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My New House & Workshop


^Like franklin said if you want two GFCI’s. What he’s calling input is marked “LINE” on the back of the GFCI.
-Jazzer
 
I initially hooked the new ones up the way the old ones were and they didn't work. Then I removed the one with two sets of wires coming to it and rewired it ac CV ording to the diagram that came with the switch and they both started working.
 
I initially hooked the new ones up the way the old ones were and they didn't work. Then I removed the one with two sets of wires coming to it and rewired it ac CV ording to the diagram that came with the switch and they both started working.
When in doubt, follow the directions.
 
When in doubt, follow the directions.
aint-nobody-got-time-fo-dat.jpg
 
At least something's working out for you...

-Jazzer
 
Every project I do in this house results in me having to fix something someone else has done. :huh:
 
I still haven't received an estimate from the contractor that came out the Friday before last.

I found this place out of Fort Worth, TX:


Their buildings are wood post with metal siding. Looks like I could get a 24x30x10 for $12,800

The materials page lists concrete, but the pricing page says:

These basic building packages include one 10X10 roll up door and one 3068 walk in door. All labor and sales tax is accounted for and this is the turnkey price except for the pad dirt that will need to be provided by the customer. Give us a call for more detailed pricing.
 
So on the 1st box with 4 wires, hook the two blacks under the brass screw, and hook the two white under the silver screw on the input only. This will feed that GFCI outlet, and it will also jump the feed directly down the line to the other outlet, without going through the GFCI. The GFCI recept should be setup to accept double wires on the terminals. The other two terminals on the GFCI (the output for slaves) will be left blank.

While that works, it technically doesn't meet code (at least up here). If you are connecting 2 (or more) wires, you are supposed to use Marrette connectors - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-on_wire_connector; a Canadian invention, eh. So the 1st box, you would need an additional piece of black wire, that you would twist together with the input and output black wires, and the pigtail would be connected to the outlet's brass screw. Repeat for the white to the silver terminal and copper to box and ground (ugly shade of green) terminal.

And connecting a GFCI to a GFCI doesn't meet code either - you have to either wire the wires together as noted about or replace the 2nd outlet with a normal one.
 
While that works, it technically doesn't meet code (at least up here). If you are connecting 2 (or more) wires, you are supposed to use Marrette connectors - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-on_wire_connector; a Canadian invention, eh. So the 1st box, you would need an additional piece of black wire, that you would twist together with the input and output black wires, and the pigtail would be connected to the outlet's brass screw. Repeat for the white to the silver terminal and copper to box and ground (ugly shade of green) terminal.

And connecting a GFCI to a GFCI doesn't meet code either - you have to either wire the wires together as noted about or replace the 2nd outlet with a normal one.
Most places in the USA it can be done as Franklin stated. Most outlets are designed for that.
 
I would think Canada would allow it too if like was mentioned, it's designed that way? Most GFCI's have the little metal plates, you don't wrap the wire around the screw. And the metal plate area can accept 4 wires, two on each side.

A GFCI takes a lot of room up in the box. Adding pigtails and wire nuts to handle 12 gauge wires is going to be almost impossible to do unless you used a 4x4 box, or a really deep 2x4 box. And of course you don't have much choice on the box unless it's new construction.
 
I should probably do something about this breaker box in my shop.
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20210509_183515.jpg
 

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