Need some advice regarding first gen front and rear suspension.

[ndmp40]

New to Rangers but not to modding cars. I finished a 79 Mustang last year, and now working on a 1964 Falcon. The Ranger is next. See pictures below.
I have a new to me 1986 Ranger (6000 original miles), it has had a 302 swap with a T5. I am happy with the powertrain for now, and want to work on the suspension. My objective is to lower the truck (not slammed or bagged) with a good riding suspension, and put better brakes on it. I intend the drive the car on the street, make it sort of like a Ranger street rod. Its not a race truck, just a fun and unique driver.
One thing I have noticed is that the steering could use an upgrade. Thinking of a rack and pinion, this has worked great on my Falcon. I also would like to ditch the front beams, but perhaps that is not a good idea????? I have seen drop beams used for about a 3" drop which looks perfect visually, but not sure if they ride nicely. Perhaps a Mustang 2 (used in the Falcon), or a Fox body mustang front? Crown Vic maybe? Need advice here.
In the rear I think I would go with a coil over and four link of some sort. What works well? I know there are a few kits out there, and would prefer to use something already proven rather than start from scratch.
Hope you guys with Ranger experience can help me out.
Here is a picture of the truck.

 

[ndmp40]

Here is the 79 Mustang.

 

[ndmp40]

Here is the Falcon in process.

 

[sgtsandman]

To install a rack and pinion, I think you would have to go with a newer Ranger suspension and install a cross member to support the suspension and the rack.

If I remember correctly, the same year they switched the front suspension and went to a rack and pinion, they also widened the front frame section and boxed it. That would be from 1998 on, if I have my information correct.

As far as the rear suspension with the coil overs and the four link. I think others have done something similar. There will probably be less hurdles to navigate compared to the front.

My experience is with the 1998+ Ranger ls and I haven’t gotten into modifications that heavy but I think I’m giving you pretty decent info to start with.

 

[19Walt93]

I'd use a Mustang II setup like you did on the Falcon rather than adapt a later Ranger IFS because more choices of parts are available and it would be easier to align. Being a dinosaur, I'd retain the rear leaf springs and mount the axle on top but 4 links are nice if your budget can stand it. On the Falcon, I'm sure you're aware that the front subframe isn't stout enough unless you run braces back to transfer the load to the firewall like the original suspension. The man who designed the Falcon front suspension, Fred Hooven, was a customer at my old dealership after he retired from Ford.

 

[JoshT]

If you are dead set on swapping the front suspension, either go MII, or look into the AJE K-member swap that you can find in another thread here.

IMO not worth it for you goals. Drop beams with good shocks and tires can be great for what you want. You shouldn't try to use a R&P with TIB suspension, the steering geometery is all wrong. A nice tight steering gear box works great, there are even quick ratio boxes available IIRC.

A good starting point would be swapping to 89+ drop beams with 95-97 steering knuckles. That will get you dual piston calipers which is a great upgrade right by itself. Those can be further upgraded with some options found elsewhere. I can point you to those at a later time if interested.

Anti-sway bars work wonders, many of these trucks never had one or only a small one in front. Going to the later model beams opens up the options for more of these as well.

A fresh steering gear box if yours is loose. Consider looking for that quick ration unit.

Fresh bushing everywhere. Those often get overlooked on these trucks and can make a huge difference. Axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, etc.

Been a long time since I had a first gen, but my 84 rode and handled nice prior to being totaled. At the time it was stock height and brakes, new suspension bushings everywhere, new decent (not great) shocks, 225/65R16 (?) tires on later Ranger wheels, aftermarket front 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" anti-sway bar. I don't recall if I had gotten around to installing the 1" BII rear bar before I totaled it. I had the parts collected to lower it, but never got the chance.

If you were building to race I could see considering a suspension swap, but for a comfortable street truck it's a bit excessive IMO. When I eventually build my next first gen I'll be following the recepie I've spelled out above. I've already got a shelf or two full of goodies waiting for it.

