2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[MadMax_636]

I am glad you got your meter out. I think you are getting it. Think of the wires as water pipes with water flowing through them. Think of the battery as a container of water with a pump.

Your meter is measuring the water pressure (voltage) at different points in the system. You are just looking for the point where you are losing pressure (voltage).

So when you try to crank it, you are demanding a lot of water pressure. You are not getting it. So you just need to put your meter on the negative post of the battery, and start probing the wires (water pipes) starting at the battery. Problem is, unless you have it rigged up you need help to demand pressure from the system to be able to check it properly. You need someone in there turning the key to start while you are holding the meter on the battery and other places.

So if you were able to put your meter right on the battery posts, and tried to crank it and the voltage went to 6 volts after being on the charger all night, I agree your battery is no good.

Yeah, The battery is wired all up the same as it was yesterday. I haven't changed anything. I just yanked the battery and popped it on the charger. Would you happen to know a good place that has the best price for a battery? Since I've got an interstate battery. I didn't know if they are good or if a specific auto parts store sells batteries. NOTE: Im not brand loyal unless Ive got a coupon lol. I go where the price is right.

I cant wait until I get this beast running. That just means once shes running. The sooner I can get around to rebuilding the motor and restoring it. I wanna get her look new under the hood and nice ish inside the cab and like a beat up POS on the outside.

 

[AndyB.]

I think you should get the cheapest battery you can get quickly.

Some brands are better than others. I got 16 years out of a Motorcraft battery. I only replaced it because it was leaking around the negative post and I got tired of cleaning it.

 

[MadMax_636]

I think you should get the cheapest battery you can get quickly.

Some brands are better than others. I got 16 years out of a Motorcraft battery. I only replaced it because it was leaking around the negative post and I got tired of cleaning it.

Ill look around, Hopefully, I can find one at a good price. O'Reilly auto shows 2 different options. Group size 56 and 64. I don't know the difference and which I should get.

Also, Where on earth would I get a Motorcraft? Im assuming at the dealer but I've never seen a Motorcraft battery before.

 

[franklin2]

You can't beat a Walmart battery for price. They claim there is only 3 or 4 different manufacturers of car batteries anyway, even though there are hundreds of different brands and names.

 

[RobbieD]

I found that WalMart had the best deal for a battery.

I replaced my (2.8L) 84's battery last year. According to my notes, a group size 62 was the original replacement. My other trucks (1990-1994) take a larger group size 65 battery.

 

[AndyB.]

Batteries for these get confusing. The original size battery (I forget which size) is no longer made; it is substituted by a group 56 (similar dimensions, but if you track down NOS battery hold down hardware, it won’t work and it only partially fills the tray.

There was an optional group 64 battery, that fills the tray and allows you to use the original mounting hardware. It was a heavy duty battery option, that’s what I have in mine. It was kind of hard to find, I had to special order a Deka.

Motorcraft parts can be found at parts stores, not just dealerships. It looks like they still make a group 56, but not a 64.

 

[MadMax_636]

I found that WalMart had the best deal for a battery.

I replaced my (2.8L) 84's battery last year. According to my notes, a group size 62 was the original replacement. My other trucks (1990-1994) take a larger group size 65 battery.

I agree with you on that Walmart has the best deal. Napa, has the weirdest selection on their website, O'Reilly has 2 options, walmart only has 1 The one you spoke of, Advanced Autos site sucks so I couldnt check it.

 

[MadMax_636]

Batteries for these get confusing. The original size battery (I forget which size) is no longer made; it is substituted by a group 56 (similar dimensions, but if you track down NOS battery hold down hardware, it won’t work and it only partially fills the tray.

There was an optional group 64 battery, that fills the tray and allows you to use the original mounting hardware. It was a heavy duty battery option, that’s what I have in mine. It was kind of hard to find, I had to special order a Deka.

Motorcraft parts can be found at parts stores, not just dealerships. It looks like they still make a group 56, but not a 64.

Yeah, I looked it up. I've never really seen them in the stores before. I guess that's why I didn't know they were a thing. They seem to be ultra heavy-duty and long-lasting with a long warranty.

Walmart seems to only have a 56 group. That should be fine? Especially since its only $99.99. O'Reillys has the 56 and 65 for the same price weirdly.

 

[AndyB.]

I’d guess 90% of these trucks are running with a group 56. If they were the same price, I’d get a 64–but I don’t think it will really matter.

 

[RobbieD]

A group 56 should be fine; it was also listed as a direct replacement when I shopped for my replacement.

FWIW, I ended up replacing my 84's battery a new group 65 battery. It will fit the stock tray, but you have to remove the original hold-down hardware and fab a new hold-down. I went that route, as it made all of my trucks having the same size battery, it gave me more CCA, and it was actually the cheapest option at the time (out the door at WalMart for about $50, after core trade in of the old smaller battery).

Your best option, though, is probably just get the group 56, a direct replacement, and be done with it. You've got a lot going on already.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Has anyone suggested doing a voltage drop test on the starting circuit? If you have a bad connection or wire this test will find it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

And take your battery in to get a load test done on it. No need to buy a new one if this one is still good.

The battery needs to be fully charged for this test. Do an overnight charge on it just before getting it tested. The test takes ten seconds. Most places won't charge you for the test.

 

[MadMax_636]

Has anyone suggested doing a voltage drop test on the starting circuit? If you have a bad connection or wire this test will find it.

I did test it. I tested the voltage whenever the key was off and on. As well as turning the interior and exterior lights on and off.
The post that the starter wire is hooked to has zero voltage. Even when turning the key to start.

With the key on. The voltage dropped very low. From 12.50v to roughly around 8v down to 4v. I can't remember how low it went. When I did the key to on as well as turning the lights on and such. The lights went dim to the point they were off. I tested my headlights and dome light and one of my headlights was on and the other was off.

The starter solenid kept clicking not matter what I did. I didn't change anything with the wiring. It worked yesterday and cranked but from the sound of the starter. The battery was dropping in charge.

Also, All of this that was done today was right after I came off the charger. I let it charge overnight. So I didn't have to worry about it dropping overnight. Plus, It was charging when I went to bed.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A voltage drop test is different. You are testing the connection. So if you have a good connection then there will be almost no voltage showing on the meter.
Watch the video.

 

[MadMax_636]

A voltage drop test is different. You are testing the connection. So if you have a good connection then there will be almost no voltage showing on the meter.
Watch the video.

I tested it on the battery. I tested the posts to see if they were even getting power.
When I was doing my tests. I did it with my multimeter picks on the battery.

I know its not a connection issue because I cleaned my starter and bell housing mating surfaces. Ive also got a brand new ground wire with a nice clean connecting. I even unplugged my HEI with the key ON and the power drop was still there but went up very little.