Shop heaters - what ya got?

96Indyram said:

Good deal. Looks like you can wrench in warmth soon!!

I just dont like the electric bill using 240V 5000 watt/hr.

I went with the "blueflame" 30,000 BTU style heater for a few reasons.
1: Easy to move to a new location/wall ( 2 screws).
2: I can use a propane bottle, propane tank or hook into a natural gas line. and is pretty cheap cost per galllon to use.
3: Main Reason besides heating my shop....It Works during a power outage as a back up heat source in winter. Ice storms suck!

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If I did my math right, it'll run for 2-1/2 hours on full blast for a dollar. Price per BTU figures very close to kerosene. I do plan on buying a radiant propane heater though, that'll be easily portable and work without electricity. I just sold my 2nd of 2 kerosene salamanders, the profits from the two paid for the electric heater, the install supplies and the propane radiant. I'm happy.

Does your blueflame heater have the ability to run on lp and nat? Or do you buy the one that fits your needs and that's it? I could see a duel fuel heater like that being very useful...

The heater has 2 input connector. One for Lp the other for ng. Some have a single Input but gives you different jet sizes to use depending on what gas you use. Basically it is like a kitchen stove that uses gas...they can hook up to both ng or lp.

RonD said:

Ans what do you do to cool the shop

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Stay inside and work at night lol

Electric heaters are ok as long as there is no power outage...and your hydro is reasonable...but also a source of financial strain...unless you have solar panels to offset the cost.

It's also recommended (by me) to have at least one other source of heat for situations like power outages...financial strain...need extra heat...

I've more than once seen myself set up more than one heat source due to complications like being sick with chills and having to fix something so I could get to work in Monday...or whatever...

My old shop had a Kodiak wood stove. Warmed up garage nice & toasty. Didn't discriminate on the wood though. Cast off pallets, fallen trees, scrap lumber is never in short supply.
Moving on to another shop,I did try a propane tank from home depot & it was costly. It was returned to Home Depot & traded in for the salamander kero heater. It heated up a small 2 car garage to the point that one garage door had to be propped open a foot high.
Right know (barn converted to large bay) I am using a Redstone kero heater, it's okay. Anything to keep my digits from getting numb & slow like molasses-

Well, my shop is 24x24 with a big door and a man door. I tried kerosene; but, the smell and moisture build up, not to mention cost really got to me.

So I insulated the walls and ceiling with rolled bats and found an old used electric 220 volt furnace out of a small house that had converted to gas. The Btu rating was too large for my shop so I disconnected half of the coils, built a simple stand to set it on and duct to direct its output toward the center of the shop. A regular, cheap thermostat on the far side of the shop finished the install.

That was 25 years ago and the best thing I have ever done to that shop. I leave it set to 38 degrees year round so nothing freezes (paint, etc.) and to control cost. It will heat the shop to working temp in about 15 minutes. Someday I may get around to dry walling it!!!

enjr44 said:

Well, my shop is 24x24 with a big door and a man door. I tried kerosene; but, the smell and moisture build up, not to mention cost really got to me.

So I insulated the walls and ceiling with rolled bats and found an old used electric 220 volt furnace out of a small house that had converted to gas. The Btu rating was too large for my shop so I disconnected half of the coils, built a simple stand to set it on and duct to direct its output toward the center of the shop. A regular, cheap thermostat on the far side of the shop finished the install.

That was 25 years ago and the best thing I have ever done to that shop. I leave it set to 38 degrees year round so nothing freezes (paint, etc.) and to control cost. It will heat the shop to working temp in about 15 minutes. Someday I may get around to dry walling it!!!

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sounds like a nice setup. any idea on the specs of the furnace? (wattage and/or btu) and how bad did it hurt the power bill?

Normally 5-kw per coil, 2 coils (heat strips) takes a 60 amp circuit, three takes to a 60 and 30 amp and 4 takes two 60 amp circuits. You will know how to size the wires according to the breakers or fuses in the furnace. Otherwise just download the installation instructions if you can find them using the model number.

Oh, I've already got the electrical specs of the heater I bought, and know exactly what the install will entail. I was just curious how his furnace compares to my heater, since he seems to be pretty happy with how it works.

kunar said:

Oh, I've already got the electrical specs of the heater I bought, and know exactly what the install will entail. I was just curious how his furnace compares to my heater, since he seems to be pretty happy with how it works.

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Yours will probably be more effecient depending on the demand. His is designed for a forced air duct system with a blower wheel it moves alot more CFM and only has one heat setting.

kunar said:

sounds like a nice setup. any idea on the specs of the furnace? (wattage and/or btu) and how bad did it hurt the power bill?

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Well, it was over 25 years ago and so I can't remember exactly what I did; but, there are two 30 amp double breakers in the box. I don't remember exactly how I wired it and don't want to tear into it to find out. I do know that I only have 50 amps running to the shop and with compressor, tools, etc., running nothing ever pops, so it can't be using anything near 60 amps. I do remember, at the time, thinking I should up the main breaker; but, since everything worked why test the wiring.

The cost isn't too bad. If it gets down into the 20s and stays there and I am using the shop a lot, the wife says you can see it in the bill. But, it can't be much or I would hear about it. Here on the west side of the mountains that doesn't happen often.

Since it is a furnace, the blower moves a lot of air and the intake is at the floor so it warms up pretty quick and never stays on for very long. When set to 60 degrees, it comes on every half hour or so, runs for a few minutes and then goes back to sleep. That is with a 25/30 degree temp difference between inside and out side. It is really nice to have the thermostat so it stays wherever it is set.

thanks for the reply, sounds like a pretty solid setup. i'd have been happy with something like that if i could have found it for a reasonable price. hopefully ill be alright with what ive bought.

The watts used is real easy to figure out if you have a amp probe. Amps X Volts equals Watts. The formula for BTUs is Watts X 3.412142 BTU/hr.

kunar said:

thanks for the reply, sounds like a pretty solid setup. i'd have been happy with something like that if i could have found it for a reasonable price. hopefully ill be alright with what ive bought.

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As long as your fingers don't freeze you will be good to go. For me when my hands get really cold I am done. Back when I did it, natural gas was just really getting popular around here and there were a lot of used electric furnaces going to the dump.

LOL....we don't need no stinking shop heater in sunny Florida!!!!! LOL

Hey!!! If you get thirsty, just melt some snow for a quick drink....lol