Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda

[escort_gts]

Damn that's alot of light.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

 

[RangerBoy94]

I'd say looks good.

 

[bubbagump]

i got a question for yall cause you seem to know alot about axles i have something wrong with my front axle the guy told me it would be around $300 well i lately have been upset because i have a 1998 4x4 torsion bar setup and it is basically impossible to do anything cheap to them. so my question is how much would it be to change the axle to something with coil springs or anything that is easier to lift

 

[legoms013]

i got a question for yall cause you seem to know alot about axles i have something wrong with my front axle the guy told me it would be around $300 well i lately have been upset because i have a 1998 4x4 torsion bar setup and it is basically impossible to do anything cheap to them. so my question is how much would it be to change the axle to something with coil springs or anything that is easier to lift

I can almost guarantee it will be cheaper to just fix what ever is the problem now.

Changing to another setup is gonna be getting into the custom fab stuff...SAS adds up cheap, and so does converting to coilovers (for that information, head over to Ford Ranger Forums for that, they know all about how to do that).

 

[legoms013]

Well, the wedge is on.

I used a new method that I haven't seen anybody else use yet. Super fast, and super easy. I used a 8' long section of 3/4" all thread and a couple nuts, a couple plates, and some 2x4 lumber. Sucked it on with the impact in about 1 min 32 seconds first try...just needs weldment

No fiddling with heat, no messing around with a 100 ton press, no stressing that the castor angle was gonna be screwy, and no busted knuckles beatin' it on with a sledge.

Got some free shit from work today.....gotta love it.

No that the wedge is on, this is the part of the SAS that starts costing a lot of money. From here on out, things get expensive. For now I am broke, so parts and progress will be slow (just like I have always said). At this moment in time I am on track to have it geared/locked by summer time....close to fully built in the fall...and tenatively seeing the swap done after Christmas.

First things first though.....an EB shaft for it this week for the passenger side....keep the stocker and get it splined for later as a spare.

From there who knows...I might just sit on it and save some money up for a long while before I do anything again to it (maybe drill out the knuckles for OTK steering....and balljoints....that way I could at least get the knuckles on and a tie rod fabbed up).

 

[SAY789]

Ya id def get the knuckles drilled and tapped for future, especially since they are torn apart right now. And youd want new ball joints in there anyways so it keeps you from removing them twice. Good idea with the all thread. Did you sand the tube so it would slide in there easier?

oh and if you got time you should flap disk the pumpin to remove the rough factory cast edges for a better look when you paint it

 

[legoms013]

Ya id def get the knuckles drilled and tapped for future, especially since they are torn apart right now. And youd want new ball joints in there anyways so it keeps you from removing them twice. Good idea with the all thread. Did you sand the tube so it would slide in there easier?

oh and if you got time you should flap disk the pumpin to remove the rough factory cast edges for a better look when you paint it

Yeah I sanded both the tube and the wedge, not very much though.

 

[demon-fx4]

awesome

 

[legoms013]

Hagan, got the axle shaft today. Thanks again for the deal

Made a mount for my air horn. Will get a final install pic up tomorrow.

 

[legoms013]

Not sure if I got a final, installed and operation picture up of my air setup:

Horn installed:

Amber covers on:

And a surprise goody I found in the street today...perfectly functional with a fully charged battery. Just has some minor road rash and cosmetic flaws...topped off my lug nut torque's nicely We use these at work (and Makita's) so if it or the battery dies I may have a shot at a trade or at least some credit towards a brand new one...Haven't decided if I am gonna keep it...might give it to dad or to a friend since I already have an 18V makita impact.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...langId=-1&keyword=dewalt impact&storeId=10051

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=100634631&catEntryId=100634631

 

[2004xlmiller]

awesome find. i like the air setup.

 

[legoms013]

Good deal?

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123477

I'm not a fan of progressive coils but the price as sparked my interest...

 

[Bennybooster]

not really, I have seen non progressive EB coils brand new for cheaper

 

[legoms013]

Yeah like these:

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-1571

Which are 190PPI and linear...plus they come in different heights. I am unsure which length I will need and 5.5 is probably on the too tall side I'm guessing.

 

[legoms013]

I calc'd with a 190PPI coil they will sag 6" with the weight of the vehicle on them. So in order to be at or above the same amount of lift I have now I need a coil with a free length of about 23". Might require dual shocks, or singles valved pretty stiff.

For a 300PPI coil, they will sag about 3.7"....requiring a 21" tall coil to retain my current lift height. Might rattle my teeth out...

In essence, with some math I figured my current Skyjacker coils, 21" long, 17" compressed, with a 415PPI rate, ACT like a coil that is 280PPI on a solid axle rig (due to the 1.5:1 leverage effect of the TTB).

So to retain at minimum the current lift height, and the current ride quality (which is a hair stiff for my liking) I need a coil that is 220-240PPI and around 21-23" long free length.

This is all calc'd with a front end weight of 1107 pounds per coil at the coil (no unsprung weight just sprung weight).

Probably could go with Bronco Graveyard's Deaver Superflex 5.5" coil, 190PPI and call it good. Would sag out to around 17.68"...