'97) 93 ranger ac issue


Jfam4l


U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Mar 4, 2026
Messages
3
Points
1
City
Alamogordo
State - Country
NM - USA
Vehicle Year
1993
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Stock
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
18” off-road tires
Hello guys I’m wondering if anyone can help me here . I have changed out my old r12 condenser, compressor,ac lines and accumulator as well as the low side cycle switch as well as the relay. I also bought an auxiliary fan to cool the condenser… I can leave it idling for about 3 hours and the refrigerant doesn’t vent through the high side relief valve but as soon as I go for a 30 minute drive then idle for about 3-5 mins the relief valve vents all the refrigerant, I caught it one time with the gauges connected and it vented at 300psi. I got all my parts from rock auto with the brand called UAC and of course this year doesn’t come with a high side pressure switch only the valve… I notice that the pressure valve is a short bronze valve on my new ac lines that “according to online” supposedly uses r12 Freon. Would me getting the r134a relief valve from a 1994 ranger prevent my valve from venting
 
I'm kind of confused. It sounds like you replaced all your A/C components like-for-like, retaining R12. So no, you shouldn't mix in an R134a relief valve. Generally, the appropriate response to venting pressure isn't to increase the pop-off pressure of the relief valve. Is the appropriate response to tripping breakers to install a bigger breaker on the same wire?

You need to figure out why you're over pressure. If you replaced the entire system, the options are bad parts, overcharge (refrigerant or oil), or undercooling (in spite of your aux fan).

If you spray mist the condenser with water as soon as you park, does it still vent?
 
I'm kind of confused. It sounds like you replaced all your A/C components like-for-like, retaining R12. So no, you shouldn't mix in an R134a relief valve. Generally, the appropriate response to venting pressure isn't to increase the pop-off pressure of the relief valve. Is the appropriate response to tripping breakers to install a bigger breaker on the same wire?

You need to figure out why you're over pressure. If you replaced the entire system, the options are bad parts, overcharge (refrigerant or oil), or undercooling (in spite of your aux fan).

If you spray mist the condenser with water as soon as you park, does it still vent?
When I turn on the truck and leave it idling for 3 hours without driving, it did lower the pressure to 125 when spraying the condenser. when idling without spraying the condenser it usually sits at 150. but the issue is when I go for a 30 minute drive then stop and idle for 5 minutes it raises up to 300 which I’m assuming triggers the r12 rated safety valve… everything in the system is rated for R134a I don’t know if the UAC Ac line that I got from rock auto has the r12 relief valve or R134a which is causing the Freon to vent at 300psi. Or if it can be something else causing it . I bought an auxiliary fan to help as well which is does, but I’m assuming it’s normal for R134a to reach 300psi? But to be honest I don’t know too much about A/c system…. but I made sure I followed the instructions to install all these components.
 
Okay, so you're not using R12, but converted to R134a? Then yeah, it's a problem if you still have an R12 line. It's not night-and-day, but R134a runs higher pressures than R12. An R134a system isn't venting at 300. The high-pressure cutoff doesn't open until over 400.

I would not try to replace the brass valve; I would replace the entire line and install the high-pressure cutoff switch as well. It just runs in series with the low-pressure cutoff.
 
Okay I will try that and see how it goes
 

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