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My Steering build kinda like superrunner


I forgot to add the pic in my last post in which I refer to. But see the red line, in an ideal world all our tie-rods would pivot there. Making them longer helps with the bump steer tremendously.

ttbsymetry.jpg


Yeah my idler arm does what you describe too (I think)...it sorta "walks" or wobbles up and down when a change of direction is inputted or under severe strain. Like when turning but not rolling, or when a tire is pegged up against a rock. I have eliminated most of it by putting an impact on the bolt and cinching it down super tight until the bracket captures the inner metal sleeve in the bushing so tight that it is basically part of the bracket....if it is the correct length then it does not hurt the bushing. Some if it is still there in severe situations...which bothers me cuz it feels like "play" in the steering but I have not built a better solution yet (I wanna do away with bushings and go to tapered roller bearings up there on the frame mount someday). I may SAS before that ever happens though lol.


I would say mine was,pretty close to the red line. From looking at that the frame rails would be a good place for them to be I might have to look at a full swingset style. But my old design worked pretty good for me. ! It could be made better for sure.
 
But my old design worked pretty good for me. ! It could be made better for sure.

It's actually pretty forgiving as long as the steering (tie rod) pivots are mounted on the same plane as your axle beam pivots (same height above the ground). Full-length tie rods mounted on the suspension's pivoting axis would certainly improve bumpsteer at the extremes of travel though (should be noticeable if you do a lot of high-speed running).




Instead of 2-5/8", use something that's about 5" long.
 
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looks cool. looks kinda scary almost.. lol.
 
looks cool. looks kinda scary almost.. lol.

we'll lets just say it looks complicated for most any steering. But thats all TTB. What looks scary about it? Im all about hearing things I have been told to NEVER use a poly bushing in a steering set up. But I was thinking ok wait... 90% of after market lift kits jeeps for one you poly bushings in the control arms, track bars, leaf spings ect.... The biggest thing I didn't like about it was the way I had to fab the mounts on the center link for the heim joints but they are in double sheer.
 
I didn't mean scary as I'd be scared to drive it... I meant scary as complicated! Lol.

Actually, it looks like it'd work dang near perfect for ttb stuff. I like it. If I didn't find the super runner used cheap.. I'd probably try building one!
 
If I end up keeping my truck TTB, I think your setup will be what I run/fab next for my steering. Only things I would change would be to the 1-ton TREs and move the idler outside of the frame rail and extend the centerlink. Should be pretty much bumpsteer-less throughout travel if the tie-rods are flat and a hair longer than the beams.
 
If I end up keeping my truck TTB, I think your setup will be what I run/fab next for my steering. Only things I would change would be to the 1-ton TREs and move the idler outside of the frame rail and extend the centerlink. Should be pretty much bumpsteer-less throughout travel if the tie-rods are flat and a hair longer than the beams.

What steering box are you going to use? Moving the box to the outside would help solve to problems at once. PSC makes one but its not all that cheap. I guess you could use a toyota box. If I remember I think dodge had a outside the rail box to on the ramchargers. Now you really got me thinking. :icon_thumby:
 
i have run the ramcharger type box-(2wd gm) scout and ford types of outside the rails on my platform.


i have also made a all oem part based crossover years ago with the hd gm idler setup outside the rail.

it was marginal when attempting to keep it as a junkyard bolt on option...but the setup could really work well if a guy was building to it with some custom links....especially with an out rail box on the other side. combining ram assist would be easy to do as well.


gm/dodge type box...

2167330191_large.jpg



current ford setup...scout similar

15488797_large.jpg



idler....like 2wd hd gm 2500...

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looked at the truck today and I don't think with the 35s and still running the TTB that it would work. I think the tire would rub the box pretty bad when turned. There really isn't much room there on the outside of the frame.
 
Can you build the tierod bracket to come down below the centerlink and go under the pitman arm TRE maybe? (and same for the passengerside under the idler arm?)
You'd have to come down a bit anyway to match up with the height of the beam pivots, so I'm thinking this might be possible.
 
Can you build the tierod bracket to come down below the centerlink and go under the pitman arm TRE maybe? (and same for the passengerside under the idler arm?)
You'd have to come down a bit anyway to match up with the height of the beam pivots, so I'm thinking this might be possible.

I Don't see why you couldn't, other then some weird forces that might get put on things from being outside the comfort zone as I would say. Right now I can't think of a way todo it without just building a bracket for the pitman arm TRE to mount on top of the center link like a redneck afterthought.
 
I Don't see why you couldn't, other then some weird forces that might get put on things from being outside the comfort zone as I would say. Right now I can't think of a way todo it without just building a bracket for the pitman arm TRE to mount on top of the center link like a redneck afterthought.

I was thinking something along these lines (pardon the photochop)
attachment.php


I guess the driverside end does look a little weird like that, but I see no reason it couldn't work well as long as it's good & solid and you don't bump into a clearance issue somewhere.




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We will just have to wait and see if I have one of my mid day... OH HEY moments.

But with having a center drag link it really wouldn't have to much push/pull forces on the box like I thought at first. but really I wasn't to worried about the passenger side link as I was the drivers side. If you look the passenger side link is about an inch longer then the TTB but the drivers side is about 3inches short. Overall I was really happy with the old set up. The best part was I had a buddy that helped aline the old one. I got to thinking about the Toe in-out change so as much as we could we flexed the truck on the alinement rack. I had around 5 inches of travel with minimal toe change. To me that is pretty good for a lifted TTB.

That said I don't think I am going to change much other then how the idler arm mounts really
 
Well I hate to say it but looks like I might be going SAS sooner then I thought I got a set of gears for the dana 44 in trade for some bumper building. Doesn't look like this will go much farther. But hey we got some good ideas out there.
 
Well I hate to say it but looks like I might be going SAS sooner then I thought I got a set of gears for the dana 44 in trade for some bumper building. Doesn't look like this will go much farther. But hey we got some good ideas out there.

Very good ideas.

This setup you have built, and subsequent revisions that may or may not come to be, is yet one more viable option for those wanting to keep their TTB a lil longer, and not wanted to endure typical bumpsteer issues.

As I see it there are four main methods to eliminate bumpsteer on a lifted TTB RBV (with their respective pro's, cons).

Centerlink type system resembling the SuperRunner (or SuperRunner itself)
FA600
Stonecrusher
Custom Swingset

Each works better or worse for certain situations, costs different and has different degrees of fab involved....


....Bottom line though is that TTB can and does work very well when the steering is in proper order, and hopefully more folk will give it a try before they go SAS.

:icon_thumby:
 

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