Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

Torque Specs?

My Haynes manual says 2000 and earlier;
Trans to Engine 50 to 68 ft.Lb.

It seems high and Haynes says later years were less. They were most definitely in tight.

AllDataDYI and some other places say 28 to 38. I'm wondering if the higher torque numbers are a discrepency. In Haynes it says the later years are lower, and in General Bolt Specs M10 bolts are rated up to 40 ft.lb.

This something I have to settle before tightening these bolts.

 

[9723]

Right now I've got all the trans to engine bolts (except the two for the harness bracket) at 40 ft.lbs. It was fairly difficult to get the top bolts that tight.

I have to wonder about the data discrepancy. I've seen both (50-65) and (28-38) Was it an error, a misprint? I've also read some posts about transmissions with missing bolts. It's possible the higher torque values were added later because the bolts on the md05 R1 installed onto the 2.3L were coming loose? Did they change to the 2.5 or 2.9 in 2000?

Any opinion and experience installing these is appreciated.

 

[RobbieD]

FWIW, the latest model year I own is 1994, and the spec in the Ford shop manual for trans to engine bolts is 28-38 ft-lb (which is 38-51 N-m, Newton-meters, or the metric value to foot-pounds). There's no mention of differences based on engine type.

I do use a dab of mild loctite on these bolts, but I've never had a problem with M5OD bolts loosening. I have had only one transmission, an A4LD auto, that had a problem with trans to engine bolts coming loose, but it also continuously broke flexplates and I suspect the case wasn't machined right when it was made.

 

[9723]

FWIW, the latest model year I own is 1994, and the spec in the Ford shop manual for trans to engine bolts is 28-38 ft-lb (which is 38-51 N-m, Newton-meters, or the metric value to foot-pounds). There's no mention of differences based on engine type.

I do use a dab of mild loctite on these bolts, but I've never had a problem with M5OD bolts loosening. I have had only one transmission, an A4LD auto, that had a problem with trans to engine bolts coming loose, but it also continuously broke flexplates and I suspect the case wasn't machined right when it was made.

That's the conclusion I came to....I think 40 ft.lbs is fine. (?)

....but now I'm mostly lost on the bracket that holds the wire loom. I know the trans harness starts down one side and goes over the top near the back. I think it starts on the side where there are two connectors. That would be the diver's side. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos and apparently didn't pay enough attention either. So I tried the bracket that holds that harness on the driver's side "side bolts". It fits those holes, but seems to stretch the harness and puts the connector wires going the wrong way and under stress. Tried to move it over to the other side (pasngr side), nope not anywhere near. So that means that damn loom bracket MUST go on the trans' top bolts. Very difficult. I can see why people detach the bracket, and I might have to also.

 

[9723]

I gave up.....and took out the harness bracket. I tried it 3 different ways and couldn't make it fit in the right way. I didn't pay close attention to it during disassembly and I can't at this point say which bolts it goes onto. The only way I could've gotten it would be to remove the transmission again. No way, so I took it out.

The bottom tabs protrude 2", so it's nearly impossible to move that and the sub-harnesses around once the trans is in place.

I did instead, tie the harness down with two zip ties. Anchored around the sub-harnesses to the large harness above it.

Here's the important part. Clearance between the transmission harness and the body joint at that location. It's not going to move around that much. Haha, it's not like the 2.3 has torque or anything.

 

[9723]

Well OF COURSE, now I can't get the hydraulic line into the slave. I'm trying to push in the white plastic retainer first. Sometimes I can get it a little way in, but the first time...I tried the clutch, it popped off the slave. I don't wanna do that. I'm about to take a hammer to the retainer tool.

 

[RobbieD]

Take a deep breath, and a little break to chill. Then try just pushing the connectors together, without the tool. Go easy, and a little wiggle is optional.

 

[Shran]

Don't worry about the retainer ring. Where ever it is, will be fine. Grease up the O ring with a little brake fluid or vaseline, open the bleeder a little bit, and give it a nice firm push. You will hear a click when it's in. Be prepared to close the bleeder!!

Sometimes they are difficult and I grip onto the hose right behind the fitting with a pair of vice grips for a little more leverage.

 

[9723]

Take a deep breath, and a little break to chill. Then try just pushing the connectors together, without the tool. Go easy, and a little wiggle is optional.

You're sure right. I walked away a few times.

Sometimes they are difficult and I grip onto the hose right behind the fitting with a pair of vice grips for a little more leverage.

It turned out that was the real problem. In that position, in that space, I couldn't get the leverage or force to get it in.

After a while I figured out that, was the actual problem and used the removal tool to my advantage....with a screwdriver as an aid.

A closer look, the white arrow points to where the screwdriver fits into the trans for the leverage. The black arrow point to the circular ridge the tool sets on top of.....if they'd just make this tool a bit longer at the fork it'd do both. Remove and install.

After a bit more gravity bleeding, I've got clutch and it feels right. I CAN feel the clutch disengage.

.

 

[RobbieD]

Good job!

 

[9723]

Good job!

Thanks I appreciate it, but it took me two hours to figure it out.

 

[Jazzer]

But it's done and you're moving on....

-Jazzer

 

[9723]

But it's done and you're moving on....

-Jazzer

Yep. Yesterday I torqued the rear mounts and cross-member, next:
Tighten the reservoir,
Put the little bit of fender well I'd undone back together,
Reanchore the fan shroud,
Install the starter,
Install the driveshaft and exhaust....
Shifter, shifter plate, shifter cover...carpet and trim. Console.

That's a mouthful but some how, it doesn't seem like so much.

 

[RobbieD]

Thanks I appreciate it, but it took me two hours to figure it out.

Time doesn't matter as much as a job done right.

FYI- Fresh transmission fluid- easiest way is to pour the new in through the shifter hole before you install the shifter. Remove both plugs (which drains the old fluid > put the drain plug back in > pour new fluid in through the shifter opening until it just runs out the fill plug > reinstall the fill plug > install shifter. Drive shaft should be in beforehand.

 

[9723]

Time doesn't matter as much as a job done right.

FYI- Fresh transmission fluid.....

Yeah, thanks for the reminder. I decided I should do the driveshaft and fill the transmission tomorrow, before anything else.