1999 4.0 valve cover gasket

[RussAdams]

Should I look for better valve cover gaskets?

This is the enginetech gasket. It looks like some sort of cork and rubber fusion.

Here is the old gasket that was in there when I took the valve covers off.

 

[Kira]

I had the same experience with a transmission pan gasket.
The old was more constructed, the replacement, cork.
The cork working fine 4 years later.
Maybe check your VC for flatness?

 

[Shran]

Cork is fine if your valve covers are nice and flat. Indian Head gasket shellac is the ticket for success with cork. Make sure you put a little blob of RTV on the edges where the lower intake meets the head (4 spots) regardless of what gasket you use.

Generally I prefer the molded rubber & metal style but I have had those leak too.

Also torqueing your bolts correctly will prevent leaks... I have taken shortcuts on those and not torqued them and it's bit me every time.

 

[rhekman]

Should I look for better valve cover gaskets?

This is the enginetech gasket. It looks like some sort of cork and rubber fusion.


Here is the old gasket that was in there when I took the valve covers off.

Your old molded metal/rubber gasket looks like the one out of the Mahle/Clevite gasket set (# MIS19316 on RockAuto).

I've also had decent luck with the plastic + embedded silicone Victor Reinz gaskets (# 151057601 on RockAuto). Put a little extra dab of Permatex Ultra-Grey on the intake/cylinder head parting line, and around the valve cover bolt holes. And I second both Kira's and Shran's points - make sure the valve cover mating surface is flat (bolt holes tend to get deformed), and torque them properly (don't overdo it)

Also wipe down the surfaces with brake cleaner and/or acetone and make sure it's completely dry before applying sealant and the gaskets. Also follow any silicone gasket sealant instructions precisely (usually finger tight at first, wait at least 1-2 hours, then torque appropriately).

 

[RussAdams]

<snip>
The cork working fine 4 years later.
Maybe check your VC for flatness?

Thanks for this! I'm stripping and repainting the VCs Ford Blue. Their original color looks blue/gray. And is mostly gone.

I'll definitely check for flatness and tune them if necessary.

 

[RussAdams]

Cork is fine if your valve covers are nice and flat. Indian Head gasket shellac is the ticket for success with cork.

I was going to use permatex copper rtv as It seems easier to see and work with.

Why use Indian Head? Great reviews on Amazon though!

Permatex 20539 Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound, 2 oz.

Indian Head Gasket Shellac

Make sure you put a little blob of RTV on the edges where the lower intake meets the head (4 spots) regardless of what gasket you use.

Just in the corners of the lower intake manifold gasket?

Generally I prefer the molded rubber & metal style but I have had those leak too.

Also torqueing your bolts correctly will prevent leaks... I have taken shortcuts on those and not torqued them and it's bit me every time.

I'll pick up some Indian Head, and check flatness before putting the VCs back on. Thanks also for stressing the importance of correct torque.

Russ

 

[RussAdams]

Your old molded metal/rubber gasket looks like the one out of the Mahle/Clevite gasket set (# MIS19316 on RockAuto).

I've also had decent luck with the plastic + embedded silicone Victor Reinz gaskets (# 151057601 on RockAuto). Put a little extra dab of Permatex Ultra-Grey on the intake/cylinder head parting line, and around the valve cover bolt holes. And I second both Kira's and Shran's points - make sure the valve cover mating surface is flat (bolt holes tend to get deformed), and torque them properly (don't overdo it)

Also wipe down the surfaces with brake cleaner and/or acetone and make sure it's completely dry before applying sealant and the gaskets. Also follow any silicone gasket sealant instructions precisely (usually finger tight at first, wait at least 1-2 hours, then torque appropriately).

Great advice! I try to get everything as clean as I possibly can before reassembly.

Acetone, brake cleaner and clean rags are your friends!

 

[Shran]

Why use Indian Head? Great reviews on Amazon though!

Keeps the gasket in place while installing and helps keep any little imperfection from leaking... it's sort of like glue almost. I only use it for cork gaskets. I no longer use RTV on any gasket, it is not really necessary.

Just in the corners of the lower intake manifold gasket?

In these spots on both sides.

 

[RussAdams]

Keeps the gasket in place while installing and helps keep any little imperfection from leaking

In these spots on both sides.

Thanks for this! Sorry for the delayed reply. Been under the Ranger a lot lately though. Almost ready to re-install the heads and intake manifold. I couldn't find this thread... blind I guess. But I remembered the "Indian Head" referral and found the thread searching for it. I purchased some, and will try it out on the new gaskets.

And will be sure to get a good coating of RTV in the four spots (8 including top and bottom) you pointed out.

 

[Shran]

Thanks for this! Sorry for the delayed reply. Been under the Ranger a lot lately though. Almost ready to re-install the heads and intake manifold. I couldn't find this thread... blind I guess. But I remembered the "Indian Head" referral and found the thread searching for it. I purchased some, and will try it out on the new gaskets.

And will be sure to get a good coating of RTV in the four spots (8 including top and bottom) you pointed out.

Just a little dab on the head/intake side is all you need, its purpose is just to fill in that little void between the two pieces. None needed on the top of the gasket/valve cover side.

 

[RussAdams]

None needed on the top of the gasket/valve cover side.

Thanks Shran!

 

[RussAdams]

August 17, 2024 update:

Everything is installed except the front exhaust and catalytic converters.

Runs smoothly, although a bit rich as the O2 sensors are not installed yet.