Help indentifying some parts?

Hey everyone, I just recently picked this Ranger up as a project. I intend to make it a mild off-road toy, but obviously need to get the engine running first.

I have a box of parts to tune it up, along with a list of what I am planning on doing. I did away with most all the emission stuff due to the PO hacking into it, and also just to clean things up and make it easier to work on. There are a few things I had some questions about though. This is the first 2.3 I’ve ever worked on, so I’m not all that familiar. I have a factory manual on the way, but in the meantime I was wondering if I could get some help identifying these parts and whether I need them or not. I have already bought a ’96 Ranger factory header, which will clean up that side, and still looking into what intake manifold and carb to go with, but basically I am trying to eliminate anything I don’t need, and going for the basics.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Here is the engine bay:


The connection with the 2 vac lines?


The connection up against the fender next to the black box that houses the "MCU"


Inside the black box - The MCU (Microcomputer control unit)....?????


The box of tune of parts and shot of the interior


Bad picture, no room in the garage but just to show some lines and say hello....

where are you in Oregon?

I'm not too up on the carbed 2.3's so I'm probably not the most help... the only carbureted engines I know well are air cooled and usually single cylinder, or propane...

Hmmmm...I've seen this configuration on a Mustang or some other vehicle...but not exactly sure about the black box...I think it was an early version of the Idle Control Module that morphed into the black wire box in later models...

The connector near the firewall looks like the one I had on my smog pump...that you seem to be missing currently...and the one on the passenger fender is about where I have the test for the EECV or whatever it was called....mine was some form of code tester that I've never figured out since it was just another greasy mess...

Your service manual might give you more information, but I was surprised that the new Ford techs have absolutely no clue about carb systems and vacuum lines...if you can find an old school mechanic...if needed...they tend to know these systems inside and out and can tell you what you need to know...hopefully you won't have to search for them because most are retired by now...or moved on to bigger and better things...

Edit: Are you planning on dumping the power steering? That might free up some HP and drop the weight a bit...I had PS on my current Ranger with the 2.9 but when I yanked that I also swapped in the steering box from a manual unit along with my other front end pieces...since I just had some of it replaced anyway...

You might also consider moving up to the 88 version of 2.0 wiring if you can find the whole inside harness...it has the newer electronic version of the ignition and is pretty simple to swap in...

scotts90ranger said:

where are you in Oregon?

I'm not too up on the carbed 2.3's so I'm probably not the most help... the only carbureted engines I know well are air cooled and usually single cylinder, or propane...

Click to expand...

I live in Independence, so not too far from you! Sweet Ranger you have - looks like fun. I’m new to these 2.3’s, whether they are EFI or carbureted… Before I bought my Ranger, I didn’t even know they made 2.3 4x4’s… I’d worked on my buddies ’94 before, but not too in depth.

Mark_88 said:

Hmmmm...I've seen this configuration on a Mustang or some other vehicle...but not exactly sure about the black box...I think it was an early version of the Idle Control Module that morphed into the black wire box in later models...

The connector near the firewall looks like the one I had on my smog pump...that you seem to be missing currently...and the one on the passenger fender is about where I have the test for the EECV or whatever it was called....mine was some form of code tester that I've never figured out since it was just another greasy mess...

Your service manual might give you more information, but I was surprised that the new Ford techs have absolutely no clue about carb systems and vacuum lines...if you can find an old school mechanic...if needed...they tend to know these systems inside and out and can tell you what you need to know...hopefully you won't have to search for them because most are retired by now...or moved on to bigger and better things...

Edit: Are you planning on dumping the power steering? That might free up some HP and drop the weight a bit...I had PS on my current Ranger with the 2.9 but when I yanked that I also swapped in the steering box from a manual unit along with my other front end pieces...since I just had some of it replaced anyway...

You might also consider moving up to the 88 version of 2.0 wiring if you can find the whole inside harness...it has the newer electronic version of the ignition and is pretty simple to swap in...

Click to expand...

So basically it’s most likely all for my emission stuff and the feedback carb? If so, I shouldn’t really have to worry about it because I’m doing away with those parts… So I should be able to remove all that stuff as well? I just want to make sure I have everything I need as far as the bare essentials haha.

I really appreciate the suggestions, please keep them coming! I’m not sure and to be honest hadn’t thought about removing the PS pump. I figured I would probably keep it, but since you bring up your manual steering conversion, I’ll do some research and look into it. I heard somewhere that older Ford PS pumps are prone to going bad, any truth to this, or just hearsay?

