Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda

[Hagan]

Hagan, James Duffs arms are $750 or so shipped… yeah still a lot of money but they are pure beef and eye candy. I really like the way they look.

Yeah you're right. I thought they were more. Its just 2" diameter 1/4" thick tubing. And I believe my heim joint is actually bigger. But, they are bolt on, have caster built into them, and are angled for tire clearance.

Axle looks great!

 

[legoms013]

The biggest thing for me is the angle for tire clearance...something I can't achieve if I were to extend te stockers.


Lookie what showed up today:

 

[SAY789]

Nice!! How much?
And u def got to get us a night pic of one on

 

[legoms013]

Nice!! How much?
And u def got to get us a night pic of one on

I will

I got them for $324 shipped. Usually they are about $380 direct from Rigid Industries...I had a coupon. Obviously the covers and tube mounts were extra....expensive stuff, but the light output is nothing short of amazing....I probably will never go back to bulb based lights if I can help it.

 

[4.0B2]

if you ever go LED lighting... you won't go back. most don't even want HIDs after having LEDs... i can't blame them. but the ddm tuning kit for my hella's was the best i could afford lol

 

[legoms013]

What's everyones thoughts on gearing for the D44?

Stay 4.88's....run 35's and deal with it....pretty good overall gearing for mostly highway. Rpms around 2000-2200 on highway. End up with less crawl than I have now with the 33's...Wouldn't have to regear the 8.8. Probably best for commuting.

Go 5.13's.....be trail awesome and have some grunt to eventually run 37's. Highway Rpms around 2500 with 35's, maybe back down to 2000-2200 for 37's. Have to regear the 8.8. Second best for commuting...unless I step up to 37's.

or

Go 5.38's and go straight to 37's, be trail ready, and sacrifice some highway speed in favor of offroad-ability. Similar highway Rpms. Worst for commuting, best for wheeling. Have to regear the 8.8.

I may go with an ARB at the same time...if I can't swing the funds in a moderate amount of time (6 months or less), I'll go with an Aussie or something used.



Next up:
wire D2's
Driveline
Sliders
Windshield
Gears/locker for D44 (has to be fully narrowed first)

 

[SAY789]

You gonna gear it so u might as well gear it low and strait to 37's.
Unless u go doubler and keep current gears and swap on 37s for extreme 4x4 play and 35s for everyday use.

 

[legoms013]

True but if I could get away with gearing the D44 only, and not my 8.8, that be some money saved. Might be an option if I consider going with a doubler or Atlas few years down the road.

However, I am open to all comments and opinons at this point, talk is cheap, gearing is not however. I appreciate all advice.

 

[Hagan]

I don't think tire clearance is an issue with radius armed SA dana 44's. I guess I'll find out I just finished painting mine. I was thinking about making a build thread but I don't know.

My ring and pinion was only $127. But considering it sounds like you commute or DD your Mazda I'd say to go with 5.13's or stick with 4.88's.

 

[Kyle M.]

I ran 4.88s with my 38's and I was happy all around, and my clutch wasn't too pissed either.

 

[kris97ranger]

id keep the 4.88s. my buddies 92 is on 36"s on 4.88s and has plenty of extra power. and like was said before if it isnt enough get a doubler.down the road

 

[legoms013]

I don't think tire clearance is an issue with radius armed SA dana 44's. I guess I'll find out I just finished painting mine. I was thinking about making a build thread but I don't know.

My ring and pinion was only $127. But considering it sounds like you commute or DD your Mazda I'd say to go with 5.13's or stick with 4.88's.

Master install kit is about $110, gears are up to about $150-200. Labor for gear install is 3 hours. 110+150+180 = $440 MINIMUM. I'd prefer not to dish that out multiple times (like if I had to regear the rear too, then my costs double). I don't feel like doing it myself either....

Tire clearace will be a factory....especially on a narrowed axle.

I ran 4.88s with my 38's and I was happy all around, and my clutch wasn't too pissed either.

This is good news to my ears (and checkbook).

id keep the 4.88s. my buddies 92 is on 36"s on 4.88s and has plenty of extra power. and like was said before if it isnt enough get a doubler.down the road

Alrighty...leaning towards 4.88's.

 

[4.0B2]

do you need 37's for what you wheel? i know i know, bigger is better right? lol..

lets play the common sense game for a min... 4.88's and 35's, what has held you back from what you wanted to do? same setup w/ a solid front axle is a new monster now....

the differences between 4.88 and 5.13's are sooooo small that i wouldn't regear the 8.8 for it. if you wanna do something other than 4.88's, make the change matter.. remember tell me the same thing about going from 3.73's to 4.10's? yeah.... moving one step in gear changes don't change a lot...

so my vote is 4.88's and 35s/36s or go all the way and be rocking 37s+

 

[kris97ranger]

if your only paying to regear the front that $ 440 that u would have spent regearing the rear can go to a front locker

 

[legoms013]

do you need 37's for what you wheel? i know i know, bigger is better right? lol..

lets play the common sense game for a min... 4.88's and 35's, what has held you back from what you wanted to do? same setup w/ a solid front axle is a new monster now....

the differences between 4.88 and 5.13's are sooooo small that i wouldn't regear the 8.8 for it. if you wanna do something other than 4.88's, make the change matter.. remember tell me the same thing about going from 3.73's to 4.10's? yeah.... moving one step in gear changes don't change a lot...

so my vote is 4.88's and 35s/36s or go all the way and be rocking 37s+

My own advice coming back full circle! So that means its either stay 4.88's or go straight to 5.38's.

Staying with 4.88's would keep a sensible sized pinion....5.38's the pinion is getting pretty small at that point and possibly more prone to breakage. I suppose I could make up the difference in gearing with an Atlas or a doubler if it gets to that point (where I wanna run 37's and be a rock garden rig).

I'm gonna wheel harder after the SAS undoubtedly, but I don't have a tendency to cut up sheet metal and become a full blown "rig" that doesn't look like the original vehicle. This lends me to thinking I will stay with 35's for a long while, and still commute the pig now and then. I will still mostly be a mall crawler...with the ability to go wheeling with my father and his CJ need be. Again, original goal of the build was to build a bulletproof, simple commuter and weekend toy, not a KOH truggy.

4.88's & 35's it is then (for the initial phase of SAS). Unless someone can convince me otherwise.

if your only paying to regear the front that $ 440 that u would have spent regearing the rear can go to a front locker

PURE. WISDOM