89 ranger dies when slowing down

just_learning · Feb 12, 2008

Hi forum,
Newbie here.
1989 2.3 L dual plug EFI 2wd Ranger with a recently rebuilt engine dies when slowing down. Just replaced the battery this weekend, and now, have run into the stall/dieing problem. It ran well for the first two months of operation after the rebuild and inspection.
It starts fine, Idles properly at warm-up and idles down to around 800 rpm and runs well in city traffic for about the first ten minutes. Then about 90 percent of the time it will die as you slow down for a stop. The dieing occurs whether the speed is 45mph or 30mph or 20mph. Also, The dieing problem began the day I replaced the battery. Now, after the engine is warm, As soon as you depress the clutch and get it to neutral to brake, it dies.

Whats going on??
P.S. I know that the only engine code I occasionally see is the ERG valve. The ERG code has been inturmittant since the rebuild -- see no other code.

THanks in advance.... Help!?!?!!

pedal2themetal45 · Feb 13, 2008

If you keep you foot on the gas a little well it keep running.
When you changed the battery could you have pulled a vacuum line off by accident? Some of the vacuum lines don't have vacuum untill the motor warms up. Thus it wouldn't have any effect untill the motor was warm. which would be about 10 mins.
Just some food for thought.
Tim

just_learning · Feb 14, 2008

how to find the vaccuum leak

So, what is a good way to find the leak, if there is one?

A friend at work suggests a careful spraying of carb cleaner on all the Vac lines would show a leak while the engine was running. He said the effect would be a change in idle speed, usually higher RPM.

ANY thoughts? Is that a safe way to detect a leak once the engine is warm and while it is running??

pedal2themetal45 · Feb 14, 2008

Yes thats works fine.. Some people have even used an unlit hand torch or WD40.. I've never tried eather of those, but use Carb cleaner all the time.. and if you find a leak the RPMs well go up..
I would us the little tube that comes with the carb cleaner so you can be more direct with the spray. Don't just spray the ends spary the hole line as it might be cracked or something like that
good luck
tim

Earl43P · Feb 14, 2008

I think your EGR valve is sticking open.

Pull the vacuum line off the egr valve, plug it with something (so you don't create a vacuum leak), then test drive it.

Egr only works in closed loop (warmed up).

jarz21 · Feb 15, 2008

just_learning said:
So, what is a good way to find the leak, if there is one?

A friend at work suggests a careful spraying of carb cleaner on all the Vac lines would show a leak while the engine was running. He said the effect would be a change in idle speed, usually higher RPM.

ANY thoughts? Is that a safe way to detect a leak once the engine is warm and while it is running??

Whenever trying to find air leaks on motorcycles, I like to use starter fluid. It's not as harsh as carb cleaner and evaporates very quickly. Has the same effect of increasing engine speed when it finds a leak.

just_learning · Feb 16, 2008

it was a sticky EGR valve

I checked for leaks by spraying the vac lines and vac clusters and tees with carb cleaner. Nothing changed. But I did notice that the idle rpm was waivering regularly between almost 1000 and about 700.
I took it over to a freind who had a code reader & we checked everything again. He found the EGR code & that the valve reading was 'too high.' So, we pulled a strong vacuum on the EGR, and made the engine keep running. That cleared out the particle or the carbon that was holding the EGR valve open.
We reattached the vac line and ran it at 2000 rpm for a minute and then opened the thottle for a second. The engine came down to a smooth and steady 700 rpm idle. no rpm waivering. We turned it off, turned the key on, re-checked the codes, found none.
Problem solved--It was a sticky EGR-just sticking open at idle. I am running a strong dose of RED-Line SI-1 complete fuel system cleaner through this tank of gas just to ensure the job is complete.
Many thanks for the ideas about the EGR and the 10 minute warm-up period running open at cruise. EGR open at idle is a bad thing!

pedal2themetal45 · Feb 18, 2008

glad you got it fixed..
tim

Harris · Feb 19, 2008

Mine was doing the same thing; rough idle, dying at stops, etc. When I pulled the EGR off it was full of the white carbon stuff. I am not sure if I did it correctly, but I used my drill to remove as much of the buildup as possible and put it back on. The problem of rougher-than-desired idle isn't gone, but it is a helluva lot better.

89 ranger dies when slowing down

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