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Needing Help With A Weird Problem


blkvyyper

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1992 Ford Ranger - Needing Help With A Weird Problem

Hello Forum,
I'm new here and a noob at mechanics so i'm seeking the advice from the experts here on a problem i'm having. I have a 1992 for ranger xlt with a 3.0l v6 engine. It has close to 285k miles on her and just now started acting up. It has routine oil changes and tuneups. About 3 months ago it would be driving fine and all of a sudden just cut off going down the road. No warning lights no nothing. It was as if you just turned the ignition switch off. Especially if was raining. It would start back up and run fine after sitting for a few minutes. Finally about a month ago it finally died and wouldn't start. So i replaced the fuel pump (twice) and it still hard to start. Once it starts after priming it 5 or 6 time it will crank but will not stay started at idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The fuel rail gets gas but low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulator was change, fuel filter changed, no fuel coming through the vacuum line either, but changed anyway. I also heard what sounded like air coming from the fuel rail, but found no leaks anywhere. So i did the basic trouble shootings and not being a mechanic and not knowing anything about ignition systems, i really dont know what i'm looking for or what is correct or what it should or should not be doing. So the other day I did a spark test: pulled a spark plug, put it back in the boot and put it near a good ground. What is funny and odd is when i turned the switch to the ON position, the spark plug fired off. I didn't crank it, just turned the switch to ON. What would cause this? The next think i noticed is that the relays would cycle very rapidly in the ON position. You can play with the ignition switch (wiggle it) and it sometimes you can get it to do it, and other times it won't.

One more thing. the fuel gauge goes to full when you start the engine, then fall to empty and stays there. Even after the installation of two new fuel pumps and sending units. They were tested before installation and the fuel gauge still doesn't work correctly. The electrical lines were tested with a DVOM and found to have continuity and voltage to the fuel pump. The fuel pumps sending unit was tested and found to be good? All other gauges associated with the instrument cluster work. Grounds were checked and all good. Any idea what this could be?

Any idea on what is causing these problems?

Thanks in advance and sorry it's alot of reading but trying to be thorough in the symptoms.

BV
 
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WarHawk-AVG

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Any codes?

SAMSUNG say whaaaaaat?
 

blkvyyper

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Any codes?

SAMSUNG say whaaaaaat?

yeah , sorry about that, codes were 11, 12,13 14, 15

11 - system pass
12 - cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
13 - cannot control rpm during Self-Test low rpm check
14 - PIP circuit failure
15 - EEC processor (ROM) test failed


This was done during a KOEO test
 
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black_demon69

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yeah , sorry about that, codes were 11, 12,13 14, 15

11 - system pass
12 - cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
13 - cannot control rpm during Self-Test low rpm check
14 - PIP circuit failure
15 - EEC processor (ROM) test failed


This was done during a KOEO test

look here for your codes http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/

might also check ign. coil and ign.control module (if i remember it is located on distributor) also check cap and rotor for carbon tracking

haven't dealt with a 3.0l this old in a long time so take me suggestions with a grain of salt (memory is not what it used to be)
 

blkvyyper

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look here for your codes http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/

might also check ign. coil and ign.control module (if i remember it is located on distributor) also check cap and rotor for carbon tracking

haven't dealt with a 3.0l this old in a long time so take me suggestions with a grain of salt (memory is not what it used to be)
black_demon69, u don't have to tell me about memory brutha, no fun when it's getting hard to remember the simple stuff...LOL

Thanks for the reply and i'll try what you recommended, although the ICM isn't at the distributor on this model, it's at the front of engine compartment next to the radiator. Would this account for the spark plugs firing with the key in the on position?
 
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