96 4.0 Explorer XLT 4x4 Getting it back on the road

[Josh B]

In the first pic... That looks like an aftermarket alarm, not part of a sound system.

Second pic... That’s the shift indicator adjuster. All that does is move the PRNDL indicator. It has no effect on the actual shifting of the trans.
Dig a little deeper and make sure all the bolts are there and tight on the shift tube.
View attachment 35420
Fu(k that black wire at the ign tumbler... that’s just for the “you left the key in the ign” chime.

Could it be I adjusted the bottom one first and should have gone the other direction maybe?

Maybe keep tinkering with it till I find the right combination?

 

[Josh B]

Those big photos are hard to deal with, but if I use the insert file instead, it bunches them all at the bottom of the post :/

 

[Josh B]

I had to go for a speed reply last night as this was really being a hold up, more info on the Shift Lever and Cable Adjustments thread @ https://www.therangerstation.com/fo...er-and-cable-adjustments.184913/#post-1714058

So today I tore into the shifter and transmission cable adjustments. As Dirtman had emphasized I checked the bolts on the shifter tube, tightened them up just a bit, and noticed a bushing out of place on the lever shaft

Dammm this thing is a mess down in there :/ I backed off the screws and pushed the bushing back into place, tightened it down and went onward with adjustment attempts. After a bit of messing around with it I noticed the bushing had already begun slipping back out again

I began tinkering with a zip tie, several still laying there from yesterdays tightening up the cable, hoping that would help hold it in place, but then noticed that flange around the bushing and realized they must have the thing in there upside down. I began working on getting the shaft free enough to slip it off the end and flip it. After working with it a while it occurred to me it could have a slit of some kind and spun it over. Sure enough!

Flipped it right over and it all began to fit in place

Put the hold down strap back and now I think it'll stay there!
By then I was in a race with daylight and didn't get any more photos, but I did get it adjusted best I could and put back together.
Started it up up and tested my latest attempt at getting it adjusted, it still isn't perfect but now has what I need to get by, plus in addition to R, N, and D, I now can grab Park! A very important consideration as it has precious little excuse of a parking brake :/ That is very high up on the list of priorities though

Tomorrow there's still a good day left to get over to the Pick-N-Pay to see if any chances exist there for a second transmission. With any luck at all maybe I can find something else to limp around on till I can get one of them in better condition

 

[4.0blue98]

Must be a weak point with these things. Any other column shift I've used has had real firm detents. My 98 goes into all the positions but they're all like mush. Been like that for the 17 years I've had it. I've checked the adjuster and the bushing too but no help.

 

[Josh B]

Must be a weak point with these things. Any other column shift I've used has had real firm detents. My 98 goes into all the positions but they're all like mush. Been like that for the 17 years I've had it. I've checked the adjuster and the bushing too but no help.

It's possible I missed something in replacing the valve body. The plunger thing that meshes with the shift lever, not sure if I messed up there or not, seemed to be the only way it could work at the time

 

[Josh B]

It's been a while since updating this and I may have forgotten a few things gone on since.

Today I lifted the wheels off the ground all around, had to lift the rear anyway to check the pinion and rear bearings, so I lifted the front also to check the 4wd. Had it aimed towards a fence row and went in underneath the back axle. Used a rubber hose and listened to all the bearings but none seemed to be making any noises at all, and they all felt plenty snug afterwards. The rear brakes need attention though, and the E brake doesn't seem to hold at all. It's a disc system.

The rear-end is definitely un-limited slip :/ Wish I had got the codes off the 98 at pickNpay, the rear springs need changed anyway.

The 4WD was slow to engage, the RF finally came in with a clunk but the LF never kicked in at all, guess that'll all need to be torn down and inspected. I'm not even sure sure how this system works so will need to study in to that.

I've had these codes lately
P0715 Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor (Confirmed)
P0174 Bank 2 Lean (Confirmed)
P0153 Oxygen Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (Pending)

 

[Josh B]

This evening I was coming back from town just after dark and did a steady 70 for about 15 miles, then turned and did 60 about 5, then before turning onto the dirt roads I stopped still on the highway from 60 and walked around to look at the Catalytic Converter.

It was glowing red as if it was in a furnace. I only looked at the back, forward it was covered up with cross members and skid plates.

Then I drove home on the dirt roads about a mile and a half going slower. After parking walked around and looked and it wasn't glowing then

 

[1996xlt]

The 4WD was slow to engage, the RF finally came in with a clunk but the LF never kicked in at all, guess that'll all need to be torn down and inspected. I'm not even sure sure how this system works so will need to study in to that.

I may be speaking out of my ? on this, but the front end on the 96-97 trucks are open diffs (like the rear on yours) and the axles are locked in via a vacuum actuator. This guy explains it better: "...is a vacuum operated disconnect inside the front differential. Normally, one of the front axle shafts is disconnected from the differential, and therefor allows the front diff to be free-wheeling (sort-of), giving you 2wd.

When the dash switch is set to 4X4 (H or vacuum L), an electric shift motor shifts the transfer case into gear. At the same time, a vacuum solenoid sends manifold vacuum to the "vacuum disconnect" switch on the front differential. This in-turn uses that vacuum to engage the previously disconnected parts, making the front differential able to be "driven" by the t-case/front driveshaft. "

Source: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/auto-hubs-electric-or-vacuum.296559/

Ford switched the front diffs in 98 to a "live" axle (always locked) if you're looking for a bolt in upgrade.

 

[Josh B]

Actually I don't see any major component changes in the near future, I'll need to make do with what it's got, just hoping I can get it working because it's necessary this time of year.
I've done some studying into both systems and think this will do for my needs, although I have no practical experience with either one, so getting this one going will at least give me some knowledge of this type.

Some searching I did on the catalytic converter showed one guy on youtube who cleaned them two ways. One with lacquer thinner in the gas tank, then drive it through at highway speeds. Has anyone ever used this method, or would even try such as this?

Another was to soak it in soapy water and hopefully wash some of the gunk out of it. I've considered this with an additional replacing it with as much water still in it as possible and hope the steam helps.

Not sure my Ranger one would fit but I'd be will to try it, 93 Ranger/96 Explorer, but I believe the Explore has more heat shields on it

 

[Josh B]

While replacing the intake manifold gaskets the oil pressure gauge wire wound up on the wrong side of the engine. I finally found where it belongs(below the power steering pump) and while re-routing it back around, with the breather tube and AC both moved out of the way, I got a look at one reason for the vacuum leak. Couldn't see this with everything else in place

I pulled the upper intake back off and straightened it up but it still didn't want to stay in place. Wish I'd had another O-ring but
didn't get chance to order one beforehand. I pulled it into place with a zip-tie holding it and torqued it all back down

Looks ok but still wish I'd gotten a new one. It also is running a lot smoother now. I took it up to the corner(little over 1/4mile) and back, but haven't taken it out on the highway yet, looking forward to know how well it'll be doing.

Happy wrenching folks, I'm going to take a little chat break

 

[sgtsandman]

To make sure the leak is totally fixed. Hit the area with some brake cleaner. If the engine changes idle speed, there is still a leak.

 

[Josh B]

I got this sorted out a month or two back. After looking at the ignition specs in a Haynes I went out and gave mine another look. Seems I'd been steady tripping over the details somewhere between looking at the book, and working on the engine. The layout you see on the engine and what you see in book I think was the main tripping point, as they are Not the same. Also I think the 4-6-5 helped in the confusion, as I kept concentrating on that 6-5 spot reversal.
While I was constantly laying out the entire left bank backwards :/
Yep! The passenger side went well, 1-2-3, R to L, then I'd get off the crate and go to the other side, and while concentrating on getting that 6-5 reversal in the mix, also reversed the entire left bank firing order.
But, I always had that 5 right!
You read the firing order in the manual
Front to back
4 1
5 2
6 3
but on the coil pack it's read
5 1
6 2
4 3
Not very difficult for an AD/HD to get totally confused from one side to the other, not sure why it never happened on the Ranger, same engine.

Anyways, my gas mileage improved greatly, not sure if it caused any real severe permanent damage to the engine, but the first tank of gas lasted at least 3 times as long as they had before. And still it only gets 14 MPG! :/

The Ranger gets 21 !?
How is it the same engine in these two vehicles vary so greatly in mileage?

 

[Bgunner]

Good possibility it is a weight and aerodynamic issue causing the fuel milage difference.

Do you have a brake hanging up?

 

[Josh B]

No brake drag, one thing it will do is coast forever after letting off the gas