What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

My problem with the explorers is with the parasitic drains with all the fancy junk on them (air shocks are the main culprit I think, with the modules that drive them) and me only having one slow charger/maintainer. I don't always park close enough to power... for those two rigs I'll probably just get dedicated float chargers...

Just an afterthought comment, my old junk has very little that’s electronic, so those cheap trickle chargers work just fine. I think the reason the second battery died on the Road Ranger when I was doing the interior work was because the trickle charger was trying to keep up with the doors being open, etc. I don’t think they’re geared for that kind of thing.

The Battery Tender Jr. is pretty rugged though. The cheap ones generally last me a year or two. I’ve had that battery tender Junior for probably 10 years, and it is my go to trickle charger if I have the slightest doubt.

And I’ll just re-emphasize that I took about 20 feet of lamp cord and spliced it into the 110 side of one of those little chargers with no issues whatsoever. I have outlets everywhere, including outside, but there are two places where I park that I need the extra reach.

You know the drill, no criticism here. If you think of the “effort” in putting a couple together, it’s one millionth the effort of fighting a dead battery or replacing it.

My two cents. Hope it helps.

 

[JoshT]

If you use the felt washers, use the namebrand washers from an auto parts store in a package. They are treated, and it’s actually the treatment that dissipates the corrosion.

The green and red felt washers you can buy online “open box” or in a bag are just felt washers that aren’t treated. If you get them, and rub them in baking soda, they do a decent job of keeping corrosion down.

I got the bucket of black NOCO ones last time I bought some. Treated and enough to do all my stuff with some left over.

 

[JoshT]

I don't like the spray either. It's a dust magnet... and gives zero chance to keep the top of your battery clean.

Again, the NOCO stuff is latest I used. The protection spray goes on and dries. I've only used it on my car so far, but I drive it daily and haven't seen where it attracts/collects more dust than any thing else in the engine bay.

 

[JoshT]

I don't always park close enough to power... for those two rigs I'll probably just get dedicated float chargers...

And I’ll just re-emphasize that I took about 20 feet of lamp cord and spliced it into the 110 side of one of those little chargers with no issues whatsoever. I have outlets everywhere, including outside, but there are two places where I park that I need the extra reach.

For stuff too far from an outlet have y'all considered a cheap solar panel. A 25-30 watt panel is going to put out about the same as those little trickle chargers and should be enough for maintaining a battery.

 

[Rick W]

For stuff too far from an outlet have y'all considered a cheap solar panel. A 25-30 watt panel is going to put out about the same as those little trickle chargers and should be enough for maintaining a battery.

How about a windmill??!?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Again, the NOCO stuff is latest I used. The protection spray goes on and dries. I've only used it on my car so far, but I drive it daily and haven't seen where it attracts/collects more dust than any thing else in the engine bay.

There are multiple ways to skin the cat...

I've only used the Permatex stuff... it remains tacky... it collects everything.

I still believe that stuff is snake oil. An add on sale they get you to spring for after you just spent money cleaning up corroded connections or replacing a battery/cables/cable ends. I think all that preventative stuff just funnels all the corrosive stuff to exactly where you don't want it.

I'll stick to just keeping my battery clean... it works well for me.

 

[JoshT]

To each their own. Noone has tried to sell it to me. I have used it on my battery and it seems to work.

How about a windmill??!?

You could use a bicycle generator for all I care. I was just presenting solar as a feasible and practical trickle charging option where a power outlet wasn't available. We use around 100w of solar to keep battery charged up on our hunting club camper year round, but that needs more capacity since it's actually charging a drained battery. For just maintaining a battery that is charged, a 25 watt unit from harbor freight will likely do the job. Not super cheap, but costs less than adding an outlet, and it's solar so nothing added to the power bill.

 

[Rick W]

To each their own. Noone has tried to sell it to me. I have used it on my battery and it seems to work.

You could use a bicycle generator for all I care. I was just presenting solar as a feasible and practical trickle charging option where a power outlet wasn't available. We use around 100w of solar to keep battery charged up on our hunting club camper year round, but that needs more capacity since it's actually charging a drained battery. For just maintaining a battery that is charged, a 25 watt unit from harbor freight will likely do the job. Not super cheap, but costs less than adding an outlet, and it's solar so nothing added to the power bill.

I was just being contrary…

 

[Rick W]

To each their own. Noone has tried to sell it to me. I have used it on my battery and it seems to work.

You could use a bicycle generator for all I care. I was just presenting solar as a feasible and practical trickle charging option where a power outlet wasn't available. We use around 100w of solar to keep battery charged up on our hunting club camper year round, but that needs more capacity since it's actually charging a drained battery. For just maintaining a battery that is charged, a 25 watt unit from harbor freight will likely do the job. Not super cheap, but costs less than adding an outlet, and it's solar so nothing added to the power bill.

Hey, I’m sorry. Sometimes I can be a real Butthead when I’m trying to make a joke. I just meant a little humor in the current political climate.

I don’t know much about solar cells, but I suspect you were entirely correct.

 

[JoshT]

Hey, I’m sorry. Sometimes I can be a real Butthead when I’m trying to make a joke. I just meant a little humor in the current political climate.

I don’t know much about solar cells, but I suspect you were entirely correct.

Don't worry, wasn't thinking that you were. I didn't know if you realized that I was being serious though.


