It was just a thought, I had read that when you undid the battery to reset the comp, it would get better mileage, so I just guess that it might be something wrong with after it has been used awhile.
Robert
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- Thread starter multiranger
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It was just a thought, I had read that when you undid the battery to reset the comp, it would get better mileage, so I just guess that it might be something wrong with after it has been used awhile.
Robert
I put more gas in today.. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow. I'll post up the results when I get to the office.. I think it is doing much better now but I have thought that before...
As for my header tubes them things get hot.. I measured them before. I think they saw 300 - 500 degrees F.. Not sure though. That is how I learned one of the injectors was clogged the tube stayed cold...
Recap of what I have done to the engine..
New injectors, Plugs, wires, Screamin Demon Coil, fuelpump, fuel regulator, fuel filter,
speed sensor... That is all I can think of right now..
As for my header tubes them things get hot.. I measured them before. I think they saw 300 - 500 degrees F.. Not sure though. That is how I learned one of the injectors was clogged the tube stayed cold...
Recap of what I have done to the engine..
New injectors, Plugs, wires, Screamin Demon Coil, fuelpump, fuel regulator, fuel filter,
speed sensor... That is all I can think of right now..
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It was just a thought, I had read that when you undid the battery to reset the comp, it would get better mileage, so I just guess that it might be something wrong with after it has been used awhile.
Robert
I hope you are right buddy!
Well in 53 miles to work with 30 min or more of idle in traffic the gas gauge didn't really move.. before it would have dropped 1/4 or there about... I am hoping!! I'll fill it up this weekend and see from there....
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 5,360
- State - Country
- GA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
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- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- few inches
- Tire Size
- ~30"
Looks like I'll be headed that way on Sunday the 22nd, but I won't have the time or money to parts hunting. Meeting RangerSVT just the other side of the state line. Got a good deal on everything I need to convert my front suspension over to the twin piston calipers. Plus DJM Beams to replace my first gen ones, 2" drop coils that I don't know if I want yet, and flip brackets for the rear axle that I don't need because I'll be running Explorer style. $350 for all of it which I think is a hell of a deal considering I'd pay that just for a new set of beams, then probably about another $200 for the other parts I needed (spindles, calipers, balljoints, etc.). Figure that since I won't be needing my first gen beams I can probably sell then and the flip brackets together and get back a large part of what I spent.
Then I also just bought one of the 12" brake bracket kits off Gumby on RPS.
So I've got most of what I need to make the truck go faster (V8), and now all but one or two parts to make make it stop faster as well (brake upgrades all around).
So far excluding the parts I already had from the truck I totaled (can't remember ammount there). I've got about $1500 in this swap total (so far), that's a $500 Ranger, $500 Explorer, $500 worth of brake parts/suspension parts. Figure by the time I part out what I can of the remainder of the Explorer, and scrap it and the totaled Ranger I might just get most of that back.
Looks like I'll be headed that way on Sunday the 22nd, but I won't have the time or money to parts hunting. Meeting RangerSVT just the other side of the state line. Got a good deal on everything I need to convert my front suspension over to the twin piston calipers. Plus DJM Beams to replace my first gen ones, 2" drop coils that I don't know if I want yet, and flip brackets for the rear axle that I don't need because I'll be running Explorer style. $350 for all of it which I think is a hell of a deal considering I'd pay that just for a new set of beams, then probably about another $200 for the other parts I needed (spindles, calipers, balljoints, etc.). Figure that since I won't be needing my first gen beams I can probably sell then and the flip brackets together and get back a large part of what I spent.
Then I also just bought one of the 12" brake bracket kits off Gumby on RPS.
So I've got most of what I need to make the truck go faster (V8), and now all but one or two parts to make make it stop faster as well (brake upgrades all around).
So far excluding the parts I already had from the truck I totaled (can't remember ammount there). I've got about $1500 in this swap total (so far), that's a $500 Ranger, $500 Explorer, $500 worth of brake parts/suspension parts. Figure by the time I part out what I can of the remainder of the Explorer, and scrap it and the totaled Ranger I might just get most of that back.
Sounds like you got it going on bud! Not bad at all!!
Looks like the MPGs are where they should be but I'm not so sure just yet.. I made it back home and used (according to gauge) less a little less than 1/4 tank.... I'll fill it up this weekend and see for sure...
Yea, I'm betting on the fact that that is a temporary fix for a real problem. Prob not real serious, but something is going on. Remember your computer, when reset, goes back to the factory maping for timing and fuel trim. But as you drive it, it learns and adjusts based on what the sensors are telling it. So if there is a minor problem, it will bring you right back to square one, bad gas milage.
For sh!ts and giggles, Id pull the air filter and see what that looks like, and then check the maf and screen to make sure they are clean and operating right. You still have all the vacume lines on this? If so, spray the engine down with carb cleaner or brake clean and see if there is a leak, or fluxuation in idle. Or mabye you have a vac gague? Cant remember now.
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If you get the money and time, go to Pull-A-Part or U-Pull, or what ever they are called, and pickup another computer, I still think there is something wonky in it.
But that is just me.
Robert
But that is just me.
Robert
I've checked for vac leaks cleaned the MAf with Maf cleaner ect.. I made some changes to the truck such as the rearend change / speed sensor on the tail of the tranny and injectors so I am thinking maybe the ECM needs to re learn those parts plus some I may have forgot I changed... I am totally guessing.. not sure if you saw or not but a few times I got a code for the TPS too low on Voltage.. It happened twice but months apart...
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I agree completly with you but I think it will be next to impossible to find a 92 4.0 manual without EGR.. I haven't seen a Ranger with a 4.0 in the yards I have been to. Only Splorers....
I've checked for vac leaks cleaned the MAf with Maf cleaner ect.. I made some changes to the truck such as the rearend change / speed sensor on the tail of the tranny and injectors so I am thinking maybe the ECM needs to re learn those parts plus some I may have forgot I changed... I am totally guessing.. not sure if you saw or not but a few times I got a code for the TPS too low on Voltage.. Is happened twice but months apart...
Hmm, not sure if a flakey TPS would give you bad gas milage most of the time, especially if it acted up just once in a while. It could be the computer I guess. I would think a computer would tend to be bad all the time, not just some of it, but you never know. Grabbing another one wont hurt you any I guess, to see if they run different from each other.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 5,360
- State - Country
- GA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- few inches
- Tire Size
- ~30"
Sure it could. The TPS is tending a signal to the computer telling it how much the throttle is open, which the computer in turn uses to control the fuel injectors. If the TPS is off it could have the truck running a good bit richer than it needs to be. Keep in mind usually certain parameters have to be met before codes are thrown. You could have a degrading sensor that works ok most of the time, but occasionally drops out of allowable limits and triggering a code.
It could e the computer, and I to would think with a bad computer it would be off most of the time. On the other hand the computer learns from the sensors, and if it's learning from bad information...
I may get a TPS since it's only around 20 bucks or so... First I want to run a full tank of gas though.. then I can have a base to go on
I realize that, but in that same token, it would make the idle wander around some too (up and down). Could just have a dead spot in it, down in the "just onto the throtle" range. You can test them by cycling the throtle open, and reading the volts. But its not always very easy to find a dead spot, as they are pretty sensative from what I have seen. For $20, it might not be a bad thing to just replace and rule out either.
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