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How can I tell what engine I have?


Thanks for that link. There's lots of good tips in it.
Bookmarked to show my friend (or not,and see what he does - evil grin)
 
Yeah, looks like something I need to read over and check...thanks John!
 
About the ned of the thread someone mentioned cleaning the surfaces real good and squeazing some rtv in it w/o taking it apart.
What think ye?

Or, will it hurt to take the one cap of f, seal it, and put it back on?
 
if ur engine is still

About the ned of the thread someone mentioned cleaning the surfaces real good and squeazing some rtv in it w/o taking it apart.
What think ye?

Or, will it hurt to take the one cap of f, seal it, and put it back on?

upside down on a stand..

I would remove the cap..seal it and re-torque myself.
 
I shall do as you say -wise one.
 
I spent some time there yesterday. It does me little good since I'm not turbo'd.

Didn't join. I like the folks here.

BTW- I DID take the cap off and seal it and re-torque it. You are right about it needing RTV (black). With the cap on, you can't see the little channel that runs front to back. If I had a decent camera, I would have taken a picture of it.
Good call- thank you.
 
Good to hear

I spent some time there yesterday. It does me little good since I'm not turbo'd.

Didn't join. I like the folks here.

BTW- I DID take the cap off and seal it and re-torque it. You are right about it needing RTV (black). With the cap on, you can't see the little channel that runs front to back. If I had a decent camera, I would have taken a picture of it.
Good call- thank you.

I'm not a member there either, my e-mail account isn't fancy enuf I guess. I had gather all the parts to build a Turbo'd motor so I had spent quite a bit of time there..and of course the solid info on engine building by the many "experienced" senior hands there are obvious. When you think about the various possible places for leaks on this engine certainly that one on the rear main cap if missed could be such a discouragement to a "new engine" project, I felt to give a heads up.....I would hate to see anyone have to pull the motor again to fix such a small easily solved problem, when at this stage...

It's not like you could do it with the engine installed..

I hope the rest of your motor comes together well..If you need any factory Ford engine info I have the THICK official shop manual to refer to..circa 1988

JS
 
If there are any things you think of just put them in here. My email is fancy enough for this site!
I appreciate all the help you guys have already given!
 
I do have to confess,I didn't plasti-gauge the bearings.
If my friend says I need to, I will. I trust the machine shop.
Plasti-gauging is the one thing the book says to do and I didn't.

What do you think?
 
Well..

I do have to confess,I didn't plasti-gauge the bearings.
If my friend says I need to, I will. I trust the machine shop.
Plasti-gauging is the one thing the book says to do and I didn't.

What do you think?

When fitting a crank, I always plastigage so I will know exactly what the the fitment is but I know that common practice is to "mic" and fit bearings..

If you didn't have your crank reground or polished, depending on your "mic" experience..you may not know exactly how the fit is w/o plastigaging..some would say..a "mic" is close enuf for govment work...

If you had your crank reground, and the machine shop supplied bearings, ur probably ok..In my case, the two engines I have in my shop each have an unground standard crank so I wanted to know what each journal was doing..so, plastigage was in order..call it curiosity..or old school.. other's experience may require a different approach
 
The block was align bored. The crank polished. They did mention mic 'n it. They supplied all the internals. I think I'm ok.
Another thing I think about is torquing and undoing and retorquing the bolts .
I'm trying to use the bolts I have but I've read I should buy new head bolts.
What do you think ?
 
about head bolts..

The block was align bored. The crank polished. They did mention mic 'n it. They supplied all the internals. I think I'm ok.
Another thing I think about is torquing and undoing and retorquing the bolts .
I'm trying to use the bolts I have but I've read I should buy new head bolts.
What do you think ?

I have a collection of early 12pt head bolts which can be re-used. I like the idea of re-using good head-bolts that can be torqued to specific specs. If your used bolts show obvious signs of stretching or unusual thread wear..maybe set them aside. On an N/A head install with properly tapped clean threads, I believe head bolts could be re-used quite a few times actually. Of course you want to tap your thread holes in the block..and torque carefully consistantly etc. (Original 12pt headed bolts ONLY)

If you use the medium quality head gasket, (not the 1035) you can get a good seal even though your block may not be surfaced...(although checking with a straight edge is always in order.)..

I like to use a flat machinist file to check for burrs and high spots and work them slightly..
 
I have a bunch of those 12 point bolts. We used some today!
We got the head pulled apart and cleaned and put back together AND bolted on the engine. We got the front of the engine all put together except I have to go get his big torque wrench Monday and finish torquing the head and cam pulley.
My friend also made up a big list of stuff I need to do. All a bunch of little things like getting the right size bolts for things.
Also, does anyone have a picture of where their water temperature gauge is?
Putting this a VW requires I do some mods like the bend in my dip stick. Once we get it in the truck some of stuff I'm doing will make more sense.
I put new seals on my "new" transmission and changed the fluid and put on a new throw out bearing. My friend was pleased with the work I had done- that was great since he knows his stuff!
Here's a couple of pics-
PICT0174.jpg

PICT0172.jpg
 

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