Is it worth holding on to the old eng?

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've been really impressed with the 3.0 in my 2011 Escape. I'm not sure how it compares to a Ranger tho.

 

[sgtsandman]

I've been really impressed with the 3.0 in my 2011 Escape. I'm not sure how it compares to a Ranger tho.

The 3.0 was made to be in a car. So, it makes sense that it do well in an Escape. Most crossover SUVs are essentially tall station wagons. So, only a little bit heavier.

I know my buddy, who has 3.0 Escape likes it.

 

[the old wallflower]

Thanks for the very interesting opinion. My bug eye sprite is gone as well as my 64 1/2 mustang along with so many others. Now its just a very nice( not showroom) looking truck with 34,128 miles. So this morning I went to check the firing order before i pull the plugs and find that the 3 on the rt (passenger) side are not even there. 3 new plug wires just hanging where they should be. You just can't make this stuff up! I was told that one of the heads were taken off and "fixed". Now do I take the motor out (i can't do it in my present condition) and have the other head also sent in to be gone over or for now just find a used 3.0 and get it on the road and later do a larger engine swap out? I'm finding used 3.0's for under $700 and if I knew how hard it is to pull it I might just go get a pick a part one for $250.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I know there’s a number that tells you the year I think of the block. It’s towards the back of the block on the drivers side I think.

I understand the desire for matching numbers on something collectible, but fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your take of it, Rangers haven’t really become collectible except to us enthusiasts. The Bronco II is supposed to be on the way up in collectible status and I’m not entirely sure how I feel about that.

On more recent vehicles the engine and transmission have their own serial numbers independent of vehicle VIN, which is not referenced on the engine. I worked for Mazda in its reman facility and this was the practice. Only the factory could confirm which serial number engine and transmission went into a particular VIN, and for a long time Mazda wasn't recording that info in Hiroshima or, if it was, wasn't releasing it. My Japanese boss discovered this when I raised the question about whether we could track VINs that way. He was scratching his head about that too.

Whatever Mazda was doing or not doing, you can figure most other auto companies were doing (or not) as well.

There is a recent US requirement that the VIN be stamped or etched on certain components to combat theft, including fenders and driven rear axles, for example. The requirement apparently does not extend to the entire engine or transmission, probably because no one is likely to steal an engine from a vehicle in someone's driveway.

This means that "matching numbers" aren't happening on newer vehicles.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Back to the OP, I am as concerned about the wiring damage as I would be about the engine. Having access to another similar Ranger would allow you to see exactly what was burned/damaged. You'll have to get that right for the engine to run. Also check the engine computer, as it could have been damaged or fried.

 

[Rick W]

Back to the OP, I am as concerned about the wiring damage as I would be about the engine. Having access to another similar Ranger would allow you to see exactly what was burned/damaged. You'll have to get that right for the engine to run. Also check the engine computer, as it could have been damaged or fried.

I agree. Chasing down wiring and chasing down vacuum lines is a colossal pain in the ass, but usually it’s not a colossal pain on your back. It’s tedious, may even be mentally tedious, but it’s not torturous on the muscles.

And I highly concur, that if you can get access to the same make and model and get pictures, or even videos, moving your camera around the different cavities around the engine compartment, it might take a little while, but you should be able to reconnect everything.

And when I say “take a while,“ I’m talking about hours, not days or weeks.

My two cents. Not even up to a nickel yet…

 

[Rick W]

And then afterthought, sounds like you might be an old timer like me. When I’m looking to fix these things these days, I find a lot of old bones I didn’t know about. Old muscles, old tendons, you name it…

But on the wiring, you can come and go, wire by wire, with a beer and a folding chair in between each one

 

[the old wallflower]

Yea 73 this year. Because of where it burnt, top of the eng, I was told they put in new wires however looking at this it appears the wires were plug wires. I can see a bundle that looked burnt and the elect box under the hood has been pulled up so as to track wires. If i had the space i would try to find an old Ranger that was up for sale as a parts truck. In the old days, 60's to 70's the wires were ether to the coil or starter or ignition. Now who knows where it all goes.

 

[Rick W]

F

Yea 73 this year. Because of where it burnt, top of the eng, I was told they put in new wires however looking at this it appears the wires were plug wires. I can see a bundle that looked burnt and the elect box under the hood has been pulled up so as to track wires. If i had the space i would try to find an old Ranger that was up for sale as a parts truck. In the old days, 60's to 70's the wires were ether to the coil or starter or ignition. Now who knows where it all goes.

I think I posted just a short while ago somewhere, but I think it’s before you joined, of when I got frustrated with a 56 Dodge phone company truck I ended up with, that had a flathead six in it. It was a 6 volt, and it had the old cotton coated wires. I had it my last year of college and a couple years after that. I didn’t have any problems the first year, and I had replaced the engine with a used one, but after that, it seemed about every other week one of the wires would short out. So I rewired every single thing on the truck. It took a couple hours. All there were were headlights, turn signals tail lights, and maybe a blower motor. It had the starter pedal on the floor, push to engage and start The windshield wipers worked off vacuum, and I didn’t change it from a 6 V. I wish I had it now, it wasn’t fast, but it would go anywhere. I never saw another one.

Try rewiring one in a couple hours now…

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, the joy of vacuum wipers!

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Gotta say after reading this, I want pictures of the engine..

 

[the old wallflower]

ok so as you can see by the hood about where it burnt. I think they replaced the intake and pulled & swapped one of the heads. Also if you look at the starter solenoid one wire is off and when you put it on and turn the key to on, the starter cranks. nothing when disconnected. Chasing wires is a long process but i have time now so.....?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Aside from the lack of pointy ears it looks like a Vulcan to me...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

ok so as you can see by the hood about where it burnt. I think they replaced the intake and pulled & swapped one of the heads. Also if you look at the starter solenoid one wire is off and when you put it on and turn the key to on, the starter cranks. nothing when disconnected. Chasing wires is a long process but i have time now so.....?

The small wire is from your ignition switch. It should provide power only when the key is in the run position. This tells the fender relay (solenoid) to pass power from the battery to the starter.
I see one sensor on the intake unplugged.
I see one wire harness unplugged.
I see a white wire going to ground on the engine intake, and maybe going to a fan controller or DRL (Daytime Running Lights).

 

[the old wallflower]

I thought I saw the 2 pointy ears somewhere under there. The solenoid wire normally when connected tells it what to do but in this case when its attached it engages the starter as soon as you turn the switch to the on position. in this case i am not sure if it actually engages the coil ect... I can jump it across the solenoid but i'm not sure its in the run position. guess i could put a plug in one of the wires and watch for a spark. tomorrow i will work on getting the other 3 plugs out and start a compression test. If the valve timing is not correct will it not do a good test? 30 years ago I could pull it. fix it, and put it back together in the same day. Now I have to spend half the day remembering why I was out here if front of the Ranger.....

well at least I now know what eng it is! Thank you all