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My Steering build kinda like superrunner


looked at the truck today and I don't think with the 35s and still running the TTB that it would work. I think the tire would rub the box pretty bad when turned. There really isn't much room there on the outside of the frame.

looked eh?


yeah looks like-- and what actually works are sometimes miles apart.

if it had big issues with that ford box, then the radius arms would have to be way custom to keep rubbing at bay....

the ford box is not much more of a target then having the idler arm on the frame on the passenger side. with 15-35-15 swampers on 10 in wide wheels and 4.5 back spacing with regular d35 knuckles with vms pivots, airbagged 23.5 rc 140 ppi coils rubbing would not be an issue.

thats a fat bastard tire too.

the gm/dodge boxes would be a no go though, especially with factory wheels.
 
My 35x12.50 tires rub the frame right immediately ahead of where the steering box is, I really doubt you could put anything outside the frame there on either side and not have it be in the way.

Only pic I have that shows the rub mark:
mount.jpg
 
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yeah....they will rub a lil...


:dunno:

full up i rubbed my coils at the top too:dunno:


radius arms rubbed too....and it did rub the idler on the passenger side when it was on...


its nice and smooth and minor.

not a dangerous rub issue...not an issue at all...

my frame is marked permanant in that spot iirc...next time i have it all apart i will have to study it....but it did always rub there with the 15-35's...box is another 3 inches out...


slip through there nice...:D
 
for this to work with the ttb idler setup...the box still needs to go to the cab 2-3 inches as well, in this pic its actually too far forward even with a solid axle 3 inches forward...

it is where it is now due to the 6.5 diesel pigging up the engine bay....turns out those little 6.5's are still slightly larger then 2.9's:icon_confused:

as it sits, its just behind the area the big tires can rub..


15488797_large.jpg



click
 
Awesome setup. Im going to have to fab some kind of steering for my ranger, and this is definately my favorite setup. Thanks for pics and writeup.

I wonder if you could re-orient the swing linkage that attaches the center link to the frame 90º to minimize the deflection. As long as the linkage was pretty long, it's arc could be negligible over the range.
 
Here mine I only get a 1/4" of bumpsteer through 19" of wheel travel..
6313b429.jpg
You've got a decent setup you got going.. Ideally you want your tie rods the same length as the distance between the beam pivot and the centerline through the ball joints. Angles at ride height do not matter! For the last time! An arc is continuous and is determined by the length of the tie rod.. The red line picture makes no sense..
 
Aaron what you have done is exactly what the red lines dictate.

You have put the pivot points for the tie rods on the same axis as the line created by the radius arm through the beam pivot bolt with tie rods the same length (or just about the same) as the beams themselves. However there is room for improvement by making the tie rods longer, and moving their pivot points out farther. I'd bet money it would almost extinguish that 1/4" of bump steer that you mention.

Your swingset BTW is one of the cleanest and most professional I have seen in a while...If I was staying TTB, and into going real fast with my truck I'd be copying your design :icon_thumby:
 
I stand corrected on the red line picture I wasn't understanding it fully. The thing that will always get us is the fact the beam and radius arm swing on a diagonal arc in relation to the chassis and steering.. One cool thing I've seen guys do is center mounted radius arms. It reduces caster issues and also helps with bump steer.. Good job guys
 

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