A few questions....

[baddad457]

Those small U joints aren't as weak as you'd think, especially if you use the ones without the grease fittings. The cast slip yokes in that are used with these are the weak link.

 

[dangerranger83]

Cast slip yokes? You mean the one that I is on my np208?

My ujoint is a non grease type. Also for something that is sais to be weak, it sure does have similar size, if not the same, size caps as the 1310. Seems to be the same size but everything is closer together.

What I will have to check out is what my current driveshaft size is and see if the yoke end that I have can work for it. I had the slip yoke come with my trans. and they had cut the driveshaft near the end but left it so that I can probably weld it to my current shaft, if it will fit. Hopefully after the swap there will be enough driveshaft left that I can just take the slip part out of it and make it a soild shaft.

 

[dangerranger83]

And a picture of how it is. The barbs arent fully mounted, just showing the orientation of things.

 

[baddad457]

Cast slip yokes? You mean the one that I is on my np208?

My ujoint is a non grease type. Also for something that is sais to be weak, it sure does have similar size, if not the same, size caps as the 1310. Seems to be the same size but everything is closer together.

What I will have to check out is what my current driveshaft size is and see if the yoke end that I have can work for it. I had the slip yoke come with my trans. and they had cut the driveshaft near the end but left it so that I can probably weld it to my current shaft, if it will fit. Hopefully after the swap there will be enough driveshaft left that I can just take the slip part out of it and make it a soild shaft.

Back when I had to replace the 2 pc driveshaft on my 89, the cast slip yoke in the middle or the rear shaft turned out to be the weak part when I tried a dry burnout on a rough asphalt parking lot. The tiny joint (the one in the center of the rear shaft) held up fine. Mine had something like a 1310 in front, the tiny assed one in the middle and another 1310 in the back

 

[dangerranger83]

Mine has two 1210 joints on it. Plans are to change those out.

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[dangerranger83]

Okay next thing to find out. What is everybody using for rad. hoses, top and bottom?

Im going to be using a 5.0 exploder rad with a tauras fan, carb setup but dont think that matters to much but also what kind of water neck too.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

SN-95 Mustang 90 degree water neck, 5.0 Exp upper hose and 4.0 Explorer. I have just test fit it, I think it might fit better with a little trimming. Lower is a generic flexhose.

 

[dangerranger83]

Wonder why ford made the hose have so many bends?

Where would the best place to or the location to run the fan temp sensor? Or at least where did you have yours with your old setup since thats what I will be running on my swap?

BTW cant wait to see when yours breathes life again and maybe a vid too.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Wonder why ford made the hose have so many bends?

Where would the best place to or the location to run the fan temp sensor? Or at least where did you have yours with your old setup since thats what I will be running on my swap?

BTW cant wait to see when yours breathes life again and maybe a vid too.

They were dodging a bunch of junk with the hose. I was mainly concerned about the alternator.

The temp sender is pictured, and why I got the Mustang thermostat housing. The Explorer one has hole but it is filled in, you could drill and tap it but if I am buying a new housing I might as well just get what I want.

I can't wait to wrap this thing up again, it has drug on WAY too long.

 

[dangerranger83]

Sounds good, I'll get the one you suggested, plus like how you give part numbers too. Wish I was dropping the engine in now but lack of money says other wise. I have 7 things to get, 10 max to get to be able to do this.

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[Teddyzee]

I'm using a stock Fox body Mustang upper hose (well, it's a silicone kit), Fox Mustang water neck, and my fan temp switch is in the front driver side of the lower intake manifold.
(my Autometer water gauge is in the DS rear corner of my intake lower, and my stock dash gauge is in the water neck. They all seem to reflect similar temps)

My lower hose my be the stock Ranger piece, trimmed to fit. I know I couldn't find a slick way to make the Mustang hose fit.
The Mustang upper took some sweet-talking to fit the Ranger rad.

 

[dangerranger83]

I may grab a few hoses from the jy and see which would work best then get a new one from there along with a few water necks too.

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[dangerranger83]

Been thinking about it and may go with the exploder house since it has the bends to clear an alternator and I do plan on going with a dual alternator setup one day along with OBA, etc...

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[baddad457]

Teddy, whose FEAD setup are you using ? Looks nice and clean, definately not Ford's.

 

[dangerranger83]

I do agree, under the hood of your truck looks damn good.

Also, anybody know where I can get a pulley for a serpentine belt for the power steering at online got the FEAD that I plan on using?

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