2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[MadMax_636]

Got it. Get the ignition system working before seeing if you need a rebuild. You wouldn’t want to be wondering why it won’t start—engine mechanical or ignition. The threads in the aluminum intake look like they could be cleaned up with a 6mm rethreading die. If they get stripped, a helicoil would fix it.

Here’s an unsolicited picture of what environment that bolt is living in—it needs to come out. Original bolt is magnetic, btw.

Thank you so damn much dude! Thanks for the reinsurance and that helped me feel better! I mean that! Im gonna go to get a tweezer kit and hopefully they will have small enough magnet stick that will fit.

Im gonna get that rethread die tomorrow as well! So a 6mm is what I need to use for sure? Im sure they come in a kit so id be fine.

I circled where I think it fell into. Which still isn't good.

 

[RobbieD]

I hate seeing this truck fight you so hard.

There's been many a time, where I've had to just walk away from a job not going right. Otherwise (I learned the hard way) I would start destroying shit. And, I think that every one of us has been in the same place.

A tap and die set is a good investment, as is a telescoping magnet pick up tool. A seal pick is also a handy tool for fishing out dropped parts.

 

[MadMax_636]

I hate seeing this truck fight you so hard.

There's been many a time, where I've had to just walk away from a job not going right. Otherwise (I learned the hard way) I would start destroying shit. And, I think that every one of us has been in the same place.

A tap and die set is a good investment, as is a telescoping magnet pick up tool. A seal pick is also a handy tool for fishing out dropped parts.

Yeah, I've got a pick and hook kit but a tweezer kit will come in SUPER handy. For some time (Like today) the pick and hook kept pushing it around making it more of a PITA. I'll get the tap and die and just send it through the messed up threads. I might have to remove the throttle cable bracket. Hopefully, it's not pain the ass to do. I really don't like dealing with helicoils. I've just never liked dealing with them. Only for the fact that is a spring-like thing inside "threads" Plus, they seem to cost a bit sometimes.

Yall are some awesome people! @AndyB. @RobbieD @franklin2! I would have probably gone mad doing this alone! The reisurance yall have given me is awesome! Thank you from the bottom of my heart!

 

[AndyB.]

There aren’t too many places where it can fall through down into the crankcase. Good luck.

 

[AndyB.]

The throttle cable bracket—are the there just two bolts holding that to the EGR spacer?

 

[MadMax_636]

There aren’t too many places where it can fall through down into the crankcase. Good luck.

Thanks! Ive found a pretty small magnet on a stick at harbor fart im gonna get. Hopefully, it or the tweezers will work out.
Today has just been a PURE nightmare. Yall helped me calm down greatly! Giving hope it'll all be good and I can fix it!

 

[MadMax_636]

The throttle cable bracket—are the there just two bolts holding that to the EGR spacer?

I think so. It looks to be attached to the back of the EGR spacer. I was gonna ask. Can I just remove the EGR spacer and put a normal car spacer? Gasket and a nice sized spacer? Just so I don't have to worry about the EGR leaking? Since Ive got shims acting as the block offs but it had a small slit on the top that was open. So I put a paper towel over it in hopes it would "seal" it better.

 

[AndyB.]

Leave the EGR spacer on, but you can unbolt the accelerator cable bracket to make it easier to access the valve cover bolt.

The EGR block will improve performance by giving a longer runner length and more time for the fuel vapor to mix with the air.

A vacuum leak could lean out the mixture enough to stop the engine from running and to cause a backfire there the carburetor. An open 1/8” vacuum port can prevent the engine from idling. An opening where the EGR valve mounts to the spacer would likely prevent the engine from starting. If it was me, I’d spend $1 on a new gasket and reinstall the EGR valve but not connect vacuum to it.

Did you ever get black rubber vacuum caps to cover all the ports coming off the EGR spacer? Where did you get vacuum for the advance on the distributor?

 

[MadMax_636]

Leave the EGR spacer on, but you can unbolt the accelerator cable bracket to make it easier to access the valve cover bolt.

The EGR block will improve performance by giving a longer runner length and more time for the fuel vapor to mix with the air.

A vacuum leak could lean out the mixture enough to stop the engine from running and to cause a backfire there the carburetor. An open 1/8” vacuum port can prevent the engine from idling. An opening where the EGR valve mounts to the spacer would likely prevent the engine from starting. If it was me, I’d spend $1 on a new gasket and reinstall the EGR valve but not connect the vacuum to it.

Did you ever get black rubber vacuum caps to cover all the ports coming off the EGR spacer? Where did you get a vacuum for the advance on the distributor?

Yeah, I got the caps at advanced auto. Pretty good price for the amount compared to Amazon and how long id has to wait.
Everything on the tree is capped besides the one for the brakes. When I removed the EGR there wasn't a gasket. So IDK if that means it was capped off already. It was SUPER gummed and filthy. I've seen EGR block off plates online. I'd rather not put the filth filled EGR back on unless I had it. I will most likely put it back on. frank said they leak when they fail. idk if mine has failed yet. That's my main worry.

When you asked about the vacuum for the advance. Do you mean the vacuum line? I did get a line but I had to zip tie it to keep it tight. I did a vacuum test it. It doesn't leak. It holds a vacuum. I might get a smaller line (Not shorter)

 

[RobbieD]

Everything on the tree is capped besides the one for the brakes.

Is your PCV valve in place?

If not, its vacuum port needs to be capped. And I can't remember, but there may be another port or two on the manifold below the carb; make sure you don't have any open ports that AREN'T on the vacuum tree.

If the PCV valve is in place, make sure it's working right. When I first started mine after Durasparking, it backfired, and then I couldn't get it to stay running even after getting the timing close enough. Damn near drove me crazy (crazier?) until I found that the backfires had blown my PCV valve apart, which gave the motor a huge vacuum leak.

 

[AndyB.]

The test for a leaking EGR valve... once the engine is running... at idle, apply vacuum to the EGR valve, the engine should stumble. If it doesn’t, the valve is plugged.

Some day when you pull the intake and heads, I bet you’ll find a solid chunk of carbon blocking the flow of exhaust gas to the spacer.

The plunger is sprung loaded, you can push it in and try to clean it with some carburetor cleaner.

You’re missing pretty much everything that is required for that valve to function. I’d get a new gasket and put in back. Once you get it running, think about it you need it gone.

 

[MadMax_636]

Is your PCV valve in place?

If not, its vacuum port needs to be capped. And I can't remember, but there may be another port or two on the manifold below the carb; make sure you don't have any open ports that AREN'T on the vacuum tree.

If the PCV valve is in place, make sure it's working right. When I first started mine after Durasparking, it backfired, and then I couldn't get it to stay running even after getting the timing close enough. Damn near drove me crazy (crazier?) until I found that the backfires had blown my PCV valve apart, which gave the motor a huge vacuum leak.

Everything on the carb is capped off. The only thing that isn't capped in the manifold pressure point. Which I have my vacuum gauge hooked up to.

 

[MadMax_636]

The test for a leaking EGR valve... once the engine is running... at idle, apply vacuum to the EGR valve, the engine should stumble. If it doesn’t, the valve is plugged.

Some day when you pull the intake and heads, I bet you’ll find a solid chunk of carbon blocking the flow of exhaust gas to the spacer.

The plunger is sprung loaded, you can push it in and try to clean it with some carburetor cleaner.

You’re missing pretty much everything that is required for that valve to function. I’d get a new gasket and put in back. Once you get it running, think about it you need it gone.

How would I get a gasket for it? When I removed it, It didn't have a gasket.

 

[AndyB.]

From your auto parts dealer?

 

[MadMax_636]

From your auto parts dealer?

Thanks! I was confused as there wasn't a gasket when I took it off. I didn't know there even was a gasket for it. Thanks! I should have looked on Rockauto.