New to rangers...HELP

Ok new to rangers...had a 1985 2.3l efi ranger given to me been sitting since 2012. I was told motor was no good ..
Well I checked the basics it seemed ok 42psi at fuel rail pumps both working..new filter and a new pressure regulator but no pulse to injectors ...what could be the cause..
I ran wires direct from battery to injectors it started but flooded quickly because injectors ran constantly....so what could cause no pulse to them ?...thanks in advance.

Check for rpm signal from the distributor/ crank sensor

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If you get no pulse, it may be the computer is not turning on. But. If the fuel pump runs for 3-5 seconds when you first turn the key to ON(listen closely for the sound), then the computer is at least 'awake'.
It may be old enough to need a couple capacitors on the computer board replaced. If they rupture(electrolyte can due to age/heat/etc), they won't work and the computer will be confused to say the least.
If the pump does not run, check the rollover switch near the top edge of the passenger side floormat/carpet. Red button will reset. Should have voltage going to pump at key ON for a few seconds... use a test light.
The fuel pump relay is on the inner fender, passenger side, under the black plastic cover. Remove the center of the push-pin retainer, and pull the retainer out, slide the cover off, relay mounted on the side of the innder fender, contacts hanging down. It should click and provide power to fuel pump at key ON.
The distributor has a electronic box mounted, the TFI Thick Film Ignition that sends a signal to the computer that the engine is cranking... must get the signal to turn on the injectors. You can replace w/o removing the distributor, you will need a thin-wall socket of some weird size OR the tool sold at auto parts stores $3-5?. TFI's are not real expensive. The coil should have 12V when you turn the key to ON. The TFI will provide the ground to allow current flow, and energize the coil. When the computer signals, or if a manual, the distributor rotates while being push-started, the ground will go away, and the coil produce a spark. If no 12v check wires & ignition switch.
Check the belt timing by setting crankshaft to TDC, remove the plastic plug on the belt cover behind the upper radiator hose. Look at the edge of the cam sprocket for a triangle. It should line up with the pointer at TDC, or rotate crankshaft a turn, and check again. If not, valve timing will be off. Belts can loose a few teeth and still sort of work, but be out of time.
Check the fusible links on the battery side of the starter relay. They provide power to all the stuff in the truck. If the ring connectors get loose, that particular circuit won't get fed juice as needed. Check that they are all tight. You have to 'fan' them out to allow for them to ALL get seated tightly.
tom

Thanks for replies. I'm going to check all i have power to pumps 42psi at rail.it has started but only after I tried straight wiring the injectors to battery ..so it will start but needs injectors to pulse so not to flood engine.

Be aware that the injectors will have 12V on them when the key is ON.

The other end(not from the battery/ign switch) goes to the computer.

When the computer wants to power the injectors, it provides a ground, or grounds the wire from the injector. That allows current to flow, and power the electromagnet(solenoid/coil) inside, and open the injector.
If you see 12V that is proper. You want to see the pulses on the 'other' side of the injector from the ignition switch side. You can pull a connector and check which side is powered using a VOM or test light to ground. The 'hot' side from the ign will have 12v with the key ON. The cold side will connect to the computer.
If the TPS is dorked, it may be telling the computer it is FLOORED, which may be the 'clear flooded engine' action programmed in. Some have a 'turn off the injectors when the engine is not running and the throttle is floored' to allow only air into the engine in the case where somehow too much fuel got injected and the engine is flooded.
You might disconnect the TPS and see if you get pulses.
Most use a tool called a 'noid light' to check for injector pulses, but you can pull the fuel rail & injectors out of the intake and crank to see if they squirt. Don't use a candle to see the flow... BOOM.
tom