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1985 ford ranger v6 AC


ISX_15

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2018
Messages
161
City
Phoenix, Arizona
Vehicle Year
1985
Engine
2.8 V6
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
245/60r14
Anyone with v6 1st gen rangers have working AC?
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is this the correct compressor i need for r134a swap
I dont have original compressor, just everything else
 
Just buy a replacement compressor for your truck. What refrigerant it uses does not matter. They were designed for R12 but will work fine with 134a. Just be mindful what oil comes with the compressor and what oil you are going to use. You have two choices; PAG or Ester oil.
 
I rebuilt my whole 88 ac system. It will need converted to 134. Part stores sell the connectors that screw on to the old style hose connectors The compressor you are showing is not identical to mine. Part store can get the correct one for you. My Ranger build I show replacing the Evaporator. It is a little tight but I would recommend it just for the reason you may have a lot of debris in there. My ac is working great.
 
It's rare to have debris in the evaporator, since the orifice is right before it and the orifice has a screen in it. The one to replace to just be replacing it is the condenser. The condenser is the one in front of the radiator. The output of the compressor goes straight into the condenser, so if there is a mechanical failure in the compressor, it does go right in there and clogs things up.
 
It's rare to have debris in the evaporator, since the orifice is right before it and the orifice has a screen in it. The one to replace to just be replacing it is the condenser. The condenser is the one in front of the radiator. The output of the compressor goes straight into the condenser, so if there is a mechanical failure in the compressor, it does go right in there and clogs things up.
Thanks for the info, yeah im seeing lots of different style compressors with different mounting points, and pulleys, the one i posted , fairly certain that would work. If i remember correctly someone mentioned replacing condenser to a newer one as its more “efficient”? Maybe im over my head, ill do the compressor and go from there. How do i also make sure clutch isnt constantly engaged? Are they built internally to kick on and off as needed? I heard theres a adjustment screw
 
Just buy a replacement compressor for your truck. What refrigerant it uses does not matter. They were designed for R12 but will work fine with 134a. Just be mindful what oil comes with the compressor and what oil you are going to use. You have two choices; PAG or Ester oil.
Problem is finding a original one isnt easy, so im just gonna go with one from amazon , looks like it should fit and has the proper connection for my fittings.
 
Problem is finding a original one isnt easy, so im just gonna go with one from amazon , looks like it should fit and has the proper connection for my fittings.
That's all that matters.

The clutch is controlled by the low pressure switch. This switch is usually screwed into the receiver dryer or in that neighborhood near the firewall. You will need to unplug the wiring plug and put a little jumper in there to make the compressor run during your initial fill. You can start filling with the cans without the jumper, but it may take awhile for the system to build enough pressure from the cans to turn the clutch on

The adjustment for the low pressure switch is right in between the two prongs where the wiring plug plugs in. Don't mess with this in the beginning. Only after you get the system filled. You will know it needs a little adjusting when your system blows cold air on a very warm day, and then suddenly the compressor kicks off, its start blowing warm air, and then the compressor kicks back on and it starts blowing cold again. You can adjust the switch a little bit at a time till the compressor stays on. Just make sure you do this with the windows down and on a very warm day. The compressor will normally cycle on a cooler day, and if you have the windows up and the controls on max and it gets very cold inside the truck. The low pressure switch controls the cooling by controlling the clutch.

They did come out with a different design condenser in front of the radiator when they started using r134a from the factory. They do make the system more efficient. But the problem is getting it to fit in a older truck and making sure the lines fit up. While it does make it work better, I think you will find the original style condensor works well enough with 134a and there are no fitment problems.
 
I do not know how much you know about working on a A/C system? You are going to pull a vacuum on it for a hour or two, check for leaks, before filling?

How much oil are you using and what type?
 
Here is just some of the stuff you can find in your Evaporator, I really dont know how to post pics from threads. This is on my thread. Your new replacement compressor will not come with the hose connectors. You will need to move them from your old compressor.
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IMG_4269.jpeg
IMG_4268.jpeg
 
I dont know how to copy my pictures from my thread, but remove your blower resistor and see if there is debris in there. To access the evaporator, you remove the cover which is easiest by pulling your inner fender. You can recharge your ac by guessing, but I sent mine to a shop so they could install the correct amount of oils and the correct weight of coolant. They will do a leak check, vacuum check and then fill correctly.
 
I dont know how to copy my pictures from my thread, but remove your blower resistor and see if there is debris in there. To access the evaporator, you remove the cover which is easiest by pulling your inner fender. You can recharge your ac by guessing, but I sent mine to a shop so they could install the correct amount of oils and the correct weight of coolant. They will do a leak check, vacuum check and then fill correctly.
You are totally correct on debris on the evaporator EXTERNALLY. What you will also find is a mud like substance since the evaporator sweats when it runs, and then all that dirt sticks to it and turns to a mud and blocks the airflow.

In my post about the evaporator and the orifice valve with the screen, I thought you were commenting on INTERNAL clogs and debris. My comment on the condensor getting clogged easily would be on the inside of the condensor.
 
@franklin2 I replaced my condenser. The factory one is twice as thick as the factory original one. I forget where I got my replacement but it is litearlly half the size of the original. It looks to be all aluminium. Is it better then the factory? I could not tell you on that. I will say after doing a complete rebuild of my ac system I am very happy with it. Only thing I did not replace was my main hoses. I just used an ac flush on them and then blew out real good with an air hose. I replaced condenser, pump,evaporator, dryer, orifice tube, and the pressure switch. I think that is all if I recall correctly.
 
I do not know how much you know about working on a A/C system? You are going to pull a vacuum on it for a hour or two, check for leaks, before filling?

How much oil are you using and what type?
To be frank with you no i am not a AC tech however doing my research i do know the tools i’d need and protocols to take etc.. what parts are what. Im still learning as we go, this truck is older so its not like i can just easily get it done. My dad knows alot more about it then i do since he went to school for it so im gonna have him give me a hand, most i can do for now is get the parts ordered. Obviously after flushing out the system, i dont think i should have any problems considering everything is there. I was told the truck was used as like a “shuttle” for towing behind trucks and stuff, and the compressor was removed
To save fuel economy apparently.
 
You are totally correct on debris on the evaporator EXTERNALLY. What you will also find is a mud like substance since the evaporator sweats when it runs, and then all that dirt sticks to it and turns to a mud and blocks the airflow.

In my post about the evaporator and the orifice valve with the screen, I thought you were commenting on INTERNAL clogs and debris. My comment on the condensor getting clogged easily would be on the inside of the condensor.
 

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I did not know the dryer was located behind the grill in 85. 87 and 88 they at the firewall. Behind the grill would be easier to access,.
 

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