SOOOooo... ALL aftermarket RADIATORS are the auto-trans version, zero M/T specific models?

[fixizin]

My 27-year-old rad has developed a crack in the plastic portion, passenger side... (possibly related to my leak-fix???... https://www.therangerstation.com/fo...ver-coolant-leak-o.214554/page-4#post-2111182)

Anyway, in the short-term, gonna try to patch it with the 'High Heat' version of JB Weld, but I also know it's time for a new "heat-exchanger", but looking at the usual sources, it seems all anyone makes any more is the version with the ATF-cooler built-in... yes/no? If yes, does it fit without major surgery, and do I just cap-off the ATF ports?

Thanks in advance!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Just plug the ports and run it.

 

[JoshT]

That's probably all you'll be able to find. The primary difference between auto and manual is the trans cooler loop in one of the tanks. Easier and cheaper for the aftermarket to stock and provide one radiator to fit both applications.

Yes, the auto radiator should bolt right in. You don't even need to cap off the ATF ports, there is nothing in them and it's an isolated passage through the tank.

Biggest recommendation is to verify that the replacement they are trying to sell you either matches the existing core thickness or is thicker. I have seen where aftermarket has tried to replace a dual-core radiator with a single-core. Especially down her in the south, you don't want to be reducing the cooling capacity of the radiator. If your truck has a single core radiator now, I'd possibly even check to see if there is a dual-core version available.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I only plug them to keep debris from filling the cooler, holding moisture and rotting it out.

I live in a very dirty environment though, your mileage may vary.

 

[JoshT]

I only plug them to keep debris from filling the cooler, holding moisture and rotting it out.

I live in a very dirty environment though, your mileage may vary.

I'd probably cap them too. I think the ones I've bought came with caps. Just saying that it isn't necessary to have them capped to use the radiator.

 

[RobbieD]

I only plug them to keep debris from filling the cooler, holding moisture and rotting it out.

And the dirt dobbers (daubers), too.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I put an automatic transmission radiator in my manual transmission Bronco II because it was twice as thick as the manual transmission one. I needed the thinner fan shroud and an auto transmission lower rad hose because in my situation the lower hose port was a different angle. Cap the ports for the auto transmission cooler and run it.

 

[fixizin]

I put an automatic transmission radiator in my manual transmission Bronco II because it was twice as thick as the manual transmission one. I needed the thinner fan shroud and an auto transmission lower rad hose because in my situation the lower hose port was a different angle. Cap the ports for the auto transmission cooler and run it.

SHeeeet... I don't want to have to replace MULTIPLE related components. AFAICT I've got a single-core rad (HOW to verify?), and it's always kept up, even when 4-wheeling in the scorching deserts around Vegas and Phoenix, w/ AC on MAX blast, and during the daily grind here in S. Florida, i.e. NO REASON to "upgrade"... bone-stock for me!

PS: do I have to remove the tricky fan-clutch and fan for the rad-swap, or just the shroud?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

SHeeeet... I don't want to have to replace MULTIPLE related components. AFAICT I've got a single-core rad (HOW to verify?), and it's always kept up, even when 4-wheeling in the scorching deserts around Vegas and Phoenix, w/ AC on MAX blast, and during the daily grind here in S. Florida, i.e. NO REASON to "upgrade"... bone-stock for me!

Actually my latest move was to go to an electric fan, lol. The original move for me to the thicker rad was when I still had the 2.9 so I was desperate to try and keep it cool after having overheated and blew engines (yes, plural).