How can I tell what engine I have?

[Mark_88]

Well, at least you are starting putting it together...beats waiting for things to happen...hope it works out...probably an oil seam or something...or maybe mismatched...

Never got that far with a motor rebuild so I have no idea...

 

[Kenneth S]

So, I started putting my engine together today. I didn't get far. You can see in the picture the bearing doesn't match the cap. I'll have to bring them down to the machine shop Monday.
EDIT- the pic isn't very good but the cap has a notch on the side and the bearing tab for the notch is in the middle.

That bearing (that also has the thrust bearings) goes in the center main cap. All the grooved main bearings should go into the block for oiling.

 

[itlives]

That bearing (that also has the thrust bearings) goes in the center main cap. All the grooved main bearings should go into the block for oiling.

So the BIG bearing that has the sides on it goes on the center main cap?
That would explain why one main cap has a larger groove in it!

I never put one of these together before. Is there a shop manual you would recommend?

 

[Kenneth S]

The Haynes manual for 1983-1992 Rangers should cover everything you need to rebuild it. That bearing with the sides is the main/thrust bearing they both go on the number 3, or center main.

 

[itlives]

Thanks Kenneth. I already have a Haynes manual - it's for the year my engine came out but a Mustang manual. Same engine basically.
I just ordered a used Chiltons manual off Amazon for $8.

 

[itlives]

Update- I got my crank, rods, pistons and oil pump in (the block). Everything looks great so far.
My friend that's going to help (read that - I'm going to help) me get the engine installed in the VW just called. He's coming over this weekend to see what I've done.
This is the biggest step in getting this conversion done!

 

[Kenneth S]

When you get the engine in the VW put up some pic's, I'd like to see it.

 

[John Smith]

just a quick note..

Update- I got my crank, rods, pistons and oil pump in (the block). Everything looks great so far.
My friend that's going to help (read that - I'm going to help) me get the engine installed in the VW just called. He's coming over this weekend to see what I've done.
This is the biggest step in getting this conversion done!

when you installed the crank, did you take care to check the rear main journal halve to check for the need for a thin line of rtv for proper sealing?...just a caution while building..

 

[itlives]

John- no, I didn't. I followed the manual but don't remember that.
I'll go back and check that in the book. Or, is that one of those tips that aren't in the manuals.
I'd hate to have to go backwards but will if it's necessary.

 

[Kenneth S]

I never put any type of sealer between the rear bearing cap, and the block, and never had any major leaks. The most I've seen is just a very minute amount of seepage between them.

 

[itlives]

I did go and look in my Chilton manual . It says to put a little sealant there, but it's showing a two-piece seal. My engine has a one-piece seal.
I don't think it would hurt to take off that one cap and put some RTV there but I'm going to wait for my friend to come over this weekend and see what he says.
He used to dirt-track these engines so I'm guessing he'll know.
One other thing, another reason I'm changing engines is I can't stand oil leaks. The VW's leak so much the VW peeps say they don't leak, they just mark their spot.
I'm tired of oil leaks, adjusting valves and generally having to baby this VW along. I'm hoping the 2.3 (with all new everything) and no EMPI parts(Empi = Chinese =yucky crap!) will mean happy driving!

Edit- One more one more thing, earlier I posted the weight of my truck as almost 5000 lb.s. I was wrong. It is 2650. The 5K is fully loaded.
So, with proper gearing and tires, I should get some good MPG!

 

[Kenneth S]

Putting a just a little bit of sealer there wouldn't hurt.


P.S. The EMPI stuff wasn't that good 20 - 30 years ago.

 

[Mark_88]

Edit- One more one more thing, earlier I posted the weight of my truck as almost 5000 lb.s. I was wrong. It is 2650. The 5K is fully loaded.
So, with proper gearing and tires, I should get some good MPG!

Pics...can't wait to see this...and before you try burning the tires off I hope you give it a good break in...I've heard 100 km and change oil...then 2500 and change it again...what is your plan on that or what do you recommend?

 

[itlives]

I break in the cam (this is from VW experience) by running the engine at between 2,000- 2,500 RPM for the first 20 minutes. Shut down the engine. Check for any leaks. Change the oil. Run for 500-600 miles. Change the oil. Then change oil normally.
Is it usually done different on these engines?

 

[John Smith]

A link to another post..

John- no, I didn't. I followed the manual but don't remember that.
I'll go back and check that in the book. Or, is that one of those tips that aren't in the manuals.
I'd hate to have to go backwards but will if it's necessary.

A great post for checking the variables about a leak-free motor..

http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=055031;p=0#000001



Quote..."Yes towards the outer corners...if you look at the main cap, you will see the corner that mates with the corner in the block is not square....

So there is a little triangle shaped channel that leads from the crank case to the outside of the block on the left and right sides of the main cap....

Guess what people think is leaking oil...the main seal when its really the main cap. Just enough to leave a silver dollar sized drop every time you park and drive you (me) nuts.....

My current motor is 99.99% leak free and I am now 99.99% sane....."

another quote..

Originally posted by johnk&triumph:
Its the corners that leak not the two mating surfaces.

When you look at without silicone, you can see day light.....through the two corners...

I will post a pic when I get a chance.

jk

Looked at a bare block and main cap; I see what you're talking about now. The Chilton manual specifically adresses this issue. But I couldn't find it mentioned anywhere in the in the 1987 or 1992 Ford manuals. Maybe its addressed separately in a Ford TSB.

This post is a conversation about turbo'd motors., but any crankcase pressure will cause some leaks...

I hope it goes well for you..good project