In other note the V8 swap can officially be called done!

Last I posted (about the truck) I think was Tuesday and we just got it running. Wednesday Dad put in a new O2 sensor, but that's all that got done due to various Dr appointments. Thursday while I was at work Dad worked on filling up the other fluids, and got it back on the ground. After work we finished filling up the fluids and took it for first test drive with the V8. Found a loose plug wire which helped a bunch and chocked the rest up to no exhaust and needing to relearn.

Was going to have parents drop it at exhaust shop this morning, but that didn't quite work out as expected. Dad was hurting and had to take one of his good pain pills. I ended up taking the day and getting it there myself, and it was probably a good thing. About a 15 minute drive on interstate and it started out good, but half way it got very unhappy again. Backfiring to the point that we went back with a trailer to pick it up. Also good that I was there because my plan for exhaust didn't go how I wanted and needed some rethinking. Ended up with a 2 into 1 Flowmaster with turn down just ahead of the axle.

What sucks is that I could have driven it home from the shop of AutoZone had done the scanner right. After getting off the interstate on the way to the shop I stopped there to use their scanner. They only showed one code, P0171, Bank one lean. After getting it home I connected my scanner and it also had a P0302 and P0303, that they didn't show me in their computer. Had to be there the first time as truck only moved a mile after the first scan. After getting home I found that the #2 & #3 plug wires were crossed.

Running great now. Next I need to figure out why AC clutch isn't engaging, fix a wheel speed sensor on passenger side, move the tach wire in the cluster, and probably pull the 4x4 bulbs unless I can find another method to disable them.

5pm Edit: Wheel speed sensor appears fixed (new sensor) and it looks like I have a bad low pressure switch on the AC. Power to both sides of AC relay like it should be. Get power to low pressure switch, continuity is good between there and high pressure switch, but I never get 12v to high pressure switch.


Sig is changed, profile is changed, now I just need to figure out how to add the banner. Maybe I need to be in the computer instead of the phone?

 

[Rick W]

Congratulations!

I don’t know the mechanics like you guys, but I can confirm crossing a couple of spark, plug wires will make it run funny.

Question. Is the two into one with a turn down just a temporary to get it on the road? I can’t imagine putting a V-8 into anything without the confirming melody that comes out of dual exhausts…

 

[Lefty]

Funny. Some years ago, I put a little Ford 2.8 liter into my MGB. I also installed dual exhausts with glass packs. My mechanic used to laugh because that little British car sounded like an 8.

 

[JoshT]

Question. Is the two into one with a turn down just a temporary to get it on the road? I can’t imagine putting a V-8 into anything without the confirming melody that comes out of dual exhausts…

Yes, among other things. I wanted to roll my own from bits and pieces. The plan was to use the Explorer exhaust back through the rear cats (2.5" outlets), the tail pipes (also 2.5") from a cat back Ranger exhaust I pulled from the last parts truck, and put a Thrush dual in/out muffler between them.

After installing the explorer cat pipes into the Ranger frame I discovered that the rear cats didn't fit so well and were hitting the frame. Should have expected it since the explorer frame is wider there. That combined with the way pipes needed to be bent had me going to the professionals.

I wanted them to follow the same plan, but then I mentioned that I wanted them tucked high over the rear axle because of the lowering plan. Shop said hold up, get it lowered first then do the tail pipes to fit. They also didn't like the size of the muffler for the space available. I decided since it's temporary any way, why pay extra for a dual outlet muffler and two turn downs.

I'll go back after I have the suspension sorted and get it changed over to dual out (or two mufflers + crossover) and tail pipes exiting from each rear bed corner. In the mean time I might see if I can connect my stock tail pipe in place of the turn down, if it's big enough.

 

[JoshT]

Funny. Some years ago, I put a little Ford 2.8 liter into my MGB. I also installed dual exhausts with glass packs. My mechanic used to laugh because that little British car sounded like an 8.

You know what else is funny...

1) I had an 84 Ranger with the 2.8L, slightly warmed over, and it had 2.5" true dual exhaust. Generic muffler shop turbo mufflers instead of glass packs, but I liked the sound.

2) I've still got that engine 15 years after totaling the truck and looking for something to put it into. Beginning of last year I was seriously considering picking up an MGB for that. Now I'm leaning more towards building it into a Locost in a several years after I get some other projects wrapped. There are better options for that chassis, but I think the 2.8L fits the theme of those builds (low cost), as well as the era in which they were developed and popularized.

 

[Rick W]

Are you guys talking about a 2.8 v6? Did Ford make a 2.8 V8?

The Road Ranger has a stock 4.0. Muffler guy cut the driver side exhaust at the bottom before it crossed over, added a cat and ran it straight back. Cut it off the passenger side and capped it.

Minimal short glass packs right after that. Passenger straight back and bent 90 straight up behind the cab. Drivers side sloppily runs under the frame to abound the gas tank and then straight up after the cab. All that is the original 2.25? 2.5? Just above frame top, two 3” chrome stacks (3ft?) are welded on.

It sounds awesome! Not V8 awesome, but pretty close. If you think about it, it still doubled the exhaust area, and then expands in the 3”

Low priority now, but I’m thinking of duplicating it out the back of the Missing Linc 2.9.

I’m going to fix where it loops under the frame. Quickly done to get it to get to Truck Nationals.