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Rocky Mountain Ranger '92 SAS


The DIY beadlocks are nice, and I will probably do them down the road, one of the more minimal designs to keep the weight down.

I will be running a coil-sprung radius arm suspension. Similar to a lot of Jeep aftermarket long arm kits.
I will have adjustable longarms using the lower control arm mounts with an upper driver side link. Poly bushings at the axle and Currie Johnny Joints at the frame end. 2" o.d.x0.25"

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That's basically the same setup I built SVT. I've noticed since I've built it, its not a real flexy design. I also noticed I used johnny joints on the upper links to lower links. They are not needed, not even a heim joint. A shackle style pivot is all that's needed for the upper to lower. I didn't like the way they came out, so I'll be changing my setup soon...

SVT
 
I've noticed a lot of you guys just run the upper link on the passenger side. Why is this? Crossmember Clearance?

Build's looking great btw. Keep up the good work.
 
Driveshaft occupies the driver side, there's more room on the passenger wide with no driveshaft and no pumpkin. There's no reason to have a 2nd upper link when one is more than enough to control axle wrap. And iirc, it helps it flex better having just one upper link bar...

SVT
 
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That's basically the same setup I built SVT. I've noticed since I've built it, its not a real flexy design. I also noticed I used johnny joints on the upper links to lower links. They are not needed, not even a heim joint. A shackle style pivot is all that's needed for the upper to lower. I didn't like the way they came out, so I'll be changing my setup soon...

SVT


I've noticed a lot of you guys just run the upper link on the passenger side. Why is this? Crossmember Clearance?

Build's looking great btw. Keep up the good work.

One good thing about using the J.J.'s in that location is the 30 degrees of unrestricted movement in any direction, so they will not limit your flex or wear out rapidly like a rubber or poly bushing. I feel that the design flaw comes from having two upper links. It may be good for a road driven vehicle but on the trail will limit travel.

The passenger side upper is not needed, and in fact causes binding as the suspension flexes. I read through quite a few Jeep builds and many of the builders took one of the upper links out of their arms (rustys, IM, clayton) in an attempt to get a greater amount of flex from their setup, all with positive results.....and at least one of the jeep aftermarket companies sells a longarm kit without the passenger upper included.

Stang built a few Rangers with the same setup that have a stupid amount of flex and very good road manners. At least one upper link is needed to set the caster angle so the obvious choice is the drivers side as the axle bushing mount is cast right into the differential housing and is much stronger than the passenger mount.
 
Better answer than I had. I wasn't thinking of a factory housing, I was thinking of clearance issues...

SVT
 
well that is on a dana 30 or JK dana 44 at least. For the same setup on another axle, it might work better the way you explained it. I cut the passenger side upper mount off my axle to clear room for the truss and track bar.
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A few pics of the new rear crossmember. I made some 1" d-ring shackle tabs and notched the 2x4 square tube and welded them in front and back. Should be a solid base to weld some tube to.
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Looking good, any plans to incorporate a receiver?

SVT
 
Yes, I am leaving space for now so I can fit the BII tank in then I will add a receiver.
 
Thanks.

I pulled out my old exhaust and replaced it with a cat back w/flowmaster muffler that sits a little higher and sounds a lot better.

Im ready to do the SAS, steering mods, Tcases, etc. but I am just waiting on getting a few days away from work and a light work load week at school.
 
I cut about 1' off the old section and re-used the exhaust flange. Worked out pretty good.
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Looks good so far :icon_thumby:

SVT
 

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