 

[Josh B]

Those are some cool vehicles ndmp, welcome to TRS

 

[ndmp40]

If you are dead set on swapping the front suspension, either go MII, or look into the AJE K-member swap that you can find in another thread here.

IMO not worth it for you goals. Drop beams with good shocks and tires can be great for what you want. You shouldn't try to use a R&P with TIB suspension, the steering geometery is all wrong. A nice tight steering gear box works great, there are even quick ratio boxes available IIRC.

A good starting point would be swapping to 89+ drop beams with 95-97 steering knuckles. That will get you dual piston calipers which is a great upgrade right by itself. Those can be further upgraded with some options found elsewhere. I can point you to those at a later time if interested.

Anti-sway bars work wonders, many of these trucks never had one or only a small one in front. Going to the later model beams opens up the options for more of these as well.

A fresh steering gear box if yours is loose. Consider looking for that quick ration unit.

Fresh bushing everywhere. Those often get overlooked on these trucks and can make a huge difference. Axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, etc.

Been a long time since I had a first gen, but my 84 rode and handled nice prior to being totaled. At the time it was stock height and brakes, new suspension bushings everywhere, new decent (not great) shocks, 225/65R16 (?) tires on later Ranger wheels, aftermarket front 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" anti-sway bar. I don't recall if I had gotten around to installing the 1" BII rear bar before I totaled it. I had the parts collected to lower it, but never got the chance.

If you were building to race I could see considering a suspension swap, but for a comfortable street truck it's a bit excessive IMO. When I eventually build my next first gen I'll be following the recepie I've spelled out above. I've already got a shelf or two full of goodies waiting for it.

Thanks this is very helpful. I have lots of familiarity with the Fox front suspension, it works very well, lots of parts around, and gives me an option for great and reasonably priced brakes. I can use a power rack and pinion with the AJE setup, so that is nice.
I had one experience with the dropped beams and found the truck to ride poorly. It could have been the springs used, I dont know.

 

[19Walt93]

Even if you could stand the twin I beams, a recirculating ball steering box is going to feel soggy, sloppy, and slow compared to any rack and pinion.
My old customer who designed the Falcon front end also designed a front wheel drive system and rack and pinion he wanted Ford to use in the 58 T Bird. Ford sold the front drive design to GM and they used it in the Eldorado and Toronado. In the 80's he was still shaking his head about Ford sticking with their sloppy old steering system.

 

[JoshT]

I had one experience with the dropped beams and found the truck to ride poorly. It could have been the springs used, I dont know.

It's also heavily dependent on personal preference, you may get in the same vehicle and think it was terrible.

My experiences with TIB were the Ranger mentioned, a 94 F-150, and TTB in an 92 BII. Granted none of those were lowered, but I liked the ride in all of them. I had no complaints about the handling in the F-150 or BII, but I wasn't exactly driving them in a sporty manner either. The 84 Ranger I did drive agressively, that's part of why it ended up totaled, and liked the way it rode, but I was working on improving the handling.

My experience is also a little skewed. My experience in cars has been a 95 Ford Probe, and my current DD which is a 2010 Kia Forte. The ride in the Probe was probably more comfortable, but I honestly felt the way that they handled to be similar. The Kia handles better than the 84 Ranger did without a doubt, but feel that the Ranger (and Probe) had the better ride and feel when driving. The Kia also gets easily twice the MPG that the Ranger did and still a bit better than the Probe did. UnfortunatelyI didn'town all three in drivable condition at the same time. Totaled the Ranger a bit before buying the Probe, then the trans dying in the Probe lead to buying the Kia.

Even if you could stand the twin I beams, a recirculating ball steering box is going to feel soggy, sloppy, and slow compared to any rack and pinion.

