2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[AndyB.]

Yes, look for this and cap the metal nipples on the tree, not the vacuum lines.

 

[MadMax_636]

You are looking for the "tree" shown below, which screws into the manifold behind and below the carb.
View attachment 40110

Follow @AndyB. 's advice, and remove the hoses and cap the open tubes on the tree. In this picture, pointing toward the camera is an open tube, left, and a capped tube to the right of it. Caps would be best, but for temporary testing you can wrap electrical tape around the tree to close the tubes. An open tube is a vacuum leak.

I capped them off, or tried to cap them off. I started the truck up and no change. Not that I was thinking there would be. The caps I had were either too small or too bit to fit over them.

 

[AndyB.]

One open 1/8” port will pull enough air to cause the engine to stall at idle. You can get a variety pack of caps at an auto parts store in the help aisle for a few bucks.

As suggested earlier, try some electric tape to cap them as a diagnostic step.

 

[MadMax_636]

Rock auto list for the mod.

 

[MadMax_636]

One open 1/8” port will pull enough air to cause the engine to stall at idle. You can get a variety pack of caps at an auto parts store in the help aisle for a few bucks.

As suggested earlier, try some electric tape to cap them as a diagnostic step.

I will once Im able to. At the moment its getting a bit to late to really go to any shops.
I also posted the list of the parts I found on rockauto for the duraspark mod. So if im missing anything yall can chime in.

My truck also has a dumb starter issue. Where the starter will slowly move away from the flywheel. So I have to remove and reinstall it and push it closer. I need to fabricate a bracket to keep it from moving. So my starter moved enough to not make contact with the ring gear....

 

[RobbieD]

In a pinch, a wine cork can be used to plug a vacuum port; I don't remember how I figured that out, it was just there on the vac tree when I woke up . . .

 

[MadMax_636]

In a pinch, a wine cork can be used to plug a vacuum port; I don't remember how I figured that out, it was just there on the vac tree when I woke up . . .

Probably one the better things to wake up to from drinking lol

That sounds like it would work great but getting the size right would be the tricky part. You want it to be snug on there and not loose as it could fall off when the motor is off. Had that happen to me once. Not fun. It was on the main manifold. Put a larger cap since it was "easy" to put on and off. Went to start the truck and it fell off.....

 

[RobbieD]

I'll look over your parts list closer, and see if I can come up with anything to add. Looks like you've got the main items covered, and if I come up with any suggestions it will be small parts. I think you're well on the path to getting the truck running again, but that sucks about the starter. Have I mentioned, that your luck runs like mine?

Oh yeah; about an earlier post of yours. The conversion is honestly VERY little wire cutting; it's mainly "unplug and remove".

 

[MadMax_636]

I'll look over your parts list closer, and see if I can come up with anything to add. Looks like you've got the main items covered, and if I come up with any suggestions it will be small parts. I think you're well on the path to getting the truck running again, but that sucks about the starter. Have I mentioned, that your luck runs like mine?

Oh yeah; about an earlier post of yours. The conversion is honestly VERY little wire cutting; it's mainly "unplug and remove".

Yeah, I bought the truck knowing the starter was an issue. Its just became a thing Ive learned to deal with. Hopefully soon I can get a bracket made to help it.

Really? I cant remember posting a photo of her on here. Heres a full photo of her Pre-sister backing into her.

 

[franklin2]

I didn't buy the distributor from Rockauto. They did not have the best price believe or not. I think I got mine from Oreilly's. I just did a google search and put in cardone 302691 and O reillys has it for $74.99 and a $5 core charge. So that is $80 versus $104 at rockauto plus shipping.

You did say you wanted to do this cheap, money is tight correct? I am a total cheapskate.

Cheap way to do it;

Distributor from OReillys for $80

Cap adapter from rockauto for $2.57

Rotor rockauto for $2.40

Cap rockauto $5.05

GM HEI ignition module rockauto $13.17

If you use the GM HEI module, you do not need the duraspark II module and you can keep using your original square coil. If you want to look up the module, just plug in a 1979 chevy monte carlo with a 305 v8.

I just did this swap also, it works well, and I am using my stock 2bbl carb not modified at all.

I picked up what you said about the choke. If your carb is the original style, it should have a fully electric choke. You need to look into this and get it hooked up correctly so it works. I have mine hooked into the white/black wire going to the alternator, and it works fine there.

 

[MadMax_636]

I didn't buy the distributor from Rockauto. They did not have the best price believe or not. I think I got mine from Oreilly's. I just did a google search and put in cardone 302691 and O reillys has it for $74.99 and a $5 core charge. So that is $80 versus $104 at rockauto plus shipping.

You did say you wanted to do this cheap, money is tight correct? I am a total cheapskate.

Cheap way to do it;

Distributor from OReillys for $80

Cap adapter from rockauto for $2.57

Rotor rockauto for $2.40

Cap rockauto $5.05

GM HEI ignition module rockauto $13.17

If you use the GM HEI module, you do not need the duraspark II module and you can keep using your original square coil. If you want to look up the module, just plug in a 1979 chevy monte carlo with a 305 v8.

