2.9l Fuel Fouling Number 3 Cylinder

[Mark_88]

I've heard of the oil but I've never used it. Some swear at it...some swear by it...like all other magic oils.

I know the Lucas kept my engine alive...in my mind, anyway. Even that is debatable but I kept using it and the engine kept running after I ran out of oil...and I put over 440,000 km on that little 4 banger.

I would say try it on the next scheduled oil change and only shorten that if you can be confident that it will do anything more than what you have in there now...or you get a discount on a jug of it that won't set you back...maybe keep the old Lucas for something like an oil burning stove if you have one.

 

[JerryC]

My BII was was in pretty rough shape as far as the engine goes. Rough running, down on power etc... The guy that owned it wasn't good at maintenance work.
One of the things I did to bring it back was MMO in the oil to clear out some of the sludge in the motor. I did it several times actually. For a while I was changing the oil every 200 or so miles until it started look like it wasn't cleaning up sludge anymore. I would drive it very easy while the MMO was in there as it will thin the oil and if it was breaking junk loose I wanted be driving it gently.
I still get the occasional 2.9 tap but it comes and goes quickly, for about 30 seconds or so almost always when the engine is dead cold.

I think a video of the engine popping might help since there seem to many definitions of popping sounds.

Did you replace the TFI?

Another thing that costs nothing but time is to check your grounds. All things electronic hate a flaky ground. I think you should have grounds going from battery to frame/chassis (radiator core support?), battery to engine, engine to body. Clean them up and make sure they are tight and the wires are in good shape.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

My BII was was in pretty rough shape as far as the engine goes. Rough running, down on power etc... The guy that owned it wasn't good at maintenance work.
One of the things I did to bring it back was MMO in the oil to clear out some of the sludge in the motor. I did it several times actually. For a while I was changing the oil every 200 or so miles until it started look like it wasn't cleaning up sludge anymore. I would drive it very easy while the MMO was in there as it will thin the oil and if it was breaking junk loose I wanted be driving it gently.
I still get the occasional 2.9 tap but it comes and goes quickly, for about 30 seconds or so almost always when the engine is dead cold.

I think a video of the engine popping might help since there seem to many definitions of popping sounds.

Did you replace the TFI?

Another thing that costs nothing but time is to check your grounds. All things electronic hate a flaky ground. I think you should have grounds going from battery to frame/chassis (radiator core support?), battery to engine, engine to body. Clean them up and make sure they are tight and the wires are in good shape.

Thank you Jerry & Mark

I better not use the MMO if it thins the oil out I know the thinner the oil the more it runs bad. I am at 100% Lucas now with Napa silver filter I did check all the grounds. I have replaced the TFI with a new Motorcraft unit I also tried an Accel TFI same results. I have no way to take videos I did use Seafoam in the oil a year ago it didn't help but it wasn't popping than just bogging when the oil got hot

 

[Mark_88]

Did you try the remote TFI?

Moving it away from the distributor and the heat was what I thought was the original problem...that is still quite possibly the problem but when you discovered the plug fouling it took you in another direction that seemed logical...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Did you try the remote TFI?

Moving it away from the distributor and the heat was what I thought was the original problem...that is still quite possibly the problem but when you discovered the plug fouling it took you in another direction that seemed logical...

Mark

Its running way to rich on fuel mixture I pulled number 3 plug its carbon fouled its dry but black. I did a compression test in number 3 cylinder its 160psi all other cylinders are burning good plugs are nice normal looking. I changed back to the Motorcraft fine wire plug in that cylinder set gap at .045 still missing but went away running normal again. What would make it run rich in one cylinder I changed MAP sensor O2 sensor TPS sensor and the TFI is does pop misfire when cold its done that a few times

Its not a lifter issue it revs up and when popping misfire its god no lifter noise. The TFI remote I wish there was a setup or kit to just change over. Today as it was popping going through town from drive it went into a lower gear up 2500 bogging no popping once I let up let it go into high gear popping at 35mph. I wish I didn't have long steep grades to go up to get out of here as it don't do his on flatlands

 

[JerryC]

Here's a thought, #3 is running super rich and causing the O2 sensor to tell the comp to lean the mixture which causes the popping.
Try pulling power to the #3 injector and take it for a test drive. If it is the problem you'll be on 5 cylinders but without the popping.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Here's a thought, #3 is running super rich and causing the O2 sensor to tell the comp to lean the mixture which causes the popping.
Try pulling power to the #3 injector and take it for a test drive. If it is the problem you'll be on 5 cylinders but without the popping.

Thank you Jerry

This is a new idea and test to try to figure out the problem. I will get it warmed up running good than disconnect number 3 cylinder injector give it a test drive. I am thinking its a computer issue I tried everything els thus far

 

[Milton]

You keep mentioning a ticking sound when the problem occurs. Including a ticking around the coil or distributor. To me it sounds like a misfire caused by the spark shorting to ground. Try parking it in a dark garage/barn. Open the hood then start the engine. Get out and observe the engine for sparks.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

You keep mentioning a ticking sound when the problem occurs. Including a ticking around the coil or distributor. To me it sounds like a misfire caused by the spark shorting to ground. Try parking it in a dark garage/barn. Open the hood then start the engine. Get out and observe the engine for sparks.

Milton

I have done that a few times but never see any sparks or arching. If I take the vacuum line off the plenum going to air filter box I can hear the tick misfire real good inside the plenum. If I give it quick throttle it pops I did remove number 3 plug wire from the spark plug fired it up and it was arching around the coil a real good light show. I tested the coil its fine from what my Chilton book states and the coil is only a months old. The rotor and cap are new and wires

 

[Milton]

Disconnecting a plug wire at the plug should not cause sparking at the coil. At the coil, unplug the wire going to the distributor. Carefully inspect the coil's high voltage socket. You are looking for any evidence of damage/arcing like a burnt carbon trail. Then carefully examine the connector on the high tension wire that connects to the coil. Again you are looking for any sign of damage/arcing.
I once had a coil with nice little carbon trail going from the high voltage contact down the side to where it could then jump to ground. Replacing the coil and ignition wires was required. Your coil seems to be good in that it produces high voltage. I'm guessing that voltage is not being reliably delivered to the spark plugs. I assume when you replaced the plugs you checked the gap?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Disconnecting a plug wire at the plug should not cause sparking at the coil. At the coil, unplug the wire going to the distributor. Carefully inspect the coil's high voltage socket. You are looking for any evidence of damage/arcing like a burnt carbon trail. Then carefully examine the connector on the high tension wire that connects to the coil. Again you are looking for any sign of damage/arcing.
I once had a coil with nice little carbon trail going from the high voltage contact down the side to where it could then jump to ground. Replacing the coil and ignition wires was required. Your coil seems to be good in that it produces high voltage. I'm guessing that voltage is not being reliably delivered to the spark plugs. I assume when you replaced the plugs you checked the gap?

Milton

I checked I see no carbon trail the coil and dist cap both look good. I did try a new Autolite coil wire and plug wire on number 3. No change still popping bogging I did disconnect number 3 injector still pops when I give it quick throttle. I pulled number 3 plug wire still pops under quick throttle. I have the Motorcraft fine wire plug in it seams to run worse I pulled it dark blackish wet around the edge but looks as it was firing. I put the Autolite AP 105 back in and changed the MAP sensor back to the original Ford unit. Still no change I did check the other plugs all burning good now number 6 plug was black looking but looks to be firing. I changed both number 3 and 6 injectors a while back. Its strange now it pops with the injector disconnected or the plug wire off the plug. I did try disconnecting number 6 plug wire it ran still popped under quick throttle but I smelled a lot of fuel

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

"Guy's I don't know"

Number 3 plug is getting carbon fouled more now it use to be off and on. The plug has soft sooty black deposits. It was misfiring I put a clean plug in gaped it at .040 maybe that might help its running fine again. The number 6 plug is kind dark looking as well but looks to be firing. All other plugs look great I was wondering can I switch 1 & 3 on the cap run it that way see if it fouls number 3under a load. If it don't and fouls number 1 its an ignition issue if it fouls number 3 than its more of a fuel issue right?

I am just trying to figure how to tell if its fuel or ignition I feel its a fuel problem. The engine is loaded up on start up I can smell fuel it takes a bit to clear out. I changed back to the original Motorcraft MAP sensor no change. I did fire it up with the plug wire off I could see a nice spark coming out the boot. It sparks on and off than a quick double spark than on and off another quick double spark is this normal firing?

 

[JerryC]

Put an old plug in the boot and and ground the body of the the plug to check the spark. It should spark evenly.
Something that may contribute to the problems but wouldn't be the cause may be the coolant level. If you don't have enough or have air trapped in the system it might make the ECT read erratically causing fueling issues.

 

[RonD]

3 and 6 are at the rear of the engine, rear of the valve covers/valve train has the most oil collecting, angle of engine and general forward driving causes that.

I am sure you have changed PCV valve but excessive blow-by will cause more oil vapor in the engine, and so PVC system pulls more oil vapor into the intake, and it will tend to collect on inside of intake and then run down towards #3 and #6
You could install a Catch Can on the PCV hose, that will lower the amount of oil vapor making it to the intake.

But my guess is Intake Valve guide seals are probably leaking, which would be noticed on #3 and #6 first
You can change valve guide seals without pulling the heads
You need smaller valve spring compressor, to get into tight spaces
Then an air compressor with spark plug adapter, or a smaller rope that fits into spark plug hole

Piston needs to be at TDC
Air compressor will hold valves in place while springs are removed and new guide seals installed
OR
Put piston down about 1/2 way, insert rope thru spark plug hole so it coils up inside cylinder, rotate crank to push piston and rope against valves, put bungie cord on crank wrench to hold piston/rope against valves

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

3 and 6 are at the rear of the engine, rear of the valve covers/valve train has the most oil collecting, angle of engine and general forward driving causes that.

I am sure you have changed PCV valve but excessive blow-by will cause more oil vapor in the engine, and so PVC system pulls more oil vapor into the intake, and it will tend to collect on inside of intake and then run down towards #3 and #6
You could install a Catch Can on the PCV hose, that will lower the amount of oil vapor making it to the intake.

But my guess is Intake Valve guide seals are probably leaking, which would be noticed on #3 and #6 first
You can change valve guide seals without pulling the heads
You need smaller valve spring compressor, to get into tight spaces
Then an air compressor with spark plug adapter, or a smaller rope that fits into spark plug hole

Piston needs to be at TDC
Air compressor will hold valves in place while springs are removed and new guide seals installed
OR
Put piston down about 1/2 way, insert rope thru spark plug hole so it coils up inside cylinder, rotate crank to push piston and rope against valves, put bungie cord on crank wrench to hold piston/rope against valves

Thanks Ron

I never changed the PVC it was changed back in 2002 it seams to be moving inside. The Lucas stabilizer maybe making it stick the valve inside? how would I install a Catch Can in the vacuum line of the PVC? I got a white plastic in line Fram fuel filter. Would this work ok? clean the PVC with carb cleaner and install this right before the PVC where lays flat