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80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails


I run a similar lift at 6” with no steering stabilizer. It will be ok without that thing.

chances are, your shocks are old and worn. Replacing them will make a big difference along with making sure they are properly attached. Your new shocks should come with new bushings. That helps. Replacing the bushings for your anti-sway bars will help things feel better. Also, check your ball joints and replace as necessary.
 
While we’re on the topic of lifts and steering..this particular factor is still a mystery to me.. There doesn’t seem to be a steering column extension of any sort. I’ve got a 3” body lift.

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That might be something to check out. I believe the steering shaft telescopes a certain amount. But you may not have much engagement between the pieces. There are longer shafts available.
I would take it out and determine how much engagement you have. Then decide whether or not it needs to be changed. If turning the steering wheel makes the wheels turn, your good at least for a while.
 
That might be something to check out. I believe the steering shaft telescopes a certain amount. But you may not have much engagement between the pieces. There are longer shafts available.
I would take it out and determine how much engagement you have. Then decide whether or not it needs to be changed. If turning the steering wheel makes the wheels turn, your good at least for a while.
Haha, well waiting for steering to fail seems a bit not good plannish.
I hadn’t realized there was a subjective degree to which the connections could be engaged. I suppose I’ll be opening up the steering system to check it out!
 
I run a similar lift at 6” with no steering stabilizer. It will be ok without that thing.

chances are, your shocks are old and worn. Replacing them will make a big difference along with making sure they are properly attached. Your new shocks should come with new bushings. That helps. Replacing the bushings for your anti-sway bars will help things feel better. Also, check your ball joints and replace as necessary.
Given my suspension lift amount, should I be putting on longer shocks or just OEM sized shocks? I wonder what’s on there now. Maybe I’ll look for some model info on them.
I would at least be interested in seeing what “firmer” shocks could be found. I understand that new shocks will already make a difference, and hell one of my shocks is plain off right now so I’m garuanteed a giant improvement, but still I’m wondering if people ever choose to increase the rigidity of shocks to give more stability to lifts in general. I do worry about taking basic 30mph turns with all this extra height. The wider tires help though.
 
Yes, longer shocks are usually required for suspension lifts. If you shop with companies like Rancho, Skywalker, maybe Bilstien. Etc. You tell them what vehicle you have and how much it is lifted and their website gives you part numbers for various shocks that will fit that application. Yes. Some shocks are stiffer than others. Some are adjustable. Some have other fancy variable valving features that I don't want to pay for.

You just need to figure out how much lift you have. I would think that is a 3" - 4" lift. If you measure the height of the "extra" spacer block under your rear springs, that should get you close enough to knowing your lift height that you can order shocks.
 
Yes, longer shocks are usually required for suspension lifts. If you shop with companies like Rancho, Skywalker, maybe Bilstien. Etc. You tell them what vehicle you have and how much it is lifted and their website gives you part numbers for various shocks that will fit that application. Yes. Some shocks are stiffer than others. Some are adjustable. Some have other fancy variable valving features that I don't want to pay for.

You just need to figure out how much lift you have. I would think that is a 3" - 4" lift. If you measure the height of the "extra" spacer block under your rear springs, that should get you close enough to knowing your lift height that you can order shocks.

Is my rear suspension lift achieved by a combo of stronger leaf springs and the extra block, or just the block?
The lower block is about 2 3/8", measured from the back not the front.
I guess everyone here is already observing that i've got heavier duty leaf springs pushing things up some too?
 
Looks like my shocks are all Skyjackers. There's also a logo sticker on the rear window announcing such.
They're all red and white.
Rear, X120K3
Front: X215K3 (although it was tough to read that one)
Didn't get any hits searching for those models. How long has Skyjacker been producing shocks?
The lengths concern me though. The one that's loose in front.. as it hangs down it doesn't reach the mount point. That seems counterintuitive. Shouldn't shocks need to be compressed a little bit to be installed? Or at least just sit at the right spot? Not to mention this is when the truck is resting down on its own weight. Jacking the truck up and wheels hanging down, you'd be stretching the shock pretty hard to install it.
I suppose this could mean that someone never put on longer shocks after putting in the suspension lift. If this is the case, then certainly putting on the correct lengths would be a big improvement and it would explain why it currently feels like one of these...

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Did some bed work this morning before work. Couldn’t resist taking out the bed liner insert. Will keep it because it’s very nice, but I am interested in enjoying the truck for what it is for now. Definitely like the old beds. The bed is actually in decent shape! Only small spots of rust and a couple dents in the wheel wells. There also used to be rubber matting along the top of all the trim which I removed and then had to power wash the adhesive. Found a lot of the other black paint under the edges as well of course. Things are cleaning up decently. Will want to hammer down the left edge too.
After and before pressure washing...


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Is there any sort of Owners Manual PDF for the 1st/2nd gen Rangers? I see the bank of manuals here but it only goes back to 1995. The Haynes is great but I need the basic overview too.
 
Have you checked on the Ford web site in the owners section? It might be too old for them to list it or maybe not. They are free to down load if available.
 
Bushings reveal party!!! They're all toast.

First up are the shocks... Rears top/bottom, top/bottom. Then fronts just tops. Couldn't get clear pics of bottom. Note the last shock top pic is the left shock that's also dangling at its bottom connection, and this top of it seems to be missing it's washer. So strange.

Then there's all four leaf spring bushings.

Then there's the left side mid area joints and same for the right. I believe this is the aftermarket transmission mount/bracket piece, and then whatever joint that is just next to it. The transmission mount just needs to be entirely replaced as its rotted away at each end. The middle is fine, it's just these ends.

Last there's all four angles of the front wheels.

Obviously all these bushings need to be replaced. This is in addition to the body mounts of course. Anybody have a recommendations for buying full sets of suspension bushings?
Also, what other suspension bushings am i not catching? Are there any at the rear wheels?

When buying shocks, perhaps they come with bushing and hardware?


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It seems smartest to just order a complete set of suspension bushings.. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/62022
And see how much i can install DIY.

I didnt think the steering angle looks too terrible. Definitely an aftermarket drop pitman arm in addition to what is listed above. Aftermarket transmission crossmember and radius arm brackets.

I'm having trouble determining what the compatibility is with the aftermarket radius arm bracket though. Would the OEM bushing size fit this particular aftermarket radius arm and its bracket? I suppose i could try to pin down the make and model of the arms and brackets.

Separately from that complete suspension bushing package, i also need to solve the transmission crossmember situation. What i'm starting to gather is that this aftermarket transmission crossmember allows for flex-mobility instead of being rigid with the frame. Hence on the OEM crossmember brackets it's just bolted and not a system with bushings. If so, then the best plan is to figure out the exact model of the crossmember and replace the whole thing.
 
That is a factory transmission cross member. 1st gens used that and newer models had a solid mount. Can't get bushings for it so the solid mount is preferable. Not like it flexes much anyway.

You have a Rancho lift. I recognize the radius arms and drop brackets. Not the best thing out there, but it was safe unless you like jumping or rock crawling.

I have a set of the same extended radius arms. Trying to decide if I wanna use them. Apparently they rub the tire when turning? Does yours?
 

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