Ford Techs, I have a question on my 06 Escape

[shane96ranger]

The other day I was singing the praises of my Escape in another thread, and now it's pulling a fast one on me.

It drains the battery after it sits for over 24 hours. It's pulling .22 amps (.05 or less is where it should be) with the GEM in battery saver mode (after 45 minutes). In fact it goes to .22 amps after about 3 minutes and does not change. I unhooked the alternator, and am getting the same reading. I have read this same scenario in a few forums, but nobody ever posts the cure - just a bunch of guesses.

So my question to you is; Are there any instances you have seen this occur, and what were your findings? I've read ideas like the GEM, Instrument Cluster, and even the radio.

Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

EDIT: One more piece of info I forgot to add.... I don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but the rear wiper took a dump at the same time. The washer portion still works, and the fuse is good (rear washer and wiper are on the same fuse). It could very well just be a coincidence.

 

[martin]

Try disconnecting the wiper. If it has not gone to the park position it might be still trying to pull power.

 

[shane96ranger]

Martin, I will definitely try that tomorrow morning. It isn't in the home position, and I figured it wouldn't have power. But it might just have enough to return it to home.

There is actually another symptom I just thought of that popped up since this fiasco started, that I guess I kind of disregarded. But it feels like it is "lunging" when you are in reverse or drive and controlling your speed with the brakes - such as backing out of the driveway, or coming to a stop. It's never done that before.

See what I get for saying it's been a good vehicle? LOL

 

[kcm1582]

Well the way I always go after amperage draws is to set up your meter in line to read amp draw, and start pulling and replacing fuses until the amperage drops to an acceptable level. Once you found the fuse get the circuit number and wiring diagram to see what is on that circuit, then start unplug components one at a time till your amperage returns to normal, and replace whatever part was causing the draw.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

^^^ This is the way to go about it. Just close the door latch after you open the door, wait for it to go to 'sleep' and then start pulling fuses inside and out, till your draw drops to an acceptable level.

 

[shane96ranger]

^^^ This is the way to go about it. Just close the door latch after you open the door, wait for it to go to 'sleep' and then start pulling fuses inside and out, till your draw drops to an acceptable level.

Does it really take 40-45 minutes for the GEM to go into battery saver mode? Mine drops after a couple minutes and stays there.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Component Tests
Battery — Drain Testing

WARNING: Do not attempt this test on a lead-acid battery that has recently been recharged. Explosive gases may cause personal injury. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
NOTICE: To prevent damage to the meter, do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A.
NOTICE: If equipped with the CD6 audio unit, precautions must be taken when the battery has been disconnected. When reconnecting the battery, make sure no interruption of power occurs for 30 seconds. If power is interrupted during the first 30 seconds, permanent damage to the CD6 audio unit will result.
NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.
NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
NOTE: Use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable.
NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all the fuses, it is due to the generator.
NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line ammeter must be used. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.

1. Make sure the junction box(es)/fuse panel(s) is accessible without turning on the interior lights or the underhood lights.

1. Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and activate the vehicle systems.

1. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key off for at least 40 minutes to allow the modules to time out/power down.

1. Connect a fused jumper wire (30A) between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.

1. NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated.
   Connect the battery tester between the negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

1. NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.
   NOTE: Amperage draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
   NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
   Remove the jumper wire.

1. Note the amperage draw. Draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.

1. If the draw is found to be excessive, remove the fuses from the smart junction box (SJB) 1 at a time and note the current reading. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To correctly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and then install 1 fuse, note the amperage draw, remove the fuse and install the next fuse. Continue this process with each fuse.

1. If the current draw is still excessive, remove the fuses from the battery junction box (BJB) 1 at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To correctly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed, then install 1 fuse, note the amperage draw, remove the fuse and install the next fuse. Continue this process with each fuse. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

1. Check the wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the BJB or the SJB. If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Also, disconnect the generator electrical connections if the draw cannot be located. The generator may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.

 

[hopster]

^ yes that its straight off of pts it looks like

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

It is typically one of the door ajar switches that is stuck. While monitoring draw I push on each door to see if there is a change

 

[shane96ranger]

I did some testing today, and good hell it's time consuming. The only thing I found odd today is that fuse #7 for the "Instrument cluster, Diagnostic Connector, Power mirror switch, Radio", is pulling .08A. That alone is more than I've read the max should be...... I unhooked the stereo harness, and it showed no change.

Still working on it though.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I've seen more than one IC causing a drain....

 

[shane96ranger]

I've seen more than one IC causing a drain....

That's what I'm thinking it probably is. It looks like it's going to be a pain in the arse to get to it.

If I replace this with a used one, what do I do about the mileage? Is that stored in the cluster, or does the ECU have that info?

Thanks!

 

[adsm08]

Your bigger issue is the PATS system. The PATS signal runs though the cluster and it will need programmed. You won't have to worry about the odometer unless the engine runs.

 

[shane96ranger]

Your bigger issue is the PATS system. The PATS signal runs though the cluster and it will need programmed. You won't have to worry about the odometer unless the engine runs.

Holy piss

I don't want to do that garbage. I take it that's a dealer only thing, eh?

 

[kcm1582]

Not necessarily, but it is pretty tricky to find people who have the equipment to do it. When I was working in an independent shop we had a guy we would call in for reprogramming.