Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda

[legoms013]

That shouldn't be that hard to remove..

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I know, so ghetto. Other people have done it apparently. It's tight in there, hardly any room to move it around.

 

[escort_gts]

Did you pull both axle shafts?

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[legoms013]

No, I was lead to believe I didn't need to so I didn't. Looking back I'm not sure that would have helped. It was the member itself hanging up on the beam. If I could have moved over like 1/4" more to he right, it would have come out no Problem. But it was getting pinched the more I pried it over.

 

[escort_gts]

Did you remove the bolt on top?

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[ThatGuy]

Sorry to hijack but here's a pic of what I was talking about. Figured I'd put it in your thread so it won't be easily found.

 

[legoms013]

Did you remove the bolt on top?

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Yes the pinch bolt was removed, as well as everything else holding it in.

Brad, those arms look good! I want a set!

 

[legoms013]

Ignorance is bliss.

I found out some interesting, and expensive stuff today will taking the 3rd out.

Two of the three front u-joints are shot. The middle one and the outer driver side are pretty toast. For each there is about 1 millimeter of transverse movement up and down.

Also it seems I have egged out the u-joint holes on the ears of two shafts. The inner passenger short shaft with the slip yoke, and the inner stubbie on the drivers side.

This regearing thing is gonna cost about 40% more now with all this little shit coming up.

And to top that off, one of my brand new 3/4 ton chevy tierod ends already has some major play in it as well (about 2 milimeters) and will need replacement.

This u-joint and slip shaft are wasted:

As well as the stubbie and its u-joint:

The reason I am doing all this:

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I remove the LH axle shaft and pinch bolt and then pry the RH side of the pig out and it slips out on mine.

Do the caps spin? Tack weld em in place.

Mine was getting to the point where I was busting the tack welds and had to fully weld them to the shafts.

 

[legoms013]

I remove the LH axle shaft and pinch bolt and then pry the RH side of the pig out and it slips out on mine.

Do the caps spin? Tack weld em in place.

Mine was getting to the point where I was busting the tack welds and had to fully weld them to the shafts.

When you do it that way, do you take the passenger side apart and remove the shaft from the pig, or leave it in?

The caps are spun yes in both of the shaft segments I listed Maybe I will tack the next set in.

I wonder if it is because of the Lock-Rite? Maybe I should put it back to an open diff while it is on the bench.

Also more good news The drivers side wheel bearings were on their way out. Metal shavings and rough bearing rollers. The one race is starting to pit, and the other was badly galled.

I'm pretty pissed, since the wheel bearings are new (remember I did new ones back in Janurary? lol)

So I had to run up to the store and get two new sets of Timken bearings, and the inner/outer spindle seals ($75 freaking dollars !!! ).

Also the passenger outer tie rod end has as much play as the drivers side. WTF. I am up to at least $60 for new rod ends. I'm can't figure out why they are failing. The stock ones lasted over 200,000 miles. Now I am running 3/4 ton rod ends and they are failing after 6 months? Absolute bullshit.

Anyways it is back together and drivable for the commute to school tomorrow. On my way I will take the Diff into West Coast Differentials to have them install new gears/bearings/seals ect.

Gonna be an expensive month

Here are the pics:

Pitted race:

Galled race:

She a nekkid girl:

 

[escort_gts]

What brand bearings were you using that failed on you?

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[legoms013]

What brand bearings were you using that failed on you?

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Timken.

Though I think I know why they failed.

When I bought new rotors, they came with the bearing races already installed. So me being the lazy bastard I am, I just used the Timken rollers with the races already installed in the rotor, instead of doing the right thing and installing the Timken races in their place.

So the driver side did not have an outer spindle seal, probably allowing contaminants into the greased area(it did have the metal seal on the rotor however). (I meant to install a seal, but I did not have money at the time, and since then forgot...now I am really paying for it).

When installed the Timken races, all of 50 min ago, I found out that the galled ones that were in there are some cheap china garbage.

I guess I have a lesson to learn here? Always replace seals, and never mix and match crappy products with good products. Otherwise I might not be in this situation

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Sorry, yes I remove axle shafts from both sides.

Shitty luck on the bearings buddy.

To save those shafts you could stake em with a punch around the inside of the ears, then press in new joints and tack weld em.

Welcome to the world of locked front diffs!

 

[legoms013]

Sorry, yes I remove axle shafts from both sides.

Shitty luck on the bearings buddy.

To save those shafts you could stake em with a punch around the inside of the ears, then press in new joints and tack weld em.

Welcome to the world of locked front diffs!

I think I'm gonna take the locker out. The added traction isn't worth having to replace u-joints and shafts on a yearly basis.

After it gets back from the shop, I'll take the locker out and sell it.

Then tack weld the shafts/u-joints that are shot.

And in the meantime until those break, I will save up from new shafts and u-joints (I priced it all at about $450 from Bronco Graveyard).

I think my locker days are over.....

 

[legoms013]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/classifieds/showentry.php?e=1728

What was I thinking? I'm no rock crawler....lol.

Wish I had money for a ARB up front

 

[4.0B2]

yeah, i'm thinking that IF i ever lock the front, it'll have to be select-able.
i don't see where i'll need to on my b2 tho.

that comes when i build a trail rig...