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Best clutch for rock crawling ( high torque conditions)


mazdamama

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
285
Age
35
City
reno/sparks Nevada
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
just trying to get some opinions. I run 37s woth 5.13 gears, and do a decent amount of crawling, I burned my hays super truck up after about two years of moderate to heavy driving. To replace it I just bought a centerforce stage II ,which I have read is basically the same clutch, with same organic material but slightly higher quality parts. Anyway it was the only other one on summits website that said it was heavy duty enough for commercial towing/ offroad use. The other ones were for high horsepower street use mainly.
 
just trying to get some opinions. I run 37s woth 5.13 gears, and do a decent amount of crawling, I burned my hays super truck up after about two years of moderate to heavy driving. To replace it I just bought a centerforce stage II ,which I have read is basically the same clutch, with same organic material but slightly higher quality parts. Anyway it was the only other one on summits website that said it was heavy duty enough for commercial towing/ offroad use. The other ones were for high horsepower street use mainly.

You aren't necessarily looking for a "high torque" application, because you go through clutches from burning them, not from too much power.

Your best bet is to get a crawlbox. Otherwise stop buying expensive clutches, because you are going to burn them up anyways.
 
Yup... time for a doubler, or atlas.
 
X3... what Wahlstrom and NMB2 said! :icon_thumby:
 
Right, can you guys think of any affordable solution. I obviously don't have money for an atlas. And at this point I don't have much time to mess with the trial and error of building a doubler. I say that because I know there's a lot of precision involved and most things I build have to be fixed or modified eventually. Anyone selling doublers right now that you guys would recommend.
 
There are a few guys over on RRORC selling doublers. All you have to do is assemble them. With the exception of the linkages, it could easily be done in a weekend. I run the Stubler from Gremlinstein. However, I am not sure if he is making them anymore. But there are a few over there making them last I checked.
 
Ok thanks I'll check that out.
Will putting the truck in gear to park while the clutch is hot cause it to wear faster as well? I have to admit I havnt had a parking brake since I did my sas.
 
Kyle M's thinking about selling his.... He's in Michigan though,
 
no, putting it in gear makes no difference. once you release the clutch pedal, it clamps the clutch disc.... doesnt matter if you're in neutral or in gear. when the clutch pedal is completely depressed, thats when it is allowed to cool.
 
Oh, ok thanks. So I got the clutch off tonight and the pressure plate side material was completely gone and the pins were all ground up but the flywheel side still had probably about 50% still left. What is it that I'm doing that might be causing such excessive wear on the pressure plate side?
 
My guess is, it is a softer material than the flywheel. The pressure plate is more of a throw away item than the flywheel is.
 
Ok thanks I'll check that out.
Will putting the truck in gear to park while the clutch is hot cause it to wear faster as well? I have to admit I havnt had a parking brake since I did my sas.
Wear only occurs when the clutch is being slipped, wear doesn't occur when it is fully engaged or disengaged.
 

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