aaronhahn777
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Flint MI Area
- Vehicle Year
- 2005
- Make / Model
- ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0 supercharged
- Transmission
- Automatic
My ranger's door locks have been getting worse and worse over time. I had to sometimes jiggle the key in the lock for 2-3 minutes before I was able to successfully unlock my vehicle. Then, they stopped working all together. This is a tutorial on how to get your locks back to new condition
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-flat head screwdriver
-torx screwdriver
-phillips screwdriver
PRODUCTS/MATERIALS REQUIRED
-ultra-fine graphite lubricant
-CLR (that Calcium Lime Rust cleaner from Canadian Tire/Lowe's/etc)
-Alcohol (Isopropyl)
Repair Attempts:
(1) Lubrication
First I assumed that it was because the lock needed lubrication. As suggested on this site and other sources, I used a ultra-fine graphite lubricant powder. Didn't Work.
(2) New Key
Since lubrication didn't work, I assumed it was my worn out key (other suggestions on this site). I went to ford and got a new key cut using my VIN#. They charge about $10-15 for the code lookup and then they will charge you for a new key/fob/etc. This didn't work.
Solution:
After exhausting many attempts, this is what I did and I am a very happy camper!
(1) Remove the door lock cylinders. (remove 3 screws in plastic door panel, pop/swing window crank & remove torx screw, pull the panel assembly upwards & off, peel back vapour barrier, pull lock retaining clip from the outside of the metal door body, pop the plastic clip off the lock lever, pull door cylinder).
(2) Before removing the cam on off the cylinder, take note of how the cylinder is situated. Notice the drain hole is at the bottom and the cam always faces the door mechanism (faces to the rear of the vehicle). Take a marker and mark a P or D (for passenger/driver side) on the plastic part so you know which is which. Although they are identical, this will enable you to switch the cylinders during re-installation (the passenger side will be much less worn due to the excessive use on the driver side).
(3) Pop off retaining the cam retaining clip. Safely store the loose pieces where you will not loose them.
(4) Take a glass jar and pour ~2 inches of CLR (Calcium Lime Rust cleaner). Drop the cylinders in there for about an hour. You will notice lots of bubbles. This is normal. CLR will dissolve only the calcium lime and rust. So the more bubbles, the better (it will not dissolve your door lock).
note: When using the CLR, I found that wedging a wooden BBQ skewer into the lock opening worked well. The allowed me to keep dipping the lock into the liquid while holding the flip flap open.
Warning: The vapours from the bubble are not good for you to breath. Use common sense and keep your nose away. Also, you may want to use gloves. CLR can be sensitive to the skin and eyes.
(5) Once the cylinders are pretty clean. Start cycling your lock with the key. I found it difficult at first, but then I started working like butter!
(6) Remove the cylinder and dry it off as best as you can with a paper towel.
(7) Dump the jar of CLR down the sink (this is okay for septic systems as well). Now refill the jar with about 2 inches of alcohol. Drop the cylinders into the alcohol and mix around for a few minutes. This ensures that the CLR is getting flushed out of the lock and hopefully only a clean lock will remain.
(8) Use tin foil or an old cooking pan. Place your alcohol-wetted lock into the oven and bake for ~10 minutes. Alcohol evaporates quickly so this will ensure that the lock is absolutely dry and clean.
(9) Remove/cool your locks. Now take the graphite lubricant and dump it into your lock. Cycle the key again several times. You may want to dump some lubricant into the bottom drain hole as well. Shake out excess lube once it is sufficiently lubricated.
(10) Now re-install the door locks (probably want a new rubber gasket... I used a rubber o-ring). I recommend switching the driver side with the passenger’s side. The passenger side is probably in much better shape.
(11) Enjoy your new Locks
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-flat head screwdriver
-torx screwdriver
-phillips screwdriver
PRODUCTS/MATERIALS REQUIRED
-ultra-fine graphite lubricant
-CLR (that Calcium Lime Rust cleaner from Canadian Tire/Lowe's/etc)
-Alcohol (Isopropyl)
Repair Attempts:
(1) Lubrication
First I assumed that it was because the lock needed lubrication. As suggested on this site and other sources, I used a ultra-fine graphite lubricant powder. Didn't Work.
(2) New Key
Since lubrication didn't work, I assumed it was my worn out key (other suggestions on this site). I went to ford and got a new key cut using my VIN#. They charge about $10-15 for the code lookup and then they will charge you for a new key/fob/etc. This didn't work.
Solution:
After exhausting many attempts, this is what I did and I am a very happy camper!
(1) Remove the door lock cylinders. (remove 3 screws in plastic door panel, pop/swing window crank & remove torx screw, pull the panel assembly upwards & off, peel back vapour barrier, pull lock retaining clip from the outside of the metal door body, pop the plastic clip off the lock lever, pull door cylinder).
(2) Before removing the cam on off the cylinder, take note of how the cylinder is situated. Notice the drain hole is at the bottom and the cam always faces the door mechanism (faces to the rear of the vehicle). Take a marker and mark a P or D (for passenger/driver side) on the plastic part so you know which is which. Although they are identical, this will enable you to switch the cylinders during re-installation (the passenger side will be much less worn due to the excessive use on the driver side).
(3) Pop off retaining the cam retaining clip. Safely store the loose pieces where you will not loose them.
(4) Take a glass jar and pour ~2 inches of CLR (Calcium Lime Rust cleaner). Drop the cylinders in there for about an hour. You will notice lots of bubbles. This is normal. CLR will dissolve only the calcium lime and rust. So the more bubbles, the better (it will not dissolve your door lock).
note: When using the CLR, I found that wedging a wooden BBQ skewer into the lock opening worked well. The allowed me to keep dipping the lock into the liquid while holding the flip flap open.
Warning: The vapours from the bubble are not good for you to breath. Use common sense and keep your nose away. Also, you may want to use gloves. CLR can be sensitive to the skin and eyes.
(5) Once the cylinders are pretty clean. Start cycling your lock with the key. I found it difficult at first, but then I started working like butter!
(6) Remove the cylinder and dry it off as best as you can with a paper towel.
(7) Dump the jar of CLR down the sink (this is okay for septic systems as well). Now refill the jar with about 2 inches of alcohol. Drop the cylinders into the alcohol and mix around for a few minutes. This ensures that the CLR is getting flushed out of the lock and hopefully only a clean lock will remain.
(8) Use tin foil or an old cooking pan. Place your alcohol-wetted lock into the oven and bake for ~10 minutes. Alcohol evaporates quickly so this will ensure that the lock is absolutely dry and clean.
(9) Remove/cool your locks. Now take the graphite lubricant and dump it into your lock. Cycle the key again several times. You may want to dump some lubricant into the bottom drain hole as well. Shake out excess lube once it is sufficiently lubricated.
(10) Now re-install the door locks (probably want a new rubber gasket... I used a rubber o-ring). I recommend switching the driver side with the passenger’s side. The passenger side is probably in much better shape.
(11) Enjoy your new Locks
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