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ForOffRoadDriving's 94 Ranger Build


once the paint dried i installed the outer axle bearings and seals along with the pinion races

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then i got out my rotary tool and sanded down the inner races of both pinion bearings so that they would be a slip fit incase i had to change the pinion shim out

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i took a break for lunch and while i was inside i got out the wax paper, masking tape, and a marker and made a new smiley face, but i didnt like how it turned out so i came up with this....
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i initially wanted to paint the eyes and teeth red and the face yellow, but i was out of both and it was Easter sunday so i settled for some Grabber Green!

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once the paint had started to dry i used a dentist pick and carefully rolled up the edges of the tape until i could grab them with some small needle nose pliers and removes them. after it finished drying i gave the cover 2 coats of clear engine enamel and lined up the camera for my new avatar pic.

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after assembling the pinion using the original shim, i grabbed my pinion flange tool and tightened the nut until the play in the bearing disappeared and continued to tighten until the in/lb torque wrench registered 18 in/lb turning resistance.

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changing the ring gear was a bit of a chore also, but the large chisel i purchased earlier in the month changed the old rings attitude! torquing the nuts was a bit tricky at first but i was able to use a large pry bar to give me the leverage i needed.

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once the darkness came i closed the garage door and started setting up the carrier with the shim kit i bought. id say i came pretty damn close to specs but id like some opinions on the pattern.

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i guess i'll finally subscribe to this...instead of just looking at it when i see it on new posts.. lol.

i still like the guard. might make one for my d30 so i don't have to buy a $100 diff cover lol
 
i guess i'll finally subscribe to this...instead of just looking at it when i see it on new posts.. lol.

i still like the guard. might make one for my d30 so i don't have to buy a $100 diff cover lol

exactly, we drive rangers so we fab our own shit!:icon_welder:
 
hey man, pattern could be a bit better, but Ive run similar in the past. Are you applying load to your carrier (in opposite direction) when you turn the pinion? there has to be a load on the carrier, not just turning the ring with the pinion. Either install an axleshaft and have a buddy hold it, or wrap a towel around the carrier. If there isnt a load, than youre not getting a proper pattern reading.

Also are those gears new or used? if used focus on coast side.
 
I worked on the gear set some more last night for a couple of hours, but im not happy with the results...... so ill just work at it some more. i changed the original pinion shim out for one a bit thicker (from .023 to .025), but now my pattern looks too close to the edge of the teeth. this is a new gear set so im going by preload the specs for new bearings and following the .010" BL engraved into the gear set. i think i may also have too much preload on the carrier bearings when im doing this, the richmond instructions say to use .010" preload on the carrier assembly but im not sure if i should be adding a .010" shim after getting my pattern or before? as of now the carrier doesnt just fall into place, i have to tip the carirer races in slightly to clear the shims, then using my brass hammer i tap them inwards at the top and then tap the races down into the housing until its seated. heres the pics of the pattern, i measured the back lash at .012" which is within the .004" tolerance they give you.

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i wanted to work on the gears some more last night, but it was rainy and cold so i just stayed inside for the night.... but that doesnt mean nothing got done. with spring finally gettig here its time to pull out the snow scraper and put the fishing pole back in the truck, but i dont want my pole to get smashed by cargo so i made a pole holder out of a foam finger.

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i found this bucket cooler / fishing seat in the dumpster at work, but clearly it isnt garbage!

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my birthday present to my self showed up yesterday so i got a pleasant surprise when i got home.

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after inserting the wire into each flare and leaving a little extra hanging out on each end, i still had this much wire left over! i think theyre going to look good but after dry fitting them they look like theyre too short to cover the entire wheel opening?

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once it got dark i started working on the gears again and decided to clearance the ring gear for the cross pin before i got too much farther and forgot about it.

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with the advice and feedback i got in my axle thread lastnight, i decided to changed out the pinion shim from .025" to .030" and it got me alot closer. heres a shot of how im starting the carrier into the case, once its sitting level i start to tap the tops of the races inwards and then working side to side, i tap the races into the housing until they are fully seated.

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in order to keep track of my measurements i made up a little sketch and jotted down my dimensions

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checking the back lash in 3 points proved that i was headed in the right direction as i got an .011", a .009", and a .010".

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and heres my pattern as of now, tell me what ya think?

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looks much better man. Its not perfect, but I would run that no problem. Did you already set carrier bearing preload? if not add equal amount of shims to both sides now, it WILL be a b!itch to get back in, but should be the last time it goes it :D. When setting pinion bearing preload, remember that when you use that inch pound wrench, you spin wrench, and read it WHILE its turning, NOT the initial reading when it starts to turn. Good job buddy.
 

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