collecting parts

so I've been searching the forums and have bits and pieces of info... trying to get a shopping list going... I have a 302 block from a 78 Lincoln and a 5 speed from a 97 f150. my project is an 86 with a fi 2.3 and 5 speed, manual steering manual brakes. Being a 78 block I was told the balance is different from the new motors and I wouldn't be able to get a flywheel for the newer trans. No biggie I'm doing a rebuild anyway, but I assume that means I need a new crank too? I like the idea of the 347 stroker but that puts machining way up there so checking my options there. as far as the trans I see options of a M5OD 1 and 2 whats the difference? for those maintaining the hydro clutch what are your suggestions for the master and slave units? what clutch are you using? as far as rear end im looking for an 8.8 expo unit but did I read a ranger fx4 is a direct bolt in? I'm keeping it carbed to be a simple swap and I plan on getting parts together this season then tear into it next winter. Oh... planning on the fox body vert mounts and the tri y headers. I'm sure theres lots of posts about pros and cons to these, have you guys had luck? Thanks for the help!!

Pay attention to the rear crankshaft seal, that changed about when they did changed the balance change. Make sure it will still work with a different year crank if you change cranks. No idea how big of a deal it is when changing crankshafts between the two balances (if they changed how it works on the crankshaft side of it)

Also instead of the super common fox dual sump oil pan that was in use since about '84 until 95 you will need a pan for a '79 Fox Mustang that has the dipstick in it... probably going to have to be new.

Might consider finding a different engine... by the time you buy a crank and an oil pan you might be further ahead. My '87 was a takeout that has ran great (knocking on wood) for 6 years for $200... and it had the dual sump pan.

Explorer front belt setup buys a lot of room if you can snag it, also has to have the later engine balance though (harmonic balancer) Seen a lot of them laying on the ground lately at JY's as people get them out of their way for the Explorer intakes and heads.

I used the Vert/SN-95 mounts and really don't care for them. If my engine comes out it will go back in with V6 mounts and plates. It keeps settling to one side because of engine torque which screws up the header seal to the rest of the exhaust and the oil pan vibrates on the engine crossmember. I cut a washer to fit and have it jammed in the slot to take up the slow for about a year now... I still do not like them.

I have heard Ranger hydraulics for the clutch is supposed to be good to go with the M5OD. I haven't snuck up on a 4x4 M5OD to say I have crossed that bridge yet... but I hope to.

FX4 axle is a bolt in, watch out they did have a recall on bad torsens. A plain Ranger 28 spline 8.8 will get you most of the benefits of a 31 spline 8.8, mainly the much more robust differential. It is pretty uncommon to break axleshafts... depending on what you are building for an engine and your intent with the truck of course. Nice thing about Explorer 8.8's is 95+ axles have factory disk brakes... but they take a little fab work.

Just my $.02 but if you have the earlier 302 it's a 28oz balance just like the 351. Just rebuild it and buy a 28oz 164 tooth flywheel on eBay. The 164 tooth I believe is what the R2 trans uses (make sure 78 302 was still the 28oz and the R2 was a 164 tooth before you buy anything). And if you're thinking 347 most kits are 28oz anyways


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These guys are already on point here.

The M5OD-R1 has the 4.0l bellhousing pattern and the M5OD-R2 has the 302 and i300 inline 6 Bolt pattern. So you must use the R2 for your 302 swap, and since your trans came from a 5.0 f150 it is the R2.

As for the Hydro release bearing, they interchange between the two R1 and R2, I used my 4.0/R1 hydro bearing on my 5.0/R2 swap because it was still brand new and they were the same part number when I pulled them out.

The Ranger clutch master works just fine on the R2, nothing special there.

The transmission does not have any requirements for being either a 28oz/0oz/50oz flywheel, that is dictated by the rotational assembly in the motor. As already mentioned above there no need to change cranks, you just need to use a flywheel that is the proper balance.

So all M5OD-R2 transmissions you need to use a 164tooth flywheel (not the 157tooth mustang model) and get one that is 28oz balance and you are good to go.

McLeod makes them if you want a lighter higher performance flywheel, as do you have some options on summit/jegs, and some flywheels for the 302 are 0oz balance and come with two bolt on counter weights so you can make it a 28oz or a 50oz.

Make sure to use a SHORT NOSE Manual F150 5.0 or later I300 inline six Starter, not a Long nose version. The same starters will work on a 157tooth or a 164tooth flywheels as the transmission block plate just has the holes in a slightly different position to move it out some for the larger 164tooth.

Also make sure you get the F150 Block/starter plate that goes between the block and transmission, as you need it to mount the starter in the outward position. If you don't have or can't find a F150 plate, you can also use a C4 Automatic block plate as it works with the 164tooth and a the M5OD-R2.

Summit makes a Multifit backplate that has two sets of starter bolts holes and a small halfmoon knock out you can use it with a 157tooth, or move it over to use a 164tooth flywheel.

https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=SUM-700600


Or for $32 on ebay you can by the 164tooth C4 style plate:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Bellhousing-Separator-Block-Plate-289-302-351-164-Tooth-Manual-Transmission-/262796124725?hash=item3d2fdea235:g:ZhEAAOSwPcVVsoYI&vxp=mtr

awesome thanks for all the good info guys!!