I just did this swap also, it works well, and I am using my stock 2bbl carb not modified at all.

I picked up what you said about the choke. If your carb is the original style, it should have a fully electric choke. You need to look into this and get it hooked up correctly so it works. I have mine hooked into the white/black wire going to the alternator, and it works fine there.

Thanks! Did you have to order the distributor at ORilies? Im sure they dont carry it in stores.
Also, Whats with people using the GM HEI module? Ive seen ane heard people say to use it with a heatsink and some dont use it with a heatsink. Ive also heard the Ford modules are CRAP. Like a friend on youtube went through like 4 of the ford until he switched to the GM and another guy on YouTube said he had issues with the GM not working right.

Whats wrong with my hot air choke? Do I need to have a electric choke? Ive never had any issues with my hot air.

Thanks for helping me with the parts! Ill do all of that!

 

[franklin2]

If you have a hot air choke, and it's hooked up, use it. All the Ford hot air chokes I have seen have a pipe coming up from the exhaust manifold hooked directly to the choke housing through a fitting. There is a controlled vacuum leak inside the choke housing that pulls the hot air up the tube and into the choke housing. I don't see it working correctly otherwise. And if your carb has this setup, it's not the original carb for your engine, the original carb had a fully electric choke. You have a little mystery going on there with that.

You can run the duraspark II module. You are correct to get another coil if you do run it. And actually, if you do get the duraspark II ignition module, it will plug right in, plug and play. These trucks and Bronco's used a 4 cylinder that used the duraspark II system, so the wiring harness is setup already to accept it. If this appeals to you, then go ahead and go that route. You can see if rockauto sells the horsehoe connector for the coil. The proper duraspark II coil has two pins on it, not threaded connections. I know some parts stores sell the connector you need to use it, and you should.

The stories you read about the duraspark II problems can be true if non stock coils and a primary resistor is not used in the coil circuit. If you get the proper coil, and your factory harness will already have the resistor, then this system is fairly reliable.

 

[RobbieD]

Just to add what @franklin2 is relating, I've heard that some people like the GM HEI module better, but I have no experience with it. I used the Ford ignition control module and haven't had any problems.

Also, in the 10 years since I did the conversion I've at different times ran the original square coil and a can (round) coil that I had; they both worked fine for me with the Ford ICM.

If you choke works now, there's no sense in fixing it.

Be aware- one thing about buying from RockAuto these days, is the shipping can be expensive. When buying a group of parts, if they ship from multiple warehouses you'll be paying multiple shipping charges. On a group of inexpensive parts, you may pay more for the damn shipping than you spent on the parts themselves.
>>> When pricing stuff from Rock, I always take the total shown on the checkout, shipping added to the parts cost, and then use that TOTAL to comparison shop at buying locally. More on this follows.

Buying any parts these days is more of a crap shoot. Quality control has really gone to shit. If you have to warranty exchange a part, going to the parts store is a bummer, but shipping it back and waiting is an even bigger bummer. There is a lot to be said these days about developing a "good customer" relationship with a local parts store.

EGR elimination- on mine I made a block-off plate for the EGR valve (you can see it in the picture I posted). All that takes is a suitable-size piece of scrap flat steel, a grinder and a drill.

Finally, I looked over your list, and at this point the only recommendations I have would be for the "small stuff". Think ahead on what you'll need for wire connections (especially if you choose the GM HEI). Insulated crimp connectors can work well for the "casual electrician"; do you have a crimper tool and terminals already? You'll need electrical tape, and if you can swing it (I know you're tight on the budget) getting some new Convoluted Wire Loom will let you dress out the new wiring really well (otherwise you can tape-wrap it). Masking tape- to label things (with a Sharpie); and when removing and sorting the old wiring, I used masking tape to temporarily bundle the few "keeper wires".

Sorry about the novel; Jim pays me per word.

 

[franklin2]

Here's the coil connector. Autozone has it for $6.99. Part number 252. It has to be ordered. Yes the distributor will have to be ordered also. I have found almost nothing for a 2.8 in any local store, it all has to be ordered. You are a pretty weird person to still be running a 2.8 Ford v6. I will re-word that. You are a "special" person to be still running a 2.8 cologne v6.

 

[MadMax_636]

Here's the coil connector. Autozone has it for $6.99. Part number 252. It has to be ordered. Yes the distributor will have to be ordered also. I have found almost nothing for a 2.8 in any local store, it all has to be ordered. You are a pretty weird person to still be running a 2.8 Ford v6. I will re-word that. You are a "special" person to be still running a 2.8 cologne v6.

Why do you say its weird that im still running the original 2.8L V6? I like. Its simple, does what I need, hasn't given me a single issue until now.
She's a great motor. She's also lightweight and still has a carb. Id take a carb over EFI any day. Since its less to worry about and it works fine for me. haha