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fill plug on 96 mazda b4000 transfer case?


learningcircles

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Hey guys, I have a thread going elsewhere, but I really need this answered fast. Can anyone help me out and tell me where the fill plug is on this transfer case? It looks like the auto-lock for the hubs could be blocking it. here is a picture:



Here is the tag on it for further info, it looks to be a warner 1354:

 


shane96ranger

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I found a pic of one on the web. It's got the red on it.

 

shane96ranger

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From what I can see of your pic, I think the one in your pic is the fill plug.
 

learningcircles

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The drain plug was hidden under a heavy, black round thing connected by 4 bolts. There were no sensors or cables going into it, so I have no idea what it does. I put it back on after I flushed the system and 4x4 seems to be working fine. Any idea what it was?

PS, I put Dexron/Mercon III in the transfer case and transmission (that what advance auto parts had in the system for it). Is that good for it? I'm going to be flushing it again soon, so I can change it to something else if that's not right. Also, how much fluid does the transmission take to fill again? I didn't keep track the first time

Also, does a manual 5 speed have a torque convertor or does the clutch interface directly with the fly wheel? Should I be worried about water being trapped in that?
 
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Ranger Sport Honduras

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mercon atf is what it needs u got it good there.
i cant remember how much it need to refill, but u should fill it until it comes bac from the filling plug.
like 3 quarts i guess.

and yes the clutch interfaces directly to the flywheel

water where?
 

learningcircles

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Water got into EVERYTHING, so I was just wondering if it all would come out after I drained the slushbox, or if some was stuck anywhere, like in the torque convertor.

is Mercon=Mercon/Dexron III? Or Mercon V? It's a 96 model

mercon atf is what it needs u got it good there.
i cant remember how much it need to refill, but u should fill it until it comes bac from the filling plug.
like 3 quarts i guess.

and yes the clutch interfaces directly to the flywheel

water where?
 

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i used mercon on mine, but i think a member went with mercon V.
as long its mercon atf ull be good.

i doubt water is still in there
 

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There is no "auto lock for the hubs". That is a shift motor to engage your transfer case. The hubs lock themselves with the forward rotating motion of the front axle shafts.

There is no torque converter on a manual transmission. You don't want one, they suck big salty monkey balls. And no, you should not worry about water getting trapped in the bell housing. It's hard for water to get in there what with gravity and all, but the housing isn't water tight, so any that does get in will just evaporate or run back out.

If you have water in the trans and t-case, drain and fill them both two or three times, as well as both differentials.
 
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learningcircles

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There is no "auto lock for the hubs". That is a shift motor to engage your transfer case. The hubs lock themselves with the forward rotating motion of the front axle shafts.

There is no torque converter on a manual transmission. You don't want one, they suck big salty monkey balls. And no, you should not worry about water getting trapped in the bell housing. It's hard for water to get in there what with gravity and all, but the housing isn't water tight, so any that does get in will just evaporate or run back out.

If you have water in the trans and t-case, drain and fill them both two or three times, as well as both differentials.
I already flushed both differentials, but I'll probably do it again in a few hundred miles. The gear oil looked like cappuccino when it came out--probably both old AND full of water. The rear diff is a PITA, having to take the cover off and RTV it back on. The front is even worse, there is no drain plug! I got a vacuum gun and sucked everything out of it then filled it back up with gear oil. The rear only has a fill plug too, and I couldn't get the tube into the rear differential with the vacuum gun to suck the old stuff out, or else that would have made it easier too. I took the cover off, let it drain for an hour, replaced it with black RTV after I scraped the old stuff off, then I put in new gear oil with some additives with the gun again.

Any pro tips on those differentials that I don't know? I called Jiffy lube and they wanted $90 per diff to change the fluid. I told them :flipoff: But I'm not looking forward to doing it all again
 
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learningcircles

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I tried driving it to the tire store today, and over 35mph it makes a very loud, worrying "whirrrr" noise that sounds like something isn't getting enough oil. I dropped the rear diff again today, and water came out again--go figure. I didn't get a chance to drive it around again, but I talked to a knowledgeable friend, and he said I should try to jack up each side of the axle when I fill the rear diff, to make sure the oil is soaking down into them.

Have you folks ever heard of that before?

Anyways, I haven't driven it since I did all this, but my hopes aren't very high. Any other ideas out there what it could be?

I filled my dana in the front with the same gear oil up to the fill hole. I'm sure it needs another flush, but that wouldn't be causing all that noise going down the road in 2WD, would it?
 

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