Is ’88 when they changed to electronic ignition? I have a new ignition control module that my truck came with when I bought it. I was planning on installing it when I put the rest of my “box of parts” in.

Box of new parts include:
-Distributor
-Ignition control module
-Distributor cap and rotor
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug wires
-Serpentine belt
-Timing belt kit
-Thermostat
-Thermostat housing, and gasket
-Radiator cap
-Water pump
-Upper radiator hose
-Lower radiator hose
-Heater hose
-Fuel filter
-Air filter
-Oil drain plug
-Wipers

Any suggested parts to add while I’m at it?

Sounds like a pretty complete tune up. I would do cam seal and front crank seal while you are in there. I would replace the ignition coil as well, since you are doing the rest of the ignition. I do not recommend buying any MSD blaster coil, or any product from Accel. I would replace the timing belt tensioner if your kit does not include it. Esslinger makes a nice one-link. You may want to get a new oil cap as well, since it has the pcv valve in it.

I just took another look at the black box and could see that the wiring goes into the Idle Control Module...kinda hidden in there...so, yeah, if your carb doesn't have an idle kick down on it then you can pretty much forget about it...

One of those wires does go to the electric choke, but not sure where it feeds from...there should be two clips on your wire harness right near the carb...one is for the ICM and the other is choke...

Looks like you've got a couple of hours play there with those new parts though...

upnsmoke said:

Sounds like a pretty complete tune up. I would do cam seal and front crank seal while you are in there. I would replace the ignition coil as well, since you are doing the rest of the ignition. I do not recommend buying any MSD blaster coil, or any product from Accel. I would replace the timing belt tensioner if your kit does not include it. Esslinger makes a nice one-link. You may want to get a new oil cap as well, since it has the pcv valve in it.

Click to expand...

Good call on the cam and crank seals. Supposedly the PO replaced the head, so the cam seal is probably alright but I’d still like to change it along with the crank seal for cheap insurance while I’m in there as you suggested. I tested my ignition coil and it checked out all good, but what coil would you suggest? Just an OEM style? I did get a new tensioner with the timing belt kit, seems to look good quality and nice. I bought a PCV valve but I didn’t even realize that it was in the oil cap, so once again thank you and good call on that, I’ll add them all to the list! Haha.

Mark_88 said:

I just took another look at the black box and could see that the wiring goes into the Idle Control Module...kinda hidden in there...so, yeah, if your carb doesn't have an idle kick down on it then you can pretty much forget about it...

One of those wires does go to the electric choke, but not sure where it feeds from...there should be two clips on your wire harness right near the carb...one is for the ICM and the other is choke...

Looks like you've got a couple of hours play there with those new parts though...

Click to expand...

Thanks again Mark. I’m still waiting on my manual in the mail and eager to start on everything, and remove what I can. It will definitely take a bit of time, but it’ll all be worth it to wake it up again. It’s been hibernating for far too long.

I like oem style coils. Motorcraft, Napa Echlin, Standard motor, etc. Front seals are cheap and easy. You will likely need a puller to get the crank pulley off though.

upnsmoke said:

I like oem style coils. Motorcraft, Napa Echlin, Standard motor, etc. Front seals are cheap and easy. You will likely need a puller to get the crank pulley off though.

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for your input man. I’ve already looked the seals up at the local parts store and the crank seal is around $25-$30 and the cam seal is $8-$10. I can get a puller from them as well, just pay for it up front, and get reimbursed when I bring it back. Ends up free besides gas used driving to and from. As you said, cheap and easy insurance while I’m in there.

Just got my 1984 factory Ford Ranger and Bronco II manual in the mail today.

DrewNukesEm said:

Thanks again Mark. I’m still waiting on my manual in the mail and eager to start on everything, and remove what I can. It will definitely take a bit of time, but it’ll all be worth it to wake it up again. It’s been hibernating for far too long.

Click to expand...

Mine sat for about 6 years...it was a sad time for me because I had all that investment and no joy...but the wait was worth it...even though I may have to start rebuilding again...but only the major stuff...lol

DrewNukesEm said:

Just got my 1984 factory Ford Ranger and Bronco II manual in the mail today.

Click to expand...

Coool...so you might be missing in action from here for a few hours...

Mark_88 said:

Mine sat for about 6 years...it was a sad time for me because I had all that investment and no joy...but the wait was worth it...even though I may have to start rebuilding again...but only the major stuff...lol



Coool...so you might be missing in action from here for a few hours...

Click to expand...

Haha, not yet. I'm still want to do a little more research and still need to order a couple more parts, then I'm diving in and probably won't be back untill I'm done. Okay that's a lie, honestly it's hard to stay away.