I can easily stand TIB, I actually like it. I think in making a statement like that it is also inportant to look at use case. If you were looking to build a track vehicle that might be a concern, but I have seen TIB Rangers having fun on auto cross courses and they were ran in SCCA events back in the day. In the case of a fun street vehicle, I question if the difference between a standard rack and pinion, and a good condition recirculating ball steering box is worth the work required to use it. I mean a good condition recirc ball steering box, not a 20+ year old stock unit that "works" or a generic autoparts store rebuild. A quality rebuilt unit from some place like Red-Head or Blue-Top.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

A rear sway bar made a HUGE difference in my lifted 4wd on the highway. Made the truck much nicer to road trip with.

And mine is just the wimpy later model 5/8" one.

 

[ndmp40]

Any ideas about the rear? I put a 9 inch in the Falcon and Mustang, but I know there is lots of talk about an 8.8 out of an explorer. Not sure why, but I could go with one for the right reasons.
And I think a coilover would be a great addition over leaf springs. Any help?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

How much work are you willing to do? How about an independent rear suspension from an explorer or similar type vehicle? I haven't looked into the feasibility myself as I don't have time...
Other wise I think the regular 8.8" explorer rear axle gets you disc breaks and thicker axles.

 

[19Walt93]

It's also heavily dependent on personal preference, you may get in the same vehicle and think it was terrible.

My experiences with TIB were the Ranger mentioned, a 94 F-150, and TTB in an 92 BII. Granted none of those were lowered, but I liked the ride in all of them. I had no complaints about the handling in the F-150 or BII, but I wasn't exactly driving them in a sporty manner either. The 84 Ranger I did drive agressively, that's part of why it ended up totaled, and liked the way it rode, but I was working on improving the handling.

My experience is also a little skewed. My experience in cars has been a 95 Ford Probe, and my current DD which is a 2010 Kia Forte. The ride in the Probe was probably more comfortable, but I honestly felt the way that they handled to be similar. The Kia handles better than the 84 Ranger did without a doubt, but feel that the Ranger (and Probe) had the better ride and feel when driving. The Kia also gets easily twice the MPG that the Ranger did and still a bit better than the Probe did. UnfortunatelyI didn'town all three in drivable condition at the same time. Totaled the Ranger a bit before buying the Probe, then the trans dying in the Probe lead to buying the Kia.



I can easily stand TIB, I actually like it. I think in making a statement like that it is also inportant to look at use case. If you were looking to build a track vehicle that might be a concern, but I have seen TIB Rangers having fun on auto cross courses and they were ran in SCCA events back in the day. In the case of a fun street vehicle, I question if the difference between a standard rack and pinion, and a good condition recirculating ball steering box is worth the work required to use it. I mean a good condition recirc ball steering box, not a 20+ year old stock unit that "works" or a generic autoparts store rebuild. A quality rebuilt unit from some place like Red-Head or Blue-Top.

I started driving in 1970, have owned 80+ vehicles, and worked at a Ford dealer from 1975-2017, first as a mechanic then as service manager from 82- retirement. I would usually road test over a dozen vehicles every week. Nothing with a recirculating box will ever handle as well or feel as tight as a rack and pinion because it uses so many more moving parts. Twin I beam is superior to a straight axle for everything but load carrying ability but doesn't compare with IFS. When twin I beams suspension moves the camber changes dramatically- watch a TIB truck go across the expansion joint on an interstate bridge and you'll see what I mean. I kept the TIB under my 93 along with the recirculating ball box because I was building on a budget and it works fine driving to the hardware store but it sounds like he's building a performance truck. I don't consider my 4 barrel, Duraspark 351 Ranger to be a performance vehicle.

 

[JoshT]

I don't consider my 4 barrel, Duraspark 351 Ranger to be a performance vehicle.

Neither would I. You've got some target creep going on there, you're moving goal posts, or pick your metaphor.

The op said:

My objective is to lower the truck (not slammed or bagged) with a good riding suspension, and put better brakes on it. I intend the drive the car on the street, make it sort of like a Ranger street rod. Its not a race truck, just a fun and unique driver.

That does not describe a performance vehicle. That describes a fun, quick, daily driver. I said, and stand by it, that he can get what he's describing without swapping the suspension.