Engine Trouble

cp2295 · Dec 14, 2015

Definitely get the heads pressure tested. When these heads overheat you are gonna crack them 9/10 times. If that happens get some aftermarket heads, much stronger and only about 400$ for a pair complete with new valves and everything

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 14, 2015

It's gotten really close to overheating, like near the red zone, never in the red zone

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 16, 2015

So, I started pulling apart the motor last night, took about 3 hours and I got it pulled down to the heads. I've taken the passenger side off already, gonna take the driver off tonight. Here's the start of the project

Here's the ending of last night

Then here's the gasket that came out

All in all, it was pretty simple. Nothing troubled me, it went smoothly. The gasket not having any signs of flaws worries me though, but I'm going to have my heads checked. Also going to straight edge with feeler gauge the block.

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RonD · Dec 16, 2015

Pinch your fingers on the metal rings on the head gasket, and feel around the whole ring, they should be exactly equal all the way around, you can usually feel a depression where they "blewout".

I use a shop light behind a metal straight edge to see if there are any depressions in the block surface, i.e. you see the light under the straight edge, then use feeler gauge to see if it is within parameters.

RonneyJAyala · Dec 16, 2015

Good thinking on that, I need to get them from work. But I didn't ask today. Either way, I'm getting my heads sent out to be checked and surfaced for $158(both heads) so that'll happen soon.

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 16, 2015

So I pulled the other head today, and just for shits and giggles I stuck a magnet to it. Found out I have cast heads? I thought these motors has the aluminum heads

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Twister · Dec 16, 2015

RonneyJAyala said:
So I pulled the other head today, and just for shits and giggles I stuck a magnet to it. Found out I have cast heads? I thought these motors has the aluminum heads

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4.0 ohv never had aluminum heads.

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 16, 2015

Oh, I thought they did

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 21, 2015

So, sent my heads off to a machine shop. Right now as they sit, they are not cracked/warped. The problem they have is sunken in exhaust valves. The machine shop says they can fix it for $480, but is that worth it? Or should I go get the new stronger heads?

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cp2295 · Dec 23, 2015

You can get both heads aftermarket with stronger castings new valves seals springs seats everything with a new deck for $400 shipped off eBay. J&c enterprises good stuff I got a pair on my ranger they work greatz

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 23, 2015

I just got mine rebuilt, as they were already the stronger ones. I hope this solves all my issues, haha. I've exhausted my funds into this truck and this is a smack in the face. I really should turn it into a weekend warrior and go buy a daily driver.

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cp2295 · Dec 28, 2015

She will run like a top after this.. Or at least should! Heads were def bad on it so should take care of your issues

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 28, 2015

Hoping this fixes the issues. And you're right, she'll run like a damn champ after this, don't know how much power I was loosing due to them being like that. But they'll be nice and shiny like new heads now!

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RonneyJAyala · Dec 31, 2015

Got the heads put on, started it up, got lots of smoke that eventually cleared away. But now, I've got 2 issues, truck isn't getting warm, and if I romp on it in first or second it sputters and stutters all the way up until I shift, if I don't romp on it, it's fine

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RonD · Dec 31, 2015

Is engine actually not warming up or is the gauge saying it is not warming up?

There are two temp sensing devices located just above thermostat housing on lower intake .
One is a TWO wire ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, this is for the computer only, when temp is cold computer runs Choke mode, rich fuel mix, higher idle and advanced spark timing, O2 sensors are ignored.
As coolant/engine warms up idle will go down and computer will start to use O2 sensors to fine tune fuel mix.

ECT sender is a ONE wire sender used only for the dash board temp gauge.
These look alike but are not the same

Thermostat shouldn't open for 4 to 8 minutes after cold start, this means upper rad hose should stay cold for 4 to 8 minutes until thermostat starts to open and sends warm coolant thru upper hose.
If upper hose is warming up with the engine then thermostat is leaking or stuck open.

TPS(throttle position sensor) check the wiring, 3 wires, make sure connection is good and wires are not loose in connector.

Engine Trouble

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