What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[01WHTRNGR]

Got my engine put back together and placed in the pickup. Ran out of daylight to attach the torque converter and flex plate. Anybody got tips for that? Not much room to work

 

[scotts90ranger]

Got my engine put back together and placed in the pickup. Ran out of daylight to attach the torque converter and flex plate. Anybody got tips for that? Not much room to work

If you pulled the torque converter with the engine you should definitely put that on the transmission before putting the engine in, there's a couple layers of splines and such that need to line up right for that to go back in.

Installing the flex plate should be simple, line up the bolts and torque to spec

When you mate the trans and engine line up the studs for the torque converter with the flex plate then turn the engine and tighten them one by one.

 

[pacstud]

Took apart the front suspension, gonna install new coils and to save money, rebuild my lower control arm...

With no press, gotta wait til tomorrow cause those bushings are not coming out. I have a little maddox ball press, but it's not big enough (or strong enough, I don't think) to press out the bushings. My friend with a press should make fast work of it tomorrow. The upper control arms I just got the whole arm, so that'll go quicker.

 

[01WHTRNGR]

If you pulled the torque converter with the engine you should definitely put that on the transmission before putting the engine in, there's a couple layers of splines and such that need to line up right for that to go back in.

Installing the flex plate should be simple, line up the bolts and torque to spec

When you mate the trans and engine line up the studs for the torque converter with the flex plate then turn the engine and tighten them one by one.

The torque converter is in the transmission. I’m just wondering how to get everything lined up

 

[97RangerXLT]

several months ago i posted about fixing the tailgate latch with amazon hardware. well the amazon hardware did not work worth a crap (could not get them to clamp on the rods) So last month I decided to see what Autozone had. paid 8 bucks for an assortment of 3 different linkage connectors, none of which worked.

So after about a total of 15 bucks of useless connectors, I went to the Ford Dealer (Don HInd Ford in Fishers, IN) and for a hair over 11 bucks i got 2 OEM linkage ends. and they work. so I now have a working tailgate handle again.

For anyone wanting to know:

Part number is E83Z*5421952*B

 

[scotts90ranger]

The torque converter is in the transmission. I’m just wondering how to get everything lined up

Ok good, for that just get it as lined up as you can while dropping the engine in and turn the crank while lining things up until the studs for the converter go in the flex plate.

 

[pacstud]

Don't know what to do with the rear LCA "sleeve" that is unique to that bushing. Any ideas?

 

[sgtsandman]

Don't know what to do with the rear LCA "sleeve" that is unique to that bushing. Any ideas?

I've not done just bushings on these. So I have no idea. Getting the bushing and sleeve out of anything can be a bear since they like to rust weld in place. If you have replacements on hand or know where you can get them and rely on them being the right part, you can try pressing the old one out, if you have a press or burn them out if all you have access to is a torch.

That is assuming you have to remove the sleeve. Some LCAs I have worked on in the past, you just get the old rubber out and push/press the new rubber in and bolt the arm back in place.

 

["Risky Bizness"]

It got a bath

 

[RobWigglezz]

I refinished the 3rd brake light lense to match the appearance of the other lenses. At some point in it's life the center bulb (brake light) got hot enough to melt the squishy rubber socket. Bulb still works so I just cleaned the connections and bent them in to be a tighter fit.

 

[pacstud]

I've not done just bushings on these. So I have no idea. Getting the bushing and sleeve out of anything can be a bear since they like to rust weld in place. If you have replacements on hand or know where you can get them and rely on them being the right part, you can try pressing the old one out, if you have a press or burn them out if all you have access to is a torch.

That is assuming you have to remove the sleeve. Some LCAs I have worked on in the past, you just get the old rubber out and push/press the new rubber in and bolt the arm back in place.

Yeah, if I have a do over I'd replace the whole arm, but I could only find arms of mid-quality. I can get the old bushings pressed out. If necessary, chisel/saw/etc to get them out. It's the end of the sleeve on the cam adjuster, I just don't know if I need to somehow recycle that. It does look like it is not one piece, so I'm hoping it's an end piece I can somehow separate from the old bushing.

It'll go to my friend's shop tomorrow, and he has a 20 ton press, so fingers crossed the arm holds up and they pop out.

It looks like it fits inside the sleeve, no?

 

[Betty White]

Several weeks back I removed and replaced both front control arms along w wheel alignment and 2 new front tires.

 

[Ab_Reed]

Drained the coolant, ran some coolant flush through it, drained that and put fresh coolant in. I did this previously just draining and flushing with a hose and a refill. But it definitely needed a flush too.

Next i need to figure out why my dome light stays on.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I refinished the 3rd brake light lense to match the appearance of the other lenses. At some point in it's life the center bulb (brake light) got hot enough to melt the squishy rubber socket. Bulb still works so I just cleaned the connections and bent them in to be a tighter fit.

Had the same thing happen a couple of years ago, except that the light quit working and a new bulb didn't fix the problem. Got a new Ford assembly and replaced the whole thing using an LED replacement bulb to reduce heat. No problems since.

I wonder if the bulb overheating the assembly is a cause of water leaks around the third brake light as some of you have had. The old light assembly definitely had a cracked lens from that.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yeah, if I have a do over I'd replace the whole arm, but I could only find arms of mid-quality. I can get the old bushings pressed out. If necessary, chisel/saw/etc to get them out. It's the end of the sleeve on the cam adjuster, I just don't know if I need to somehow recycle that. It does look like it is not one piece, so I'm hoping it's an end piece I can somehow separate from the old bushing.

It'll go to my friend's shop tomorrow, and he has a 20 ton press, so fingers crossed the arm holds up and they pop out.

It looks like it fits inside the sleeve, no?

View attachment 136269View attachment 136268View attachment 136270

Sometimes, the rubber is vulcanized into the sleeve and is meant to be pushed out as a unit, sometimes not. I depends on the engineer and what the manufacturer wants when they make the part. It is possible that the current bushing is just rust locked into the sleeve. Plus, years of being compressed will force the the bushing to be form fitted to the sleeve as well. If the replacements you have are just the rubber, then that would indicate that the bushing was meant to be replaced separately or the aftermarket found a work around to what was originally intended.

Also, if you do get the old bushing out and the new ones are a pretty snug, which they probably will be, silicone spray will help greatly in getting the new ones in. Not to say it won't be a fight. They very well could require a press to push them back in as well. Even with freezing them in a freezer before hand.