Stonecrusher type steering

[legoms013]

This is mine. Not saying its better than anything else but it is all TRE and NO WELDING.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83547

Any clearance issues?

 

[Bent Bolt]

Oh yeah

left side fully compressed

front end in the air

driver side view

 

[Bent Bolt]

Doesn't hit anywhere.

 

[4x4junkie]

Rag joints look new how do u adjust the box?

Some info here in this thread:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35831&highlight=meshload

 

[bobbywalter]

bent, have you folded up or ripped anything in half yet?


that was an issue i had was destroying these when running sleeved up top.

 

[Bent Bolt]

bent, have you folded up or ripped anything in half yet?


that was an issue i had was destroying these when running sleeved up top.

No problems yet. It is a F350 sleeve . I got my inspiration from this

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12763-76-77-tie-rod-conversion-3-way-adjustability.html

If they can do it , so can I.

 

[bobbywalter]

i can see 350 parts inspiring confidence bent .... with the s/c cammer you are making enough power to bust shit in a hot hurry too....with those dogs you are rolling on, seems if the setup was gonna fail it would not take ya long to find it i bet that thing moves along pretty good..


f350 sleeve is good if its a late type. the early ones aren't much, and the same as the late ranger fat side iirc.

looking at the old pics, you have the setup i was looking for, as it should eliminate the odd jolt i would get on diagonal rail crossings. and still hydro assist capable.

does the Ackerman stay put so it dont push steer? i had a slight loss of it depending on what setup i was running and in certain weather conditions it was noticeable on off/on ramps that were circular.

you can see the potential issues in the old pics, the janky camber tard look is gone, but comes at a slight cost to handling on pavement..tires wear great though.

still have decent ack, but it is decreased....

good range

problems usually start when wedged and unloading to max.

i was on a waterfall and generally a good climb when i bent or ripped the links apart...the angle they end up at pretty much answers why.

looks like you nailed it i will try it before i waste any more time on crossover stuff. thanks

 

[97fordrunner]

concern with that set up is does the center TRE for the drivers side have enough movement when at full droop? like getting a little air hopping over a abrupt hill?.

 

[legoms013]

concern with that set up is does the center TRE for the drivers side have enough movement when at full droop? like getting a little air hopping over a abrupt hill?.

I'm guessing it does, but bent will have to confirm. It looks similar to the chevy double-pivot drag link ends and if it is of similar design, I know first hand those double-pivots have a huge range of motion.

 

[The_Dealer]

I adjusted the steering box and it helped a lot, but still has some play. Guess its time for a new steering box

 

[Bent Bolt]

I'm guessing it does, but bent will have to confirm. It looks similar to the chevy double-pivot drag link ends and if it is of similar design, I know first hand those double-pivots have a huge range of motion.

That is what I used and so far hasn't been an issue.

 

[Bent Bolt]

i can see 350 parts inspiring confidence bent .... with the s/c cammer you are making enough power to bust shit in a hot hurry too....with those dogs you are rolling on, seems if the setup was gonna fail it would not take ya long to find it i bet that thing moves along pretty good..



does the Ackerman stay put so it dont push steer? i had a slight loss of it depending on what setup i was running and in certain weather conditions it was noticeable on off/on ramps that were circular.

you can see the potential issues in the old pics, the janky camber tard look is gone, but comes at a slight cost to handling on pavement..tires wear great though.


looks like you nailed it i will try it before i waste any more time on crossover stuff. thanks

I've never measured -ie: wheel alginment - Ackerman but it does have it , eyeball's OK and doesn't feel strange on pavement. Keep in mind that I don't drive it on the street very much. Welded rear and them damn wide tires make it a handful at the best of times BUT before and after the steering mods were huge. Much less sawing on the steering wheel to keep it straight down the road.
Speaking of tires and SC 4.0 , as you can see in the pic's, the left axle shaft was missing because it literally scattered to the point I had to cut it out with the torch. So after that , I blew a left hub and the second shaft started spinning the caps and the lock-right was making funny noises. So I think " crappy locker failed , Oh well , lots of power and rubber will do that. I finally pull the pumpkin and what do I see ? The lock right did fail BUT it wasn't the cause. The damn carrier bearing cap on the left side was in three pieces! It must of broke when the first shaft exploded.
Next year I wanna SAS it with a D44 with RCV CV shafts.

 

[legoms013]

Just for future reference, no matter what kind of steering set up a person runs, flat tie rods minimizes most (if not all perceivable in the cab) bumpsteer and increases drivability considerably.

Here is a good picture of what I mean by flat, and not angled upward tie-rods:

 

[AaronC]

Just for future reference, no matter what kind of steering set up a person runs, flat tie rods minimizes most (if not all perceivable in the cab) bumpsteer and increases drivability considerably.

Here is a good picture of what I mean by flat, and not angled upward tie-rods:

The tie rods are swinging on completely different arcs than the beams.. Look at how short they are. It's definitely a improvement from stock..

How much does the superlift steering system run?

My setup would work with a truck using huge drop brackets. The swinger would have to be hung lower on the frame rail. Also, a drop pitman would help out..

 

[legoms013]

Their shortness is irrelevant. The bumpsteer produced is not perceived in the cab, even if it *is* happening due to the difference in length between the tie-rods and beams as long as they are matched and flat.

No its not a perfect system obviously, but it provides the best in durability, and drivabilty for slow speed rock crawling and general offroading bang for your buck.

The kit runs right about $450. But I don't recommend buying a new one since you have to cut it up and modify it anyway...

My setup cost about $560 with a used superrunner kit, due to me having to buy steel, tubing, TRE's and DRE's, reamer, tap, RBV TRE and having the tierods milled and tapped. I only pull 11"-12" of wheel travel so having absolutely zero bumpsteer what so ever is moot point anyway.

For a pre-runner with more travel, its imperative to at least use a single swinger, maybe even dual swingers to achieve next to zero bumpsteer throughout the massive arc of the suspension.