1994 2.3 ignition help

ndralle · Jul 1, 2016

Hi guys I'm new to the forum. I have a 2.3 from a 94 Ranger. It's Fuel injected. It's installed in a sandrail. I have the engine harness, ECM, and fuse block from the truck. Can someone tell me what to power up at the fuel block to get it to run? I didn't see a wiring diagram in the tech section for a 94. Any help is appreciated.

RonD · Jul 1, 2016

Welcome to TRS

Wiring doesn't change much on Rangers

I assume you mean "power up at the "fuse" block"?

Google: autozone 1994 ranger wiring

Autozone has some good info pages

ndralle · Jul 2, 2016

Thanks Ron, Those are pretty decent diagrams.
Hopefully I can figure this out today.

ndralle · Jul 4, 2016

OK, Looks like if I supply power to EEC relay then it should run. Basically supplying power to pins 37 and 57. The diagram is from a 93 Ranger but not sure if they changed much or at all between those years. I'd try it today but the rail isn't at my house. HA

ndralle · Jul 18, 2016

Removing Wires

So I'm trying to remove the extra wires that I don't need from the wiring harness. I only found 4 connectors that go to the engine. The rest must be lights etc. There is a large round connector that goes to the fire wall of the Ranger. Does anyone know what I can remove and what I need to leave? My worry is that if I eliminate a circuit such as Vehicle Speed sensor from the ECM on pins 3 and 8 then something else won't work by default because the computer is looking for this input. Thanks for the help.

RonD · Jul 18, 2016

VSS was only used for cruise control and A4LD automatic trans 3-4 shift, so not needed.
If EEC was from an automatic it would turn on CEL because of no VSS signal but it would also turn on CEL because of no A4LD being hooked up

here is another pic of EEC wiring for 1994 and earlier, basic: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

There are some body and light wiring diagrams here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/index.htm

ndralle · Jul 18, 2016

Thanks, These help more. The engine is going into a sand rail so all I need is the wires that make it run. Should I just cut the wires off that aren't needed such as terminals 1 to 6 on the EEC or is there a better way?

Also do I need dummy connectors for anything such as EGR or anything else?

ndralle · Jul 18, 2016

Here are some pics of what I'm looking at.

I want to remove the big round connector that would go to the firewall. Seems to be a lot of wiring I don't need.

The two square plugs are the main connectors to the engine which is most of the wiring.

Also I will use the MASS air flow sensor plug.

RonD · Jul 18, 2016

EEC(computer) should be in the engine bay on a '94, so I wouldn't think you would need any wires on the round connector.

There will be 1 Temp Sender wire and 1 Oil pressure sender wire in there but you can just run new wires from those senders to your dash, maybe a tach wire.

Not sure how you are wiring fuel pump, but you just need the one EEC relay which will power EEC, MAF sensor, fuel injectors, spark module and fuel pump relay(if needed)
I recommend existing fuel pump relay circuit, computer controls it and will cut fuel pump power if engine RPMs drop below 400.
Inertia switch in a dune buggy may be problematic.

So toggle switch or key on closes EEC relay and powers the system, 30amp fuse

The alternator does need 12volts with key on, thats the Battery Light circuit, it will be in that round connector, light green wire, you can either add a Battery Light to dash or just run a "key on" 12v directly to alternator.
An alternator does generate its own voltage, BUT(big but) it can not start to generate voltage unless it HAS voltage to start with, that's what the Battery light circuit does, when alternator starts to generate voltage then battery light bulb has 12volts(14v) on both terminals so goes off.
And it has to be "key on" voltage, if left powered all the time battery will be drained.

ndralle · Jul 18, 2016

OK, so I'll trace the wires from the round connector tonight and try to remove them without removing an other wires.
I'll be using an inline fuel pump but yes I was planning on running it through the fuel pump relay so it's computer controlled.
I don't have the inertia switch so if I just wire from the relay to the pump directly it should work.

I understand how the alternator works. It has wiring on it now so I'll see how that is connected to battery power and wire it up.

Thanks again for the advice. I'll try to keep you updated on my progress.

ndralle · Jul 22, 2016

So I've marked up the wiring diagram. If I power the wires per the diagram I think it should run. The Black and white wire is ground but I don't see a place to ground it. All the black and white wires to to connectors. Does the computer control these circuits by grounding them? Or do I need to add a ground back to the battery? Let me know if I missed anything.

Red- Constant 12V
Yellow - keyed 12V
Red/Lt Grn Keyed 12V.
BLK/White - Ground
BLK/Yellow - Constant 12V

ndralle · Aug 1, 2016

It starts

Just wanted to say thanks. I plugged in the harness last night and I have spark. Put some cleaner in the Throttle body and it starts. I still don't have a fuel pump but it has spark. Thanks again everyone.

1994 2.3 ignition help

New Member

Official TRS AI

New Member

New Member

Attachments

New Member

Official TRS AI

New Member

New Member

Attachments

Official TRS AI

New Member

New Member

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals