2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[MadMax_636]

The missing retainer isn’t anything to worry about.

I think the distributor remanufacturer is trying to cover themselves. If the oil pump seizes up, the roll pin or distributor drive gear can be damaged—you didn’t have either of those conditions.

Today we had REALLY BAD STORMS all day. So I couldnt even touch my truck sadly. It was a lazy boring day.
Tomorrow im gonna start working on it. Im gonna try cleaning out the dist port/hole. Ive got some seafoam stuff.... I might use it to rinse the port/hole out after cleaning it. Thats after I get the bit chunks/large bleh out. Would that be safe/smart?

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I got the dist in and cleaned the engine bay. I removed the AC and PS system. Mainly because its all dead.

Now its ready for wiring. yay! I will be doing a EGR block off but I have some starter shims and I found that they fit over the ports without drilling. I might need to get some sort of gasket or gasket maker to seal it up 100%

The videos below will go more into detail. I will also be posting a video of the redneck block off.

 

[AndyB.]

The EGR valve, without a vacuum source will do a better job of sealing that port than your plate.

 

[MadMax_636]

The EGR valve, without a vacuum source will do a better job of sealing that port than your plate.

So the EGR is basically sealed when plugged? Alright, Ill remount it then. Would there be a better way to make a cleaner looking block off? I just thought of the shims since I had them laying around and they are the same size. I was thinking about putting gasket making around them to help seal but I didnt know what was best.

What did you think of the videos? Mainly the part about the heatsink mounting as well as my delete of the pump and compressor since I said I pulled a bolt and it was coated in oil (Not leaking) just coated. So I put it back in.

I just wanted more space and since neither work. The AC system was full is light powder rust as if moisture got it and yeah...

now its time for wiring and fixing that starter. Also, what about my dist situation?

 

[AndyB.]

When all components were present and working, under certain driving conditions, the computer would energize a solenoid on the passenger side inner fender, which would route vacuum to the diaphragm or the EGR valve. This would open the spring loaded pintle in the valve, allowing a small amount of exhaust gas to flow from the cylinder heads, through ports in the intake manifold, through the EGR spacer, where it would be introduced into the intake below the base of the carburetor. Since the exhaust has contains no oxygen, it’s effectively inert, will lower combustion temperature, and reduce NOx emissions. It’s a neat setup, but you’re missing 90% of what’s required to make it work.

I would reinstall the power steering pump and hook up the hoses, but leave the belt off of the pump is inoperable. I worry about a lack of lubricant in the steering gear and dirt/water entering the steering gear with the lines disconnected.

I’m afraid I can’t advise on the HEI setup/duraspark distributor. I have no idea how they’re designed to work.

 

[AndyB.]

Oh, that weird that that’s really loose—that is what’s remaining of a carburetor preheat system. When complete, the computer would send vacuum or a diaphragm on the cold air intake that would pull air from around the exhaust manifold rather than from the ram air intake in the core support. This would improve drivability during cold weather starts—again, a neat setup, but you’re missing 90% of what is needed to make it work.

 

[MadMax_636]

I would reinstall the power steering pump and hook up the hoses, but leave the belt off of the pump is inoperable. I worry about a lack of lubricant in the steering gear and dirt/water entering the steering gear with the lines disconnected.

What if I fill the lines and cap them off? Making it sealed right?

The only reason I removed it was because It took up a lot of space and didnt work. So I didnt see any need of it being there. The pump was pretty much bone dry.

 

[franklin2]

I think you are biting off more than you can chew. I would do all this in baby steps. Your priority should be getting the engine running, you can do all that other stuff as little projects. But oh well;

If you are going to run manual steering, you need a manual steering box. I suppose they had that option, they did on the f150's. It's designed to run without the pump, the power steering box is not. But that can be a later project, your steering is going to be lousy till then.

I would go ahead and put your shims under the EGR and mount it up so it's sealed off. You know what the main failure mode of the EGR valve is? Leaking. I would block it off, you can clean it up and make it look better later. When it leaks it causes a rough idle if you can get it to idle at all. That's why I don't like EGR valves.

