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Transmission Gremlin Halts Restoration Build


ThatBostonGuy

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Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
What's up guys.

I've hit a snag in my restoration of my 1998 3.0l 4x4 build. The entire truck has been torn down to the frame and every bolt, nut and part has either been replaced to restored including the motor and transmission.

My issue is with the transmission. This weekend was the first time the truck has been run fully up to temperature so I can do my final fluid checks and other tests. The transmission will not shift into any drive gear including reverse. It will shift into park and neutral.

The fluid pump is working as I have good pressure running through the cooling lines. The 2 main electrical connectors to the transmission have been checked for broken pins, etc. The connectors on the transmission itself have been checked as well. I have checked my fuses and confirmed my relays are also working. I have no check engine light on the dash.

The truck will only start in park and in neutral. The shift lever and linkage are functioning properly. Idle is perfect and the fluid level is perfect. It took a little over 10 quarts of fluid. If i shift the truck into neutral and push the truck it will roll. It will not roll in park so the transmission is shifting mechanically. It seems that something is not telling the solenoids to shift which makes me think its an electrical issue. My buddy who built the transmission is a 20 year ford transmission tech and i trust his builds 100%. He wont be able to take a look at it for me for a couple of weeks so I'm trying to get some new ideas on what to test.

Thanks in advance for any input.
 


RonD

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The solenoids control shift points but have nothing to do with transmission going "into Gear"
Especially Reverse, no shift points or solenoids involved

It reads like Front pump was damaged on install or was already damaged
You will still get some fluid flow but no pressure and all automatics run on pressure, Reverse requires 175psi to engage, 1st about 125psi
There are test points for pressure gauges on the side of the trans, but from description of "no gears" I would pull out the transmission, there would be no "in the truck fix"


On my first automatic trans install I broke the front pump on install so costly lesson
Torque converter must be installed on to transmission's input shaft then turned while pushing it in, it will slide in and click 2 or 3 times as it locks into front pump and inputs shaft.
Failure to do this will result in what you have described.
And when trans is mated to engine it should mate flat and with all bolts installed and tight, you can then pull torque converter forward and bolt it to flexplate.
Any resistance on mating trans to engine will be from misaligned torque converter, and "bolting it together" by force will damage front pump
 
Last edited:

ThatBostonGuy

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Location
Massachusetts
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
I ended up doing a pressure test on the transmission to see if it was a pressure problem before I went and dropped the transmission. 210psi. Definitely not the pump. I drop the pan and found that the level on the parking pawl was broken off.

That would explain my no gears issue. Now the big question is did it break because of a defect in the metal or is piston the valve body jammed.


 

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