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Killed my ranger last night (Modified V-8/Supercharged) Any input?


dasfinc

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I suspect/hope/Pray its a coil after triple checking all my relays/fuses/wiring/etc.

Ignition coil failures are not super uncommon on fords I know, and I kinda suspect that may be what I experienced the other day...

My truck has a No-Start condition at the moment after Friday night (from my build thread):

"Cruised around on new tune for 15 min, no problems. Pulled from 20mph onto 355, had a pop from the exhaust on the shift to 3rd, pulled to 100 in 3rd, no problems. Did it from a standstill and it popped twice on the 2/3 shift and broke up. I let off, idle was loping doing 40mph, no smoke or fluid dumped. Pulled over immediately and stalled out.

Truck turns over smooth, but doesnt start. So I fear I chunked something internally or it's something easy like a dead ECU or pump... (I've killed one ECU already...)"

The truck has shifted with a bit of a 'pop' randomly in the past, and my truck has been especially bad at reliably shifting at the correct points (sometimes would shift at 5500, sometimes 5200, sometimes 5800).

I checked the ECU and all my fuses/relays and everything checks out. My pump primes and is running etc, I can smell a whiff of fuel after cranking it for a while so it seems like its getting fuel but not starting.

I have NOT pulled a sparkplug out and tried cranking it to see if there is a spark, but I have pulled off my coils and tested them both.

Primary resistance on both is 1.0, secondary is 13.6-13.7K

I see a brand new OEM coil is supposed to be .3-.9 on the primary, 11.5-17.5K on the secondary.

I've replaced coils in the past that passed spec before as well, but I'd rather not spend $120-130 in MSD coils unless I'm fairly confident the ones I have are dead, or need to be upgraded anyways....

is being 1.0 too 'high', or high enough to cause a no-start on the primary side? I'd read that a bad/failing coil could have caused my weird shifting habits as well.

The coils probably have nearly 200K miles on them to boot honestly....
 


adsm08

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Do the spark test, if it fails, do a spark circuit test. Basically put a test light where the coil should be. If it flashes, get a coil, if it doesn't, get a computer.
 

hoosier1104

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If you decide to part out for some odd reason, I call dibs on your s/c. jk. Hopefully everything checks out for you.
 

dasfinc

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If you decide to part out for some odd reason, I call dibs on your s/c. jk. Hopefully everything checks out for you.
If you really want to call Dibs, PM me an offer... Its not exactly a cheap or common item :yahoo:.
 

hoosier1104

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dasfinc

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Coils look to be bad after a few tests... Ordered MSD Performance coil packs, Fingers crossed guys!
 

bobbywalter

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rotor turning smooth?


pull the dizzy?
 

dasfinc

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dasfinc

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New coils, still no spark, anyone familiar with any other common no-spark conditions for V-8 explorers? I swapped the ECM's with a known good one and there was no difference, and I checked the Fuses and Relays (I'll have to check them again I suppose)

I also now have a puddle of transmission fluid under my truck out of the blue..... but I REALLY think that's completely unrelated unless some how my neutral saftey switch is fried?

If that gets fried what does the ECU Disable (I thought it was fuel not spark) and where is it located on the transmission? (4R70W)

I almost think a wire somewhere has melted/shorted in the harness? I have a new harness to switch to anyways, Guess I might as well now....
 
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Cadger

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check your crank sensor, no signal=no spark.
 

dasfinc

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Ima go buy a scanner tonight finally... might as well.
 

AgPete139

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Hm. Got me. Keep us updated...
 

bobbywalter

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Whats a rotor :icon_rofl:

I'm one of only a handful of people running a OBD2 setup :icon_thumby:
one of the few on this board?



same thing. is the cps working ?? valves moving cam spinning?


chains break, gear bolts shear etc....
 

bilzy7

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But nuts don't bust.
 

shane96ranger

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Check your cam synchronizer. Just wondering... the cam you put in it - is it a roller cam? I don't recall what the gear on the cam synchronizer. Hopefully steel.
 

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