 

[MadMax_636]

I think you are biting off more than you can chew. I would do all this in baby steps. Your priority should be getting the engine running, you can do all that other stuff as little projects. But oh well;

If you are going to run manual steering, you need a manual steering box. I suppose they had that option, they did on the f150's. It's designed to run without the pump, the power steering box is not. But that can be a later project, your steering is going to be lousy till then.

I would go ahead and put your shims under the EGR and mount it up so it's sealed off. You know what the main failure mode of the EGR valve is? Leaking. I would block it off, you can clean it up and make it look better later. When it leaks it causes a rough idle if you can get it to idle at all. That's why I don't like EGR valves.

Yeah, I didnt have PS from when I bought the truck. All of my other cars never had it. Either because it was dead or came from the factory like that. So not having PS is normal for me. It was leaking from both of the lines. You pour fluid in. it would just run right out.

I am gonna get a manual box at some point. Kinda hard to find. My uncle also told me to get a manual steering rack.

EGR: Should I put some sort of gasket or 100% seal it up? Since it with the shims it did have a small opening on the top from the ports. I just held the shims up and tightened it lightly to keep it in place.


Yeah, I know I did a lot of stuff that was un needed. I just wanted to get it out of the way as it didnt work. Never did work since I owned the truck. Didnt see any harm in it.

The AC system had rust in it. Like a fine powder.

 

[AndyB.]

I would reinstall the power steering pump and hoses, fill it up with type F ATF.

 

[AndyB.]

Why don’t you just get a vacuum cap assortment like this?

Amazon.com: Dorman Help! 47396 Vacuum Cap Asst: Automotive

Buy Dorman Help! 47396 Vacuum Cap Asst: Caps - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[MadMax_636]

Why don’t you just get a vacuum cap assortment like this?

Amazon.com: Dorman Help! 47396 Vacuum Cap Asst: Automotive

Buy Dorman Help! 47396 Vacuum Cap Asst: Caps - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Because it wont get here until May 16th. A lot of stuff on amazon is like that. Like the Timing light.

I was gonna get this but it was gonna come later than I needed it. https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Piece-Vacuum-Cap-Assortment/dp/B008DZSZK6/?tag=959media-20

Ill get some at the auto parts store.

 

[MadMax_636]

I think you are biting off more than you can chew. I would do all this in baby steps. Your priority should be getting the engine running, you can do all that other stuff as little projects. But oh well;

If you are going to run manual steering, you need a manual steering box. I suppose they had that option, they did on the f150's. It's designed to run without the pump, the power steering box is not. But that can be a later project, your steering is going to be lousy till then.

I would go ahead and put your shims under the EGR and mount it up so it's sealed off. You know what the main failure mode of the EGR valve is? Leaking. I would block it off, you can clean it up and make it look better later. When it leaks it causes a rough idle if you can get it to idle at all. That's why I don't like EGR valves.

Did you watch the videos? Somewhere I showed the intact cables. I also showed the one that was broke. You were mistaken about the one you thought I broke. The one that broke went to the alternator. The plastic connector was melted together somehow. All of the other ones are 100% intact gladly. Also, Whats the best way to tackle the heatsink situation? That small door in the top center of the engine bay or on one of the inner fenders? I might also see if I can find a AMD Ryzen heatsink. idk how the fan will hold up but its got a nice sized aluminum heatsink and a powerful fan on it. I can just run long screws through the fins of the heatsink and somehow screw/bolt them onto the the fender. Thats of course after I mount the HEI and put thermal paste on it. Just dont know what the best way to mount it.

 

[franklin2]

I just mounted mine on the driver's side inner fender. That is where the wires are that you need also. All you need is a flat piece of aluminum to bolt it to.

 

[franklin2]

I watched your first video. 3/4 of the way through you did a quick inventory of the plugs over there on the driver's side. What happened to the round plug in the picture below?