Project OUTRANGEROUS 4.6L Install / Phase 2

[johnboy89]

Looked up your build thread and it was great. The DOHC sure takes up more real estate then the SOHC. I'm almost done the wiring, check, check and double check, just need to tidy it up. What did you do with your fuel system. I have the 4.6 pump but it's a single line set up. The pcm looks at all the fuel line stuff, is that a problem down the road?
It's good to be able to talk with someone who has been through it already and has worked out some of the bugs.

Thanks
Ron

I used the original tank and modified the sending unit to fit the Mark VIII pump. My plans are to upgrade that pump this winter to a Walbro.

I attached a fitting to the sender assy. also ran a return line up to the engine.

 

[bobbywalter]

Rain yesterday but had some time in the garage to fool around with the fan. I got a 4 core aluminum radiator out of a 1999 Mountaineer that fits in the original bracket.
I kept the original elect. fan from the CV but it's too big with the shroud.

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This is the shroud from the original 3.0

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If you place the 3.0 shroud over the 4.6 you can see they almost fit together.

So I decided to cut away the shroud on the 4.6.

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There is a small gap around the fan that I used an 1.5" piece of poly tubing as a spacer and bolted the two together.

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This looks like it should work fine but on test fit I don't quite have enough room between the harmonic balancer and the shroud. Does'nt look to difficult to move the rad. back 1.5" there is plenty of room behind it.
Back to the drawing board, we'll see what happens.

i would consider move the radiator forward, re shrouding fans usually results in less then stellar performance. i have seen that done before on fullsize trucks with that fan and it was deemed a fail, once the right fan was fitted things changed.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

i would consider move the radiator forward, re shrouding fans usually results in less then stellar performance. i have seen that done before on fullsize trucks with that fan and it was deemed a fail, once the right fan was fitted things changed.

Thanks for the input ,

I'm going to give it a shot and see how it performs

It just fits and looks so OEM. I can always buy another elec. fan latter and replace it, I will have plenty of room. With no A/C I don't think cooling will be a major problem anyway.
I'll update info when I get this thing on the road.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

I used the original tank and modified the sending unit to fit the Mark VIII pump. My plans are to upgrade that pump this winter to a Walbro.

I attached a fitting to the sender assy. also ran a return line up to the engine.

Thanks for the reply,

How and where did you connect the return line?

What about the evap vanisters and such. Did you connect the new system from the donor car or use the original stuff? I was thinking along the same line

with regard to the pump and try to just install the CV pump and leave the Ranger sending unit.

Rjaaaaaa

 

[RJAAAAAA]

Wheels

Didn't have to much time today but had one of the tires off and thought I'd fool around with an idea I have been kicking around in my head for a while.

Awhile back I bought some paint at a discount outlet store, it was called Metalcast (Blue) by Duplicolor. If you've never seen or used it, it can really give you some nice effects. It looks like anodized metal when you spray it on shinny metal or aluminum.

I've used it on some other projects and really liked the look. So here's what I came up with for my 2001 Ranger aluminum rims.

I think it came out nice, when the truck is cleaned up and all the wheels done like this I think it will look good with the side pipes. Not to much, just a highlight. What do you think?

 

[RJAAAAAA]

4.6 Fuel lines

I searched high and low for those special Ford gas line connectors (double 0-ring type) and finally found and ordered 2 off the web. These convert from the o-ring type fitting to a 6AN threaded fitting for use with braided fuel line. The original fuel line comes up near the steering column and the fuel rail connection on the 4.6 is on the passenger side front of the engine, so I'm going to swing a 4' piece of braided fuel line behind the engine on the firewall and over to the fuel rail.

Should work and look nice too. Now all I have to do is wait for them to arrive.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

Elevtric fan and Rad.

Completed the elect. fan retrofit into the 3.0 shroud today.

After bolting the two pieces together with the spacers I sprayed expanding foam in the gap between the fan and shroud, trimed and painted it all.

Looking GOOOOOOD!!
I removed the lower rad. support from the truck to give me room to slip the radiator down & behind the original support brackets. This moved the radiator forward about 2" and down about 2". It fit fine, this let the fan and shroud bolt to the original brackets on the fan and had plenty of space between harmonic balancer and fan.

I cut a piece of used rad. hose and placed it on the lower radiator bracket as seen above, the rad. support will sit on top of this piece.
On top I had to trim the corners off the mounting ears to give it clearance under the lip of the top crossmember. I'll have to make a spacer and bolt throught the cross member.

I'll get some photos of the radiator and how it all fit together. I'll rework the lower rad. support and reinstall.

 

[johnboy89]

Thanks for the reply,

How and where did you connect the return line?

What about the evap vanisters and such. Did you connect the new system from the donor car or use the original stuff? I was thinking along the same line

with regard to the pump and try to just install the CV pump and leave the Ranger sending unit.

Rjaaaaaa

I kept the original evap canisters from the Mazda. Used the original sending unit with a bulkhead fitting in the top for the return line. Ran 3/8"??? steel line parallel with the supply line. Then used the Mark VIII OEM fuel ine to connect on the rail.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

Movin along

Finished up the radiator & fan today and got her locked down, nice fit. Welded extention on lower rad. support.
I've been researching A/C Compressor removal and what is the best way to work around it. I see that they make an a/c comp. delete bracket that is just a pulley w/ bracket to replace the compressor and still be able to use the original belt. I made the same thing using the old comp. for parts.
Remove compressor and dismantle it.

Going to use the front flange w/ it's pulley and bearing to bolt to a mounting bracket.
After fabricating the bracket, it will be mounted in the original location and will carry the belt.

Here is the pulley mounted back in the original position of the compressor.

Here it is installed and the radiator installed.

Thing are moving slow but we're moving ahead. Should be able to put in some good time the next couple of days.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

Fuel Lines are here

Received my Mr. Gasket braided fuel line and connectors today. I open up the box and knew right away they were wrong but after checking I found out it was my fault. I must of had one of those senior moments I checked the angle of the fuel rail inlet but ordered the wrong angle. the fuel rail comes off the engine at 120 degrees, the closest angle I could buy was 150 degrees. The only problem was thaT's not the angle I needed,DAHHHHH I should have ordered a 60 degree fitting or even a 45 would work.

Oh well "this too shall pass". I'll get a 45. Anyone need a 150 degree 6AN fitting?????

 

[bobbywalter]

will explorer rails work?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If it isn't needed as an idler for clearance I would ditch the pulley altogether and run a shorter belt.

They have the same thing available for my Explorer 5.0 setup, ain't happening.

 

[RJAAAAAA]

will explorer rails work?

I'm not sure, but why would you suggest Explorer rails?

 

[RJAAAAAA]

If it isn't needed as an idler for clearance I would ditch the pulley altogether and run a shorter belt.

They have the same thing available for my Explorer 5.0 setup, ain't happening.

Thanks for your input, that's why I'm posting to this site. Someone has already done whatever your thinking about doing and it sure is nice to talk to someone with experience. I'm hoping my build thread will help someone else and encourage them to try something different.
I didn't see a way to route the belt without the pulley. I did see another thread somewhere, this guy added another pulley and then rearranged the belt routing. He still purchased and idler pulley and they're not cheap. Mine was quick and easy and best of all I saved $50 by not buying the kit.
How is that ride of your's doing? Anything new?
Rjaaaaaa

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Thanks for your input, that's why I'm posting to this site. Someone has already done whatever your thinking about doing and it sure is nice to talk to someone with experience. I'm hoping my build thread will help someone else and encourage them to try something different.
I didn't see a way to route the belt without the pulley. I did see another thread somewhere, this guy added another pulley and then rearranged the belt routing. He still purchased and idler pulley and they're not cheap. Mine was quick and easy and best of all I saved $50 by not buying the kit.
How is that ride of your's doing? Anything new?
Rjaaaaaa

I am working on putting together an Explorer FEAD for it right now, and while I have the timing cover off I finally snagged an HO cam to poke in it too.

I did some looking at it appears the older Mods do require a delete kit of some sort. Can't just skip the A/C compressor pulley and run a shorter belt like the old 5.0's.