• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

ranger refit/build thread


lower humidity so the newly blasted frame doesn't rust?

yup....actually it's not even humidity,just good old water falling out of the sky in large quantities.as often happens this time of year the jet stream is running right over the island and pulling all the moisture hanging over the pacific ocean right over us.

i want to be able to get the frame from blasting to primer before it has a chance to get wet...freshly blasted steel will rust literally in minutes.
 
I'm going to be blasting my frame in the near future and may not be able to get to paint right away. I was thinking of using a rust converter to tide me over until I have time to paint. I have no experience with this stuff, is it a viable option?

Richard
 
I'm going to be blasting my frame in the near future and may not be able to get to paint right away. I was thinking of using a rust converter to tide me over until I have time to paint. I have no experience with this stuff, is it a viable option?

Richard

it's nowhere near as good a surface for paint as bare metal.your frame should be reasonably well protected from rust,but peeling paint could become an issue.
the best thing is to get a coat of epoxy primer on it as soon after blasting as possible-if there's more work to do on the frame the primer can be ground from the area as needed.this is my plan.a nice glossy coat of black paint will follow.

refit001-5.jpg


the tires are off the rims now,and will wait by the engine for the opportunity to rejoin the(freshly painted)wheels once again.

refit002-3.jpg


the rear needs some cleanup still,and new brakes as the ones that were on it were 'borrowed' for the f350 when i got it.the ranger had new brakes all around it wasn't using and stretch needed them,so off they went.
now it's time to repay the debt.

refit003-2.jpg


the front will be picking up some width here.the d50 was narrowed some,and has a wms width of 61''.the d60 is 69'' wide.the rear,which i narrowed around 3 and a bit inches is 63'' wide.this means the front wheels will poke out 3'' further on a side than the rears.
i don't feel like setting up another rear end,so i guess i'll live with that.

refit004-3.jpg


the frame,arms,and wheels are loaded up and ready to go.

the cab and gt6 engine are just there because it's a convenient place to keep them for now.
 
why are you ditching the correct width d60 for the smaller 50?

and i've always been curious, any reason you couldn't run the right hub on the left side, and the left hub on the right side, then put the tierod on top of the mounting points for them on the spindles (so it runs over the pinion) and then the drag link somewhere near the back too (not that you have much in your way)

that way the steering components are behind the massive solid axle for protection?

of course with that simple setup like that, left would be right, and right would be left... but that could be countered by simply turning the steering box around 180* to face backwards, so a push would be a pull and a pull would be a push...
 
why are you ditching the correct width d60 for the smaller 50?

um.....other way around,bud.

the 50 is what came out of it,the wider 60 is what's going in.i doubt i'll change anything on the steering for now-if you look closely you'll notice that the pitman end of the drag link is right in line with the old one.at this point,the more things that just bolt up,the better.
 
um.....other way around,bud.

ahh, well that makes more sense then! lol

i doubt i'll change anything on the steering for now-if you look closely you'll notice that the pitman end of the drag link is right in line with the old one.at this point,the more things that just bolt up,the better.

would that work though? what i said?
 
Any hints on narrowing up a sterling Tom? I'm looking at doing it soon...my ranger is going 1 tons this winter.
 
would that work though? what i said?
it could be made to work.
Any hints on narrowing up a sterling Tom? I'm looking at doing it soon...my ranger is going 1 tons this winter.

i touched on that a bit earlier in this thread,by useing two short-side axles and shortening the one long tube to suit the short axle.this will result in the 63'' width i have.any other width will require custom axles.

you'll like the sterling...it's practically indestructable.
 
I've already narrowed my front d60...it's sitting at just shy of 62" wms to wms.

Now I just have to find a sterling...I've got a rear 60 available that is free but i hear they aren't the greatest option unless you upgrade to 35 spline shafts. Decisions...
 
the way i see it is free is better.... the $ you'd spend buying a 14 bolt would be about the same as building the 60 to do 35 splines now i havnt actually looked into this but its kinda hard to argue with free
 
I've already narrowed my front d60...it's sitting at just shy of 62" wms to wms.

Now I just have to find a sterling...I've got a rear 60 available that is free but i hear they aren't the greatest option unless you upgrade to 35 spline shafts. Decisions...

sterlings are everywhere.i've got a bunch of them,but it would cost more to come get one than to find one there.i'd stay away from the 60...the cost of upgrading it woud be more than just buying a 10.25,you'd get a weaker diff,and then there's the whole brake service issue.

while 1'' difference between the front and rear diffs is no issue,if you really wanted you could probably cut 1/2'' from the end of each axle and cut the tubes to suit,getting a 62'' wms on the rear.there should be enough spline to do this,but if you do want to,double check the axle spline engagement with the side gears to make sure.it's not something i've personally tried with this diff.
 
Hmmm now to keep my eyes out for a sterling
 
i could be mistaken but im pretty sure rangersvt just got rid of a sterling because the shafts have a neck down in them and you cant narrow them. im looking through his thread now to see if im wrong lol
 
Hmmm now to keep my eyes out for a sterling

every 250 and 350 from the early '80s on had one in it.if you ever get to logging country-like say,north-central british columbia,terrace to prince rupert area is a good place to look....there's about 4 of these trucks hanging around for every man,woman,and child in the area.

look in peoples yards for derelicts rotting in yards.you might even get paid to yank it out...as long as you take the whole truck.
logging outfit yards are another good place to look,they usually have a few hanging around they'd just as soon be rid of.that's how i got stretch...bought two derelict f350s for $1000.from those i built strech,and have a bunch of leftover goodies for other projects.that's where the 60 in the above photo came from.it even had all new steering and u-joints in it:icon_thumby:
 
Last edited:
I should go back to the scrap yard I picked my 60 up from...they might have the sterling still siting there now that I think of it. Only payed $100 for the front 60...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Special Events

Events TRS Was At This Year

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top