Slave cylinder won't bleed

I have a 96 ranger 2.3l 2wd. I swapped out the flywheel, clutch, read main seal, master and slave cylinder. When I started the truck at first it wouldn't go into gear and the clutch was really soft so I bled it out a decent amount. Now the clutch is soft about half way and then stiff as it should be the rest of the way to the floor. But I noticed that once I keep bleeding it only a drop of fluid is coming out or the bleeder and the clutch is staying the same but it will go in gear now . Do I need to keep bleeding it? My bleeding steps are pump the clutch approximately 7/10 times then hold the clutch to the floor open the bleeder close it then release the clutch and repeat the steps. Am I doing something wrong?

Try this you must time with the person pumping the clutch pedal as he pushes down you open the bleeder but before he lets up on the pedal you have to close it and then let the pedal slam back up quickly pulling the fluid downward from the resivour I have a ranger that had a bad clutch master cylinder and would lose my clutch randomly all the time would have to call a friend for help that was the only way I ever got one to work some one else may have a better method but that's mine oh and don't let the resivour run empty or you have to start over again. Also once you get good resistance to the top of the pedal stop because it's finicky and you can screw yourself and have to keep trying more and more (been there) best of luck to ya and happy rangering

Also did you bench bleed your master cylinder cause that does have something to do with it as well

Yes I did took me about /0 minutes before no bubbles came out. I did a little research would it help to have the reservoir cap on to build pressure?

When I did it I left the cap off but you can give it a shot with it on there

I've used the syringe from the cooking dept of local box store.Suck brake fluid in it put a piece of vacuum hose over the tip push all the air out to the end of the vacuum hose.Put the vacuum hose over the bleeder nipple.Do not have your cap on the master cylinder crack the bleeder and push the fluid in.The problem of coarse is when your trying to pump the fluid out the bottom the air is rising to the top.

This is how I do it, I have done it many ways but this one has been the "easy" way:

Prefill the slave cylinder through the bleeder hole or through the hose hole, the latter requires you to push the valve open with a screwdriver while filling it.

Remove master cylinder and hose assembly from vehicle, and attach them to a long board so that the hose is as straight as possible, the reservoir is at the top, and the master cylinder itself is inverted from it's normal position in the vehicle

Bench bleed the master cylinder. They ALWAYS have air trapped somewhere, in my experience. This is accomplished by working the pushrod and occasionally tapping the hose lightly with a screwdriver, starting at the bottom and working your way up. This removes any air bubbles that are stuck to the inside of the assembly. The pushrod should have almost zero movement when you're done and any air bubbles will come out through the reservoir.

Crack the slave cylinder bleeder open a bit.

Reinstall the master cylinder assembly and attach the hydraulic line to the slave, being careful to close the bleeder as soon as the line snaps into place.

The purpose for opening the bleeder there is to release pressure from when you are attaching the hydraulic line...it is very difficult when it's closed

Next attach a clear hose to the bleeder and into a drain container, and fill your reservoir. Open the bleeder and you should get a fairly steady stream of fluid, watch the reservoir and run 3-4 reservoirs of fluid through it. Do not let it empty completely or you're starting all over.

Once you see nice clear fluid flowing into your drain container, your clutch should be bled.

I'll look through my manual and give you that method as well