99 2.5 stand alone wiring harness questions.

[YungICY]

Hey guys and gals, I just picked up a 99 ranger with the 2.5l and m5r1 trans and I’m pulling the motor and trans to put in my 87 project truck.

I want to keep all of the factory fuel injection/ignition etc but I need some help with figuring out what parts of the cab/chassis wiring I need.

As of right now I have the cab off the frame with the drivetrain still in the frame. I left all of the engine harness in tact on the motor. The only wires I pulled from the cab/ chassis is the big plug that connects the engine harness to the chassis harness, a couple of ground wires, and the two big hot wires that go to the power distribution box.

I’m not worried about the grounds or the power distribution box as I’ll probably just make my own fuse/relay panel. My biggest concern is the big plug that connects the engine harness to the chassis harness. Do I need any of those connections or are those just for the dash and what not?

And can anyone point me to a source for a wiring diagram?

Below are attached pics.

First is just a general shot.
Second is the big plug that connects the engine harness to the chassis harness.
Third is the power dis box where I pulled the two big hot leads.
Fourth is the two big hot leads.
Fifth is the ecu still connected the engine harness.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tomw]

You may have luck with the wiring info at www.bbbind.com or your local library may have access to information online.(or in paper)
tom

 

[bobbywalter]

what are you intentions/goals?

are you going custom tune/turbo and prefer the eec5?


what engine was in the 87 originally?


is the 99 pats equipped?

is it returnless?

where are you located?

what happened to the powersteering pulley?


if the 87 is a 2.3...
i would use all of the 87 shit on this short block and be done.

even if i had to find the harness an pcm at the junkyards or build my own....


if you dont want the old stuff and prefer the eec5...
if it is pats equipped i would have that deleted even if i had the keys.


if its returnless use the entire fuel system. and the associated wiring to the tank.

keep the pdb and both sides of the pass thru if you want the interlock and starting systems to be normal. if its not pats. power up from the diode backside and put whatever type of crank power you want to the start side....vroom.

 

[bobbywalter]

buy the evtms for both trucks from helm.

 

[YungICY]

what are you intentions/goals?



are you going custom tune/turbo and prefer the eec5?





what engine was in the 87 originally?





is the 99 pats equipped?



is it returnless?



where are you located?



what happened to the powersteering pulley?





if the 87 is a 2.3...

i would use all of the 87 shit on this short block and be done.



even if i had to find the harness an pcm at the junkyards or build my own....





if you dont want the old stuff and prefer the eec5...

if it is pats equipped i would have that deleted even if i had the keys.





if its returnless use the entire fuel system. and the associated wiring to the tank.



keep the pdb and both sides of the pass thru if you want the interlock and starting systems to be normal. if its not pats. power up from the diode backside and put whatever type of crank power you want to the start side....vroom.

Let me clear up some of my unthought out original post.

Finished product for the truck is going to be this.

Equal length beams with d44 beam ends. Ford 9 inch rear with somewhere in the 5.00 series gears. Stock 2.5l and m5r1 out of the 99 for now until I get a trans and rebuild the 5.0 I have. It will be registered as a street legal ohv here in Utah. Electrical minus the factory engine harness I will wire myself.

Goal for the motor is for it to remain stock and run the stock eec5 and engine wiring harness and build off that harness what ever I need to (fuse/relay/switch panel, lighting, dash etc).

Original engine in the 87 was a 2.9l and auto 4wd trans. So not gonna be using any of that. That truck is actually stripped down to bare frame at the moment with mostly all the original stuff in the dumpster.

Not sure on PATS. I’ll have to double check but I don’t believe so.

Again not sure on if returnless or not. I did note a fpr on the fuel rail but didn’t pay attention beyond that.

Located in southern Utah, truck came out of AZ/NV.

Truck hit a wall. Power steering pump pulley was the only point of contact the front end made to the motor.

How do you go about deleting pats if it is equipped?


“keep the pdb and both sides of the pass thru if you want the interlock and starting systems to be normal. if its not pats. power up from the diode backside and put whatever type of crank power you want to the start side....vroom”

You lost me completely here.


After I thought about it a little bit more I do realize I do need the connection at the big plug that connects the engine and chassis harnesses as at least some of that is the power supply and relay supply for the engine harness.

Looking at it unintelligently it seems as though I could cut the pigtail off the chassis side of that plug and begin making my harness off of that.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[YungICY]

buy the evtms for both trucks from helm.

Any sources for that? I did a couple of google searches for manuals but didn’t really turn anything up.


EDIT: guess it helps if I actually read.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[YungICY]

You may have luck with the wiring info at www.bbbind.com or your local library may have access to information online.(or in paper)

tom

Thanks Tom.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

hp tuners...sct can help with pats bypass.

 

[YungICY]

Just ordered an evtm off eBay. That should help quite a bit.

When I make it back home I’ll have to double check the fuel system and pats but I’m pretty sure I dodged a bullet on both of those being a pain.

Other than that the manual I just ordered should clear everything else up.

I used to have an evtm for my 85, never realized how valuable that thing was. I only ever had to open it like once.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tomw]

The EVTM was the best thing FoMoCo ever did for people to learn about their systems. I got one (and a full shop manual set) immediately after getting my Ranger. I read the dang thing from front to back. Having it allowed me to do a lot of things that would have taken a lot longer without the information inside.
good luck
tom

 

[bobbywalter]

well...since this is a race car and a placeholder for something else....


i would just run it with a starter wire right to the solo/pack and toggle power to the eec power side of the diode in the pdb with mechanical gauges. from the pdb cut into the fuel hot keeping it through a crash switch to power the pump with your own wire

leave all the rest of the shit...wouldnt waste any time dicking with the wires.

 

[YungICY]

Just had a minute to get out to the shop and verify the info I gave before regarding pats and fuel system.

The key I have is a standard 99¢ key so I should be clear there, or in for a surprise later down the road.

The fuel system however is definitely returnless. From the small amount of reading I did it appears as though the fuel pump in the tank is internally regulated and supplying the rail with 65-70 psi.

Since I will not be using the factory fuel system this is what I have worked out in my head. Keep in mind I don’t have the evtm in my hands yet. I assume the eec turns on the fuel pump relay, so, keep this in place but have the relay feed power to an in-line Walbro 255, feed that into an in-line regulator which then returns to the tank as well as feeds 70 psi to the rail. Assuming I’m correct in thinking this is the correct way to make it work does it matter how far away from the rail the fpr is?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

that is what i would do.