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Which is the absolute best clutch kit and slave cylinder?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike Tonon
  • Start date Start date

Or if you have yours resurfaced be sure to put a shim of the same thickness that was removed from surfacing between crankshaft and flywheel.

This is interesting, this topic has come up a LOT over the years and the general consensus was always that shimming is not needed because the the slave cylinder has enough throw to make up for the hundredths of an inch that would be ground off.

I personally have never shimmed and never had an issue but I agree with you that it should be done. And FWIW I've never taken measurements before and after, nor has the machine shop told me how much they removed.

Fortunately in the Ranger world, new flywheels are cheap and easy to find, I'd hate to have to buy a new flywheel for other cars though. Years ago we were doing a 460 swap in an F150 and were going to use a manual behind it... had an auto. The correct flywheel was $350!!!!!!
 
I just went to bleed my clutch. Looked at my clutch master cylinder in the cab, first. The things wet. I messaged my buddy, because I think this is still under warranty. I had him put in a factory master (which was something like $185!) and everything was fine for months. Now it’s wet, just like the original one.
 
No clutch slipping or noise and I don’t see any brake fluid leaking out by the bell housing. So I think maybe it’s just a bad master cylinder, again.
 
My buddy just got back to me. He said I probably need a new clutch, because the master cylinder might be working too hard and that’s why that’s leaking again. What do you guys think?
 
Does not make sense to me. Many thousands of trucks out there with the same setup and they don't have problems. Quality control isn't any good any more...it's cheaper for companies to make us do the quality control and this is what happens.
 
Does not make sense to me. Many thousands of trucks out there with the same setup and they don't have problems. Quality control isn't any good any more...it's cheaper for companies to make us do the quality control and this is what happens.

I don’t know what Canada puts on their roads, at least where you are, but in Connecticut, they’re using corrosive stuff. Plus the truck sat alot years back. I’m wonder if it’s very rusty in their and stiff?
 
We aren't the rust belt, but they do use some type of salt. It's pretty rare to find a rust free truck after they're 8 - 19 years old up here. As far as the clutch being affected by whatever they use on roads I don't think it's feasible. It's a similar system to brakes in that there is a friction material and steel but instead of stopping the truck it makes it go. If it affected brakes the same way then maybe.
 
Well, then what caused my slave cylinder to possibly be so stiff?
 
dust from a worn disk settling on the slave? there is supposed to be a big rubber bellows that keeps the area clean.
 
Maybe I’ll try spraying up there with something. The clutch isn’t slipping and everything else seems good. I really hate to do all this work, because of dust.
 
due to the design of the sleeves that probably won't work. did you take the inspection plug out and look in there yet?
 
due to the design of the sleeves that probably won't work. did you take the inspection plug out and look in there yet?

I looked up there, recently. I couldn’t see much. Would it be a bad idea to try to blow it out with air?
 
the spinning clutch creates lots of air turbulence, I doubt more air would hurt anything

"what could possibly go wrong" wear a mask and goggles
 

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