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Old 12-28-2015, 12:12 PM   #11
Dmgctrl88
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I have a transgo shift kit. I figured the green paint would give it an 80's kind of "extreme" look. The engine will be Ford blue, and I don't really need to paint the truck quite yet.

I have to get the motor built, and right now I'm doing all the research and planning beforehand. It will also be my first motor build.
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:03 PM   #12
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I completely gutted the heads. The valves are in overall good condition. I took them to a wire wheel and cleaned out everything I could within the heads. I lapped the valves and got everything back together with the exception of a valve spring retaining washer, which busted from stress relief as I took them apart.

My buddy has pushrods, gotta get some lifters, rocker arms, and all that jazz, as well as put new bolts and nuts on the rods.

I will be ready for engine assembly after the block is bored and honed. The decks, the mains, and everything else is within spec.

I already have the pistons, and will be boring out to 3.020.
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:58 PM   #13
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I would only punch it out as far as needed to clean it up, you can't bore a SBF a whole lot to start with.

If you have a manual t-case this might help you:

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...linkage&page=3
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Old 05-07-2016, 04:09 PM   #14
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Made quite a bit of progress on the Ranger. I finished the motor and put it and the tranny together along with the transfer case.



Afterwards I did a test fit inside the ranger to get measurements and took it out to make the slots. I ended up putting the motor mounts where they were originally placed on the mustang, instead of swapping them.

Unfortunately I slotted the motor about an inch forward and it's placement makes the drain bolt on the rear sump slightly touch the twin i beam barely.

It also puts the motor up closer so I may have to do a few extra modifications to the core support.



Ultimately this is where it ended up.



After this, I intend to convert my 2.9 wiring harness to accommodate the new 5.0, get the radiator and front end accessories in place, transmission linkage, hoses and lines, and then driveshafts and exhaust in place.

A few points of order. Since the transmission is closer to the front, my existing 4x4 shifter is also moved forward and will be a pain to convert, even with the possibility of finding a C5 shifter. I have to lengthen my rear driveshaft or find another one and shorten it, and I have to shorten my front drive shaft.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 85_Ranger4x4 View Post
I would only punch it out as far as needed to clean it up, you can't bore a SBF a whole lot to start with.

If you have a manual t-case this might help you:

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...linkage&page=3
That is the same problem I'm running into. Do you know how to find one or convert mine? I still have the old A4LD tail housing and it looks like the bolt patterns are the same. I'll check for sure next time I go to the shop.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:50 PM   #16
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So I am at the closing section of my build. I have a few more things to do.

I have to build a bracket for the kick down cable to adapt to the C4.
Modify my shift linkages for the main shifter and transfer case shifter.

Getting my driveshafts built over the weekend.
Get the fuel lines hooked up
Get a power steering return line in
Get my transfer case yoke to the driveline guys.
Radiator Hose
Heater Hose (A buddy mentioned something about needing vacuum for this?)
Get the starter motor and dust cover on
Make or find a dipstick tube for the transmission, along with finding a dipstick.

Then vacuum, exhaust and wiring.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:54 PM   #17
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Fan clutch ends up about 0.5" away from the radiator, which isn't a problem, yet even with a spacer my fan blade still touches, anyone out there make a shorter fan clutch?
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:46 PM   #18
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We got her fired up today for the first time! Good news and bad news.

Bad news is, radiator has a pin hole leak, and during the first few moments of her running, a cross over fuel injection line busted on the fuel rail.

A remanufactured starter I ordered from rockauto.com didn't fit even though I tried to specifiy it to a 1973 F100. Looks like it was an 157 tooth starter.

My buddy had an AOD hi torque starter that fits good, and theres more room for it to fit underneath the engine.

Good news, my first motor has good compression. All we have left is to set the timing on the distributor, wire up the alternator harness, wire up the NSS.

In the future I plan on tweaking the shifter Z bar a little bit to get it to work better and get my transfer case shifter situated.

1970's exhaust manifold on the passenger side with pipe works great. Drivers side we had to custom weld a piece to get it to work with a late 80's crown vic/ mercury marquis manifold with the O2 bung, but nevertheless works.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:20 AM   #19
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I'll start a what works post to give some folks an idea of what we got working, this is subject to change as I'm just finishing my swap.

1986 2.9 XL 4x4 3" body lift 31"x15" Tires

4.10 Rear end ratio.

2003 Ford Explorer telescoping drive shaft. Did not have to shorten at a yoke to flange length of 47.5" on the dot. Front drive shaft had to be shortened. Driveshaft is a little on the tight side with about .5" of play tightened. This will give me more room to flex on extending the driveshaft in rough terrain.

Had to get a flange yoke put on the rear end that fit a 1330 U joint and match the smaller bolt pattern. Guy at the driveshaft shop gave me this piece.

We had to order an obsolete Spicer part:
End Yoke -Splined Bore 1330 series,Strap Style, 1.146x26 spline, 2-4-7631-1

We had to use a lathe and mill down the part to match the old part profile at the seal lips inside of the transfer case.

I retained the Borg Warner 1350 transfer case, mechanically shifted.

Ordered a C5 tail housing and output shaft from Transmission Parts and Cores out in California. Somewhat hard to deal with but they had the parts I was looking for and they got them here after a second attempt.

Used a 1973 F100 C4 transmission. I rebuilt it using a transgo shift kit. Had to order an aftermarket dipstick tube to accomodate the pan fill portion. Uses the big H servos for heavy duty use. Used a re-manufactured torque converter, the bigger size diameter that was offered (Maybe 14" maybe 11"?) 164 tooth bell housing.

1987 Mustang block, specs checked out to be stock, but needed a bore and hone. Bored over .020", E7TE Heads, did a valve job on them and cleaned them up good. On retrospec I might have been better off getting a full motor. I had to order pushrods, rocker arms, and had to get the sheet metal channels that hold them in place, much of this cost could have been avoided, but I have new parts at least.

I used a block spacer between the C4 and the engine. Had to special order this, although I could have found one in the Junk Yard in hindsight. I learned quite a bit that you can get most of what you need at a junk yard.

I put the engine, transmission and transfer case together outside of the truck. I dropped it in using a worm gear device on the engine hoist with the front of the truck sitting on wooden blocks with the tires removed. This allowed me to drop the entire drive train unit in. Gradually adjusting and lowering until I got it into place and make my marks. I had to turn the entire thing diagonally in the engine bay to get it to fit when I lowered it.

I used Mustang Convertible mounts located in the conventional passenger and drivers side, swapping them around staggered them quite a bit. Drilling a series of holes on either side of the cross member and used an angle grinder to finish the slots.

I used my original transmission cross member and used a new transmission mount from rockauto (last one was messed up from holding the transfer case by itself for about a year) The angles in the original cross member allow the front drive shaft to reach the front end and the transfer case. I spaced them with washers temporarily and bolted it to the bottom of the frame drilling new holes. This moved my transfer case up about 5.5".

The engine wasn't put back as far as it could have, with about an inch from the head to the firewall. This made it closer to the front of the truck to where I had to take out my radiator core support and make a bracket to fit a 4.0 radiator in. I pushed the radiator up as far as possible, touching the grill bracket. I had to grind out a slot for the radiator cap, but other than that a 4.0 radiator fits perfectly in the core support between the remaining walls, which gives it much support.

I got clothes hanger and welding rod and formed it in the shape I needed to trace the radiator hose routes. Took the form to the auto parts store and found the hose fitting sizes I needed.

I used 89' Grand Marqui/ Crown Vic water pump, foxbody water pump does not fit with the crown vic brackets. Uses just a 26" serpentine belt to go to the alternator, power steering pump (original) and crank.

Using a mechanical fan, may upgrade to a flex fan or electric fan in the future. Fan clutch fans with reverse flow water pump wont work with the conventional going crown vic water pump. Fan clutch ended up about .5" away from radiator, although I discovered that Four Seasons carrys a shorter one if need be. Even with a reverse fit spacer, the fan blades were too close to the radiator.

Transfer case was aimed pretty good at the rear end all things considering.



I ran the remote oil kit down to the front and had hydraulic hose made with swivels and placed the oil filter with the bottom facing out at the very front of the frame rail top in between the power steering and the front support under where the charcoal cannister purge used to be, in front of the tire for easy access. It remains well out of the way of the drivers side tire.

Used a K&N small air filter and matched it to a buddy's intake hose, and fits good according to the picture above, Had to modify the evaporator box a little bit more in addition to what I needed to do to fit the valve cover underneath. The throttle body goes straight into it otherwise. I took a throttle cable from a mustang and routed it in lieu of my ranger one, as it was too long. It fits well.

70's style straight exhaust manifold and C4 pipe works well on the passenger side with about an inch of clearance from everything.

The after swap stage is of course next. Making it a much better driving machine.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:49 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Dmgctrl88 View Post
That is the same problem I'm running into. Do you know how to find one or convert mine? I still have the old A4LD tail housing and it looks like the bolt patterns are the same. I'll check for sure next time I go to the shop.
Sorry it has been a hectic spring and I haven't been on here much.

The patterns are the same but everything else is different.

I found the parts for mine in a junkyard.

Congrats on getting the beast running!
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