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Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda


Have you tried installing your stock front shaft? The D44 has a longer pinion snout, and makes up for some of the lift.

I'm running my stock front shaft, my buckets are set @ 1" lift, running 6.5" EB Deaver coils. IIRC you have stock height buckets and 5.5" springs.

It's not my permanent solution, but it works till I can justify spending +$400 on one that will allow me full droop on the left side.

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Looks good, now lets get some flex pics
 
Running my stock front shaft with my D60 swap as well, and it is moved forwards 3 inches.
 
drove up to take a look at shoot the shit with evan, this is one of the cleanest SFA swaps ive ever seen. rides pretty good too!
 
Have you tried installing your stock front shaft? The D44 has a longer pinion snout, and makes up for some of the lift.

I'm running my stock front shaft, my buckets are set @ 1" lift, running 6.5" EB Deaver coils. IIRC you have stock height buckets and 5.5" springs.

It's not my permanent solution, but it works till I can justify spending +$400 on one that will allow me full droop on the left side.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2

$400? Doubt mine will be over $120 from my local driveline shop. I can't get it in between the snout it's too long the splines are bottomed out

Looks good, now lets get some flex pics

I need to find a loading dock....

Running my stock front shaft with my D60 swap as well, and it is moved forwards 3 inches.

See above ^

drove up to take a look at shoot the shit with evan, this is one of the cleanest SFA swaps ive ever seen. rides pretty good too!

Thank for coming out today!

Looks amazing dude. Keep up the clean work.

Thanks man

I had baby flex today:

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$400? Doubt mine will be over $120 from my local driveline shop. I can't get it in between the snout it's too long the splines are bottomed out

Lucky....
My double-cardan binds only 4" lower than ride height, and I have 1" of spline exposed at ride height.

High angle DC joint, and longer slip yoke, might as well use new thicker tubing and have it built once. $400 shaft right there. Although I'm holding off to see if the small block swap falls through this winter.

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Got one sweet truck their!! Did one hell of a job on her. Are u planing on leaving the hood black? I think it looks sweet that way!!
 
Lucky....
My double-cardan binds only 4" lower than ride height, and I have 1" of spline exposed at ride height.

High angle DC joint, and longer slip yoke, might as well use new thicker tubing and have it built once. $400 shaft right there. Although I'm holding off to see if the small block swap falls through this winter.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2

Maybe mines too and I just don't know it yet :/ it's a double carden as well.

Got one sweet truck their!! Did one hell of a job on her. Are u planing on leaving the hood black? I think it looks sweet that way!!

I'm planning on having it painted to match the rest but never seem to have money for that! Only reason I don't make it a priority is cuz it doesn't look half bad as is haha
 
Looking really good man!
 
I lucked out. My front driveshaft doesnt have to be modified! I still have to check it at full droop on drivers side but seems to work perfect. Threw a new u-joint in and some new straps and tested 4wd today (so $23 bucks instead of $400) :



Also cut and welded in some c-channel to the tranny cross member to make room for the double carden. Seems strong enough but Im thinking I will weld some plate on the bottom and or gusset for strength.



Since 4wd was working I went for a flex test and I am amazed! I also found what I need to address next in terms of getting this pig wheelable:













Need limiting straps, the shocks are about out of extention and the coils come un-seated.

Brake lines are plenty long but I need to run them behind the coil not in front of. With a spring to keep tension on them.

Fenders. Tires want to eat the fenders at anything other than dead straight ahead. Thinking I will either shave and plate the very corner or switch to non flare fenders and trim trim trim, weld, grind smooth and cover with Monsta-Liner. Maybe rock no fenders at all if I get the urge to go wheeling before I can do all of that.

And the Aussie works very well. Noisier than my D35 Lock-right but it actually un-locks and I can steer when Im not on the throttle.

Steering is very livable with the Aussie, and my box/pump actually seem less strained than when they were hooked to the TTB centerlink stuff.

And lastly, bumpstops. Everything clears fine but I need insurance that if Im going fast or come off a ledge abruptly that I dont KO my shocks or let coils do something beyond design. Iv'e seen on Broncos they weld a leaf spring perch that has been cut in half, to the back side of the James Duff arms, then have a polyurethane or hydraulic bumpstop mounted to the frame just above that.

I would like hydraulic stops but probably gonna settle for poly ones once I come up with a way to mount them.

The more I drive it, the more I am satisfied with the ride quality; the "soft" 170/60 valved Bilsteins are a perfect match IMHO to the super flexy BC Bronco front coils. They ride great yet do not allow excessive body roll, in fact it is less than with my TTB setup even though it is taller and more top heavy, it handles better.

Could benefit from a steering stabilizer, but that is a low priority item that will get taken care of in time.

Rear needs longer u-bolts so I can put the stock 2.5" block back in, instead of the 1.5" block. Still will sit about 1/4" to 3/8" low in the back but hey, this is CA and a little bro lean never hurt nobody :) Also low priority (but Ruffstuff is right around the corner, hmmmm)

As far as the tires, I am impressed with how quiet the Kevlars are at all speeds. Two did not balance easily however and I suspect a 3rd might be still out of balance too. They seem very rigid and stiff even at 35 psi. Might let a couple pounds out cuz they ride pretty jarring. The 4.88's turn them pretty well too. Obviously no race care but has plenty of drivability for the road and seems to have enough gear for offroading. Mileage has plummeted to the 14's from the high 17's but that was to be expected.

Trying to swing some rock sliders so I can get a wheeling trip in before winter, but its gonna be a stretch b/c this is my second to last semester as a mechanical engineer (18 units) and I've taken on a new job with more hours and more responsibility.

Castor seems to be right on. The arms have 4.5 degrees and I am running 7 degree bushings. so 11.5 total but what that actually translates to with the lift I am not sure. I just know it has excellent return to center and tracks equally well and slow and high speeds. No wandering or veering here. On the highway it drives surprising straight and needs very little input to keep it that way. Much better than the TTB steering was...

All in all I am very satisfied with the swap. Now I need to focus on saving up for the misc items to get it wheelable, and for another commuter (I'm getting close, probably less than 6 months and I'll have something to commute in). This girl is getting tired with 250,000+ miles. She runs fine but I've built some savings in case worst comes to worst. That's partly why this swap took 18 month (and the roll over lol).

I hope to have the hood painted, sliders on, winch plate/cradle for a winch and lights (tube later) and the misc little things done by years end. We will see how it plays out. Right now it drives me to work and school and does that just perfect. Ill get to the little things all in good time :)
 
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I bought a commuter.... Now I can get crazy with the "Manger"









Jk but I might go wheelin with it on an easy trail Saturday :beer:
 
Big group is going out to pc Saturday. Come play
 
Hey I was reading in another thread that your kevlars seem stiff. Mine are a different size than yours, but on the road I air up 25psi front and 28psi rear. I got those from chalking the tires and spending about 30 min. In a parking lot. Offroad I go 12 front and 15 rear and they flex over rocks extremely